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I just returned from a loop through the Russian Wilderness that included a day on the PCT.  The sheer number of thru hikers on the trail were reminiscent of the first hundred miles of walking north of the Mexican border back in April. While on the PCT, I talked with some three dozen thru hikers about their experience this year. This year, as has been widely reported, the great PCT migration north was interrupted by snow. Most hikers I spoke with left the trail shortly after Kennedy Meadows (Cottonwood Pass or Kearsarge Pass being the most common exits) and rejoined at Donner Summit or Sierra City or Belden (some times Chester or even Castella). Those that crossed Forester Pass noted that the conditions were much more extreme than they were prepared to tackle. Not a single one of these hikers had navigated the full High Sierra.  Several noted that it had been a test to walk more than 10 miles a day given the snow and the need to search for safe water crossings . . . so they didn’t expect many who had persevered to reach Northern California for a while yet.

(Photo credit: Gabi aka ‘Forward’ and Dave aka ‘Aps’ . . . see their blog at www.thirst4adventure.com)

The Russian Wilderness is one of the real gems of Northern California.  For most PCT hikers this 18.5 mile stretch of trail will be a total and pleasant surprise. After a climb up from Carter Meadows Summit (6,160′) the trail crests at about 7,300 feet and quickly emerges into a landscape of glacier-carved granite crags similar to the Sierra Nevada. The PCT hugs the east side of the u-shaped South Russian Creek valley for the next six miles. The trail then continues its transit of the Russian Mountains overlooking the Scott River drainage to the east with Mt. Shasta and Mt. Eddy dominating the further view . . . before dropping down to Etna Summit (5,960′).

(Photo credit: Gabi and Dave . . . www.thirst4adventure.com)

When I first walked this stretch of trail some 18 years earlier, we lingered so long on the stretch high above the South Russian Creek that we ran out of daylight before we rounded the steep canyon wall and could begin looking for a place to jam a tent and three desperate hikers.  The 2014 Whites Fire cleared out the rather impenetrable underbrush and, on this walk, revealed just how steep a slope we had chosen for our bivouac.

This time, we diverted from the PCT to follow a section of the Bigfoot Trail past more of the 20 named lakes in the Wilderness (the PCT really only passes one, Paynes Lake) . . . Syphon Lake, stunning Russian Lake, and tranquil Waterdog Lake.  Perhaps this will be an adventure that will draw thru-hikers back for a closer look on another day.

Back in mid-May, we reported that Tacocat had made it into the High Sierra.  But, deterred by the snow pack, he took a little time off to re-evaluate his plan.  He eventually bounced north 500 miles to Belden where he re-started the trail on May 31st.  It was still no easy walk in the woods (bottom photo . . . climbing out of Belden) but by July 7th he had reached Siskiyou Summit (Callahans).  He reported an abundance of water and, now, heat . . . lots of 80s and 90s.

The top photo is beautiful Marble Mountain.  Center left of the Trinity Alps moving west from Scott Mountain Summit. And, as clear from the center right photo, there is still plenty of snow in the Klamath Mountains.

This is the 400th post on this website. www.pcttrailsidereader.com really is a homage to a trail that I love and believe is as important a national asset as Yellowstone or the Washington Monument.  The PCT represents our commitment as a people to celebrating our beautiful country, to preserving wild spaces, and honoring the diversity of individuals that come together around the trail. We are people of the land.

I have long been attracted to the concept of generativity . . . that is, caring for those things that you value in a way that they will be vibrant and healthy when passed on to future generations. I believe that it is part of the unwritten covenant that all of us accept who walk and love the trail. Look for ways that you can help promote and protect the trail . . . simple acts of trail kindness, assisting with trail maintenance and repair, advocacy for the PCT, supporting the PCTA financially, sharing your PCT stories or images, (the options are nearly infinite).

I feel honored to have posted some wonderful stories from the Pacific Crest Trail, stunning photos and artwork, poetry, and humor from the trail.  Thank you for visiting this site and thank you for loving the Pacific Crest Trail.

Marble Mountain from the PCT by John St. Marie

The name, Marble Mountain, comes from the distinctive coloration caused by light-colored limestone along with black metamorphic rock on some peaks, giving the mountains a marbled appearance. The rock is very porous and friable (crumbling easily).

The wilderness is in the Klamath Mountains geomorphic province (a large area having similar features such as terrain and geology). The horseshoe-shaped Salmon Mountains are at the core of the wilderness with Marble Mountain being a north-trending spur ridge of the Salmons.

The Trinity Alps and the Russian Peak Wilderness of Northern California is home to a lot more granite than most PCT hikers realize.  These stunning views, from the top of Thompson Peak, the highest point in the Trinity Alps at 9,002', look north toward the Marble Mountains. Although this peak is off the PCT, we passed youngsters from Camp Unalayee making the long traverse back toward the PCT west of Scott Mountain Summit (see the August 12th and August 15th posts). Photo credit: Zach Zwerdling

At the age of 18, Robin Grapa's life became very interesting when she was diagnosed with a fatal blood disorder called Aplastic Anemia. She tells me that "it was a scary time in my life but a huge blessing because it taught me to really live as hard as I can every day".  It reinforced the importance of doing the things she loves the most . . . backpacking being among the foremost of those things. "I also love it because after overcoming such an ordeal with my health, I can really prove to myself daily that I'm healthy, strong, and I'm able to use my body to its fullest capacity... simply because I can. I will never take that for granted!"

This spirit comes through in her journal entries.  They are enthusiastic, positive, and filled with a love of life.  We will post some more of Robin's entries in the weeks to come as she completes her thru-hike. You can follow her blog: http://somanymiles.wordpress.com/

By Robin Grapa

Maybe it was because I was by myself, or maybe it would’ve been that scary if I’d had company… but it was the most freaked out I’ve been so far on this trip. I was almost in tears until I talked myself into realizing there wasn’t anything more I could do. I prayed hard, and repeated out loud, “God’s will…” I felt better, more at ease, but it was still scary.

This was before it really even hit. I was already worried... and on a ridge.

It was a mountain thunderstorm, and I felt really exposed even though I was among trees. I watched the clouds roll in across the valley, and the sky get darker and darker. I heard rolling thunder, then the rain started. That quickly changed to hail and I thought about booking it the eight miles to Grider Creek where there was a footbridge. That’s when a stroke of lighning lit up hot pink just past the trees in front of me with an instant “CRACK!” I started to jog for some reason… I was panicking. I was jogging towards where it struck. I saw an opening ahead – a meadow. I didn’t want to be in the open, so I head to my left where there was a huge pine tree. It was the three-fork tree at Buckhorn Spring I read about on my map. I figured it had been there for centuries… hopefully today wasn’t its last… or it was gonna’ be mine, too. The lightning was all around me.

I hunkered down as everything I read about backcountry thunderstorms jumbled around in my head. I was below treeline, so that’s good. I was under a tree, which can be bad, but the hail was nickel size and I needed the shelter. I sat cross-legged on top of my backpack so I wasn’t on the ground, and I’d moved from the puddle I was sitting in. I was soaking wet, full of pine needles and mud, and I was getting chilled. I just sat there squishing everything that was in my pack into the wet ground, holding my sleeping pad over my head to block the hail. Another bolt of fluorescent lightning struck in front of me with a deafening crack. This time I was able to see it branch off near the ground. I just sat, prayed, and told myself I had no control over it, so I may as well try to relax.

Thankfully I’m still here and well, writing about it in my journal. Some of that lightning was just too close, and it’s straight-up scary when there’s nowhere to hide. I thought a lot about fellow hikers Tears and hoped G-bird was still with her. I know I wished I just had someone to talk to while I sat under that tree. I was missing Tears a lot this morning – we’d planned on hiking this section together – so when that storm hit, I was really wishing she was there! I guess in the end, that was a pretty good solo experience to have, but I think it would still be better with company to distract from fear.

Storm moving away as I wade through slushy trails

As I hiked away from that storm, my friend Cuddles came up behind me and we hiked another couple of hours together until we reached our campsite for the day. The rain, thunder and lightning started up again just before camp, but we were much lower in the forest, and I had company, so it wasn’t nearly as scary for round two. But we did haul buns to get here so we could set up our tents before a downpour. Everything I have is either wet or damp, but my sleeping bag and sleep clothes were dry, so I’m comfy and warm. What a day!

So, before the storms…

The morning was tricky, too. The wind shifted overnight, so I was hiking in more smoke than yesterday, and I think it was affecting my ability to climb as efficiently as I’m used to. After a couple of hours I fell back into my rhythm, though, so maybe my sluggish morning was just from a poor sleep.

Smoke blanket hanging in the valley

The hike through Marble Mountain Wilderness was pretty. I know there were some missed views due to smoke, but the rocks were colorful, and there were flowers everywhere. Even the ones that were drying up were vibrantly colored. I hiked through a lot of overgrown shrubs and there is one that smells rank. I questioned if it might just be me that smells, but I concluded that it was indeed a plant. It wad kind of a mix between dog poo and swamp socks… anyone know what plant it I’d that reeks like that? I couldn’t pinpoint which one was to blame.

Super colorful!

I saw some wildlife today… I saw about ten grouse that flew up just feet in front of me and made me gasp and jump about a foot straight up into the air. Dang birds! Then I rounded a corner and nearly stepped on a robin. It flew off straight down the trail frantically as I caught my breath. Next was a tiny, adorable, spotted fawn. It must have been bedded down right along the trail. He jolted up, leapt down the steep hill full of jagged rocks as big as he was, and as he somehow gracefully bolted down that rocky hillside, he loosened a couple rocks and they tumbled down alongside him. I feared he might be crushed, but I think he knew what he was doing. Then I saw a bear! I scared him, too… right up a tree. I didn’t get a great view of him, but I did see him scoot back down the tree then bound downhill and out of view. I guess I need to walk louder. These poor critters!

I bumped into a huge group of really awesome boy scouts today. They were all excited to meet a thru-hiker, and I enjoyed answering all kinds of fun PCT questions for them. They were all in such high spirits – smiling, happy, outgoing – meeting them kept me smiling for a while after I saw them. Thank you for adding so many smiles and excitement my already great day!

Climbing Marble Mountain