some thoughts on the bonavita brewer & flat-bottom auto drip
I havenāt posted here in approximately an eon. I wonāt be posting here unless I have something vaguely interesting to say, perhaps every month or three.Ā Anyway, letās begin...
[next to the previous brewing abomination]
Last holiday, I had a chance to brew coffees on Bonavitaās newer model of auto drip brewer, the bv1900ts alongside a Baratza Encore grinder, since my family had recently picked up the pairing and I was visiting. All in, itās around a $300 setup and one which I previously wouldāve readily recommended readily. (Spoiler: itās still one Iād recommend.)
First, I thought the Encore was pretty excellent. Retention was a mere .1g with single dosing and grounds looked pretty consistent. The grinder responded well to adjustments in size. Build quality is more than adequate for the money, and I have no reason to expect one wouldnāt hold up for at least a few years.
My opinions on the Bonavita were somewhat more mixed. Before I offer any thoughts, let me mention briefly the parameters I used. I brewed several coffees, and the ones which I remembered to note down were a Honduras, Pinona Pacas, from Ritual, and Intelliās Zirikana, Rwanda. For both, I tried a pretty wide range of brew ratios, from 1:15 to 1:17.5; doses, from 30 to 60 grams; and a wide range of grind settings, from bitter-overextracted to sour-underextracted. I had absolutely no trouble getting what seemed to be a good extraction - sweet and clean and pleasant. I could get a syrupy, heavy mouthfeel if I wanted to.Ā
[near-perfect post-extraction bed - better than most Fetcos Iāve seen]
But the flavors tended toward somewhat generically coffee-like. Now while I had tasted both of these coffees as v60 brews in keeping with my slightly-modified Perger technique, I didnāt have my equipment with me in Los Angeles to stage a direct comparison. But the thought that occurred to me was that this well-extracted but not aromaticĀ ādefectā was really reminiscent of what Iād experienced with the Kalita Wave. I used to be a believer in the Wave, and I still donāt think itās a bad brewer, but once I learned to extract properly with my v60, I found the Waveās aromatics lacking in comparison, even if it was more foolproof. In some sense, the two brewers remind me of each other - easy to produce good coffee, but in some sense not disposed to producing really excellent coffee.Ā
Itās perfectly possible that flat-bottom brewers extractĀ ābetterā than cones - more evenly, higher with an equivalent amount of bitterness... but Iām not convinced that the result is necessarily better to my palate. Maybe itās just a technical issue, and certainly I think I have better cups from a well-dialed Fetco than the Bonavita. (For one, the Bonavitaās far less programmable. Also, the Fetcoās dispersion screen achieves a much more even - but not perfect - distribution of water. Why the world lacks an auto drip machine that can distribute water evenly without producing divots in the coffee bed is beyond me.)Ā
As I have said before, I think we may actually be seeking near-perfection and not quite total perfection in our brewing practice. Some small elements of under- and/or over-extraction may produce a really pleasing, complex, aromatic cup. Donāt useĀ ācomplexityā as an excuse to brew sloppily or to skip weighing or refracting anything, but remember than measurements are only useful to the extent that they correlate with ideal taste.