Name: Benisode (紅袖) - Crimson Sleeves
Type: Kosode (小袖)
Time Period: Bunka-Bunsei (1804 - 1829) - Edo Period
Age: 188 - 213 Years Old (Antique)
Condition: Very Good - Some Staining
Material: Silk
Motif(s): Chrysanthemum, Plum Blossom, Bamboo, Plant Stands, Waves
Execution and Technique: Embroidery and Real Gold
Value: $4,000 - $5,000 USD
This is one of those pieces that you’re likely never to see unless you’re in a museum, and I say that lightly. Not only is it incredibly old (that date is very much correct), but it’s special for reasons that I’ll elaborate on later. First up, let’s look at its type. Kosode is usually a very general term referring to kimono that have short sleeves (versus furisode). However, the majority of types that we’re familiar with today didn’t exist back then, so it can only be identified by its sleeves. You may have noticed that the sleeves look very odd too, in that they’re attached to the body of the kimono itself and do not hang separately like modern kimono do. This is an identifier of age as this was a popular way to wear high end kosode during the Edo Period. The silk is actually chirimen (ちりめん), but it’s much thinner by today’s standards as silk was still hand woven back then and machines were not in use yet.
Looking at motifs, we see Chrysanthemums (菊 - Kiku), Plum blossoms (梅 - Ume), and Bamboo (竹 - Take), arranged together in an ikebana style that rests upon ornate Plant Stands (卓 - Taku). Flowing around the stands are Waves (波 - Nami). These motifs are indicative of the new year, specifically the Asian New Year that usually takes place in late January or early February. Seeing as this kimono was once owned by a very wealthy woman it’s not impossible to think that she wore this for a day or two every year.
So, let’s get down to the main reasons why it’s special, besides its age: gold! During the Edo Period (1603 - 1868) there were sumptuary laws that dictated what each class could wear. Only those of the nobility and the samurai class were allowed to wear gold on their kimono. The fun part about this piece is that the small background information that I was given from the seller actually turned out to be more than I could have hoped for. Like most antique kimono not purchased from Japan, this one was brought back by an American G.I. who was in Japan during the American Occupation. The only information I was given was that the G.I. had stayed with a man named Kuni who was from a wealthy samurai family that lived in Mito, Ibaraki Prefecture. Well, a little bit of Google searching later and I found out that the samurai family that lived in Mito was none other than the Mito Clan, who just happen to be one of the three branch families of the Tokugawa. In case you were somehow unaware, the Tokugawa Family were the shogunate that ran the country for the entirety of the Edo Period. Not only that, but the head of the Mito family at the time of the occupation was named Kuniyuki, who also had a son named Kuninari. So, this small sentence of information actually checked out and makes it very likely that this piece did once belong to the prestigious Mito family.
When it comes to condition there’s some staining/fading, likely due to from improper storage on the side (as can be seen in the photograph) and a bit near the collar. However, due to its age this condition is considered very good and it’s very likely that it could be restored by someone who deals in professional restorations. I will not be the one to do this though as I have recently sold this piece to a collector who had purchased the last Edo Period kimono I had put up for sale a few years ago. Even though it’s no longer in my possession it’s a great tool for teaching as it’s something that most people will never get to see.
