#bikecation

Which way to go?

If you’re doing the combined Great Allegheny Passage and C&O Canal trails, you’ll have to decide where to start and where to end up. Because these are rail beds and towpaths, respectively, the trail is relatively flat all around.  Net elevation gain is practically zero, with DC at sea level and Pittsburgh at three-hundred-some feet. Still, the direction makes a difference because:

You have to cross the Eastern Continental Divide. From Pittsburgh to Cumberland, it’s a very gradual constant climb followed by a steep descent once you cross the Divide - woohoo! From there, it’s mostly flat with some rolling hills. Going the other way, you’ll be climbing a steep hill to the Continental Divide, and the rest of the ride to Pittsburgh will be a long gradual descent.

Trail conditions vary. While the GAP is very smooth and well kept, the C&O - cared for by the National Park Service - has a much more rustic character. Services are somewhat more spread out on the C&O, but camping is totally free at the primitive hiker-biker campsites. The free campsites are pretty nice if you don’t mind the taste of iodine-treated water from the provided pump wells. Some might prefer to end their trip on the GAP, with its easier trail conditions, more convenient supply opportunities, and abundance of bed and breakfast lodging.

Amtrak is your friend.

Just this year, Amtrak began offering roll-on bike service. Failing that, you can purchase a box from the ticket counter. Things to be aware of:

Show up early. It took over an hour for an Amtrak employee to emerge with bike boxes. (The roll-on service was sold out.)

Bikes and bags must be checked separately. A friend of ours had told us we could stuff the bike boxes with our panniers and camping gear. Not so - Amtrak are sticklers for putting only bikes in the box.  Also, if you’re using the box, make sure you have tools to remove your pedals and handlebars.  The box is big but narrow.

Bring food for the train. There is a cafe and dining car serving food and beverages, but the food and booze are overpriced and lackluster.  If you want to play by the rules, pack yourself a nice meal, and save your money for drinks.  You might even get away with bringing your own adult beverages if you’re discreet, but it’s not technically allowed.

Check out the observation car. You might be tempted to pay twice as much for a private room and spend your trip in quiet seclusion with a complimentary meal, but the observation car is worth checking out.  The views are specacular, the decor is delightfully retro-modern, and you might even meet some fellow travelers.

Take your time.

Rachel and I planned on 60 miles per day, which seemed pretty doable, but keep in mind you’ll be on gravel. At this mileage, we were riding pretty much all day, pitching the tent at sunset, cooking dinner in the dark, and sleeping 10 hours a night  I found myself wanting to ride a little less and take a little more time to relax at camp.

It’s also worthwhile to do some sightseeing along the trail.  I highly recommend stopping in Ohiopyle and checking out Fallingwater.  Even if you aren’t an architecture or art buff, it’s a pretty amazing experience.  But don’t try to ride your bike to the house - you can catch a ride from an outfitter such as Wilderness Voyageurs.

When you pass through Little Orleans, make sure to stop by Bill’s Place. You’re sure to strike up a conversation with the locals.

Gear

Bike: Most bikes will make the journey, but you want to ride something that will haul your gear and allow you to stay comfortable. My rig was my racked and fendered Trek 520, which performed flawlessly. Rachel rode a Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo that we outfitted with a heavy-duty rack, fenders, and a rigid fork.

As far as tires, I’d recommend something with a bit of tread. You could make the journey with something as narrow as a 28mm, but I’m glad I went with a 700x35 Bontrager Connection Hybrid tire: cheap and effective.

I can’t say enough good things about my 520.  If you need a current production bike to go long distances on everything from smooth asphalt to fire roads, the Trek 520 should be at the top of your list.

Clothing: I’d recommend bringing at least a couple of pairs of padded shorts. I brought 2 pairs, which allowed me to alternate from one day to the next.  Check the weather in advance and make sure you’re prepared for weather 10 degrees colder than forecasted! We expected daytime temperatures in the mid 50s to 60s Fahrenheit all week, but towards the end of the week the temperature dropped significantly.  I just barely had enough clothes to stay warm on the bike.

Shoes: I wore MTB shoes with SPD cleats paired with Shimano A530 touring pedals; Rachel wore stiff-soled hiking shoes and rode flat pedals (Odyssey Twisted PC). Both of us did just fine.  Grant Petersen will disagree with me here, but the important thing is to try and wear something with a stiff sole.  It really helps reduce muscle strain by supporting your foot. I’m not saying you won’t make it if you wear Crocs, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

Cooking: Bring extra fuel, especially if you’ll be preparing hot meals daily. We ran out towards the end and couldn’t make coffee the last day, which was unpleasant. The rest of the week we woke up to hot French press coffee every day, which was fantastic.  Camp coffee is the best coffee in the world.

Lights: You’ll want a good taillight for safety and a headlight that can light up the trail.  Don’t skimp on the headlight - depending on how your day goes, you may get caught after dark, and you’ll have a hard time trying to find your way with anything less than, say, 300 lumens.

Tools: Multi-tool, tire levers, tube, patch kit, spoke wrench.  Don’t forget the spoke wrench. I don’t know if it was the train ride or dropping the bike off a curb, but I had to stop and tighten a loose spoke on the first day.

Baby wipes: If you’re camping, you won’t be taking a shower for a few days. Do not forget these.

Phone: Put it in airplane mode! Unless you bring a dedicated camera, you’ll want your smartphone for snapshots. By keeping it in airplane mode and charging at any wall outlet you can find, you should have enough battery life to take some photos and call in case of emergencies.

Miscellaneous stuff

If you plan on doing this ride, there are some things to be aware of.  It may sound obvious, but:

You will stink, and so will anyone going with you. You will hurt. Depending on the time of year, you will be hot, cold, or both. You will feel like you are going really slow.