#aritar

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আবার যাব আরিতার

শান্তা সিকদার

প্রতিদিনের কাজের ফাঁদে আমরা যখন হাঁসফাঁস করি তখন পুজোর ছুটি আমাদের কাছে একমুঠো খোলা বাতাস। আমিও তার বাইরের নই। বেশ কয়েক বছর ধরে দুর্গাপুজো শেষ করে মা লক্ষ্মীকে ঘরে বেঁধেই সপরিবারে ব্যাগ গুছিয়ে ছুট লাগাই বাইরে। মুঠো ভরা বাতাস বুক ভরে নিয়ে আসি। গতবছর গেলাম এক পাহাড়ি গ্রামে। নামটা খুব মিষ্টি। আরিতার। রাত এগারোটা পনেরো মিনিটে শিয়ালদহ স্টেশন ছেড়ে যখন একটু একটু করে কলকাতাকে টা টা করে চলতে শুরু করল তখন সত্যি বলছি বুকের মাঝে গুড়গুড়ানি ভাবটা একটু বেড়েই গেল। যাক বাবা দুগ্গা দুগ্গা করে বেরিয়ে পড়া গেল তাহলে। সকাল দশটা নাগাদ এনজেপি নামলাম। আগের ব্যবস্থা মতো স্টেশনে হাজির গাড়িচালক। একটু গম্ভীর, কিন্তু মানুষ ভাল। আরিতার নামটা শুনে কিছুই মাথায় আসেনি। জানিও না কিছু। অনেককে জিজ্ঞাসা করেও বিশেষ খবর পাইনি। একটু অচেনা লাগল সকলের কাছে। যাইহোক, এনজেপি থেকে চারঘণ্টার বেশি সময় আঁকাবাঁকা পাহাড়ি পথ আর তিস্তা সুন্দরীকে পাশে নিয়ে এলাম সেই আরিতারে। আর তাকে যখন দেখলাম তখন একটাই কথা মনে এল আহা কি সুন্দর তুমি ! এক পাহাড়ি গ্রাম। দিগন্তবিস্তৃত সবুজ, পাহাড় ঘেরা। অবর্ণনীয় সুন্দর! প্রায় এক বছর হল গেছিলাম ওই পাহাড়ি গ্রামে। কিন্তু আজও তার রূপ-মাধুর্য চোখে লেগে কাজলের মতো। যে-হোটেলে উঠেছিলাম তা ছিল ছোট্ট। গোটা ছ’আটটা রুম হবে হয়তো, কিন্তু খুব সুন্দর জায়গায়। পৌঁছে ভাত পেলাম না। কিন্তু আন্টি যিনি সব দেখাশোনা করেন, দ্রুত বানিয়ে দিলেন চাউমিন, পেট ভরে খেয়ে ফুরফুরে মনে গ্রাম দেখতে বেরোলাম। তবে মাত্র আড়াই পাক। এর বেশি ক্ষমতা আমার কেন আমার চোদ্দো বছরের কন্যারও নেই। পরের দিন ভোরে ঘুম ভেঙে বাইরে এলাম। মনে হল, কেউ যেন কুয়াশার সাদা চাদরে মুড়ে দিয়েছে গ্রামটিকে। টুপটুপ করে ঝরে পড়ছে কুয়াশার জল। মুগ্ধতা নিয়েই শুরু সকাল। তারপর গাড়িতে আরিতার ভ্রমণ। প্রথম গেলাম, আরিতার লেক। বোটিং করলাম। আড্ডা মারলাম। আরো দুটো ভিউ পয়েন্ট সেরে ফিরে এলাম। মাংস-ভাত খেয়ে টানা ঘুম। বিকেলে পাহাড়ে পাড়া বেড়ানো। পরের দিনটাও সকালে রিশিখোলা ঘুরে এসে ঘুম। বিকেলে আবার পাড়া বেড়িয়ে এসে রাতে জলসা। ওই জলসায় নিজেরাই শিল্পী। খাওয়াদাওয়ার পর খোলা ছাদে ক্যাম্প ফায়ার হল। অনেক রাত অব্দি জমাটি আসর হল। আমাদের সঙ্গী ওই হোটেলের সব ছেলেমেয়ে, আন্টি নিজেও। আজও ওই পাহাড়ি মানুষগুলো আমাদের সঙ্গে যোগ রেখে দিয়েছেন। ওঁরা ডাকেন৷ বলি যাব।

যোগাযোগ: অরেঞ্জ কোর্ট রিসর্ট, আরিতার/ কর্মা দাওয়া শেরপা, ফোন- +919933110033

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Please read my previous blog posts of “Along the Old Silk Route” series to connect with the mesmerizing trip to Sikkim.

Along the Old Silk Route #1: Trip Plan

Along the Old Silk Route #2: Romantic Rishikhola

Along the Old Silk Route #3:  A day at Aritar

How to reach Mankhim?

After enjoying the serenity of Aritar, we came to Mankhim. It was only 3 km from Aritar.  As we were making our old silk route trip, we came here from Rishikhola. It was only 18 km distance.  As we reached here after visiting the Aritar town, it took almost 4 hours.  If you plan to stay at Aritar, I’ll suggest staying at Mankhim, the hilltop of Aritar. It offers a great view of Kanchenjunga and the valley.

A simple house in the village.

If you plan for a weekend gateway, you can come here from the nearby Railway Station, NewJalpaiguri (NJP) by hiring a cab. It takes 3-4 hours (approx 126km) and the cost is 3000-3500Rs for a day. The charges of the cab are almost the same if you come from the Bagdogra airport (nearby).

Another way to visit Mankhim and Aritar as well is from Gangtok. There are many travel agents in the Gangtok. You can easily make the old silk route trip by booking a cab at 2500-3500 Rs per day cost. If you look for a package tour to avoid all the hassles of travel, you can go for a recognized online travel agency for organizing the trip.

How to explore Mankhim?

When we reached Mankhim, we saw our homestay was at the uphill where we have to pass away by walk. When I looked on the other side, I saw the cloud wrapped around a beautiful green valley and the bright midday sunlight spreads a golden hue over the valley. Slowly, the cloud disappeared and the valley revealed its hidden treasure.

Misty Valley.

We walk through the distance of about more than 1 km to reach our Homestay. The road is so beautiful that we never felt exhausted to move up. The narrow road that leads to the Mankhim top where the Shiva temple is situated. Both sides of that narrow road were hidden with the colorful cosmos and Rhododendron flowers. Our Homestay was just beneath the Temple and it was a floral stay. The big house was covered with many different colorful flowers.  The cool breeze and the lite mist in the sunny afternoon with the dance of the colorful cosmos flowers were creating so amazing atmosphere that increased my appetite to discover the hidden treasure within it.

The floral Path

The floral path

  A misty Afternoon:

After keeping our luggage in the room, we took our lunch with the rice, dal, potato fry, cabbage curry and Egg curry. The meal was good from the aspect of quality and quantity. The secret of exploring mountain is using the daylight as much as possible. The night is too long and passive in such villages. So, after having lunch, I travel around the village with my camera to know the people and explore the place more intensely.

I saw a primary school, where the children are playing around the campus. When they saw me, they came towards the closed gate of the school and shouted, “Didi, take our pictures, please”. I didn’t miss the chance. As the teacher saw that, she scold little to the children and ordered them to come inside. I showed a thumbs up to them and go forward to the road.

The children of the primary school.

The valley was almost covered with the mist of afternoon. I found out a girl was drying her long hair on the ceiling of her home.  Their house was along the hilltop.  I simply watched over the stairs to gain at that roof and met that Sikkimise girl. She told me that she is a student of a school of Aritar and she walks 8 km, daily, to go to her school.  I saw her Mom was coming home with her two little kids who are also holding two bags which are filled with veggies and milk bottles.  I surprised to see them how they are rising up by coming after such long, narrow and slippery way with such big bags. After spending some time with them, I went for the Umbrella Point.

The girl came from the cloud.

Here, I got a panoramic view of the valley.That time the valley was almost cleared from the mist. But the mountain range around the valley was under the shield of the cloud.

The green valley of Mankhim.

In the local language, Mankhim means Temple. A Shiva temple was placed at the top of the Mankhim. The temple is simple. Merely, the panorama from the temple was mesmerizing.  The top-view of Lampokhri Lake that I posted in my earlier post was taken from this hilltop. In the mountain, the evening comes very fast and the daylight falls in a wink. I didn’t realize when the mist of the afternoon turned into the darkness of the eve. I went down from the temple and came to our Homestay, which was barely under the temple. The canteen of the Homestay arranged the crispy and crunchy chicken Pokora with the ginger tea as the evening snacks.  The temperature was getting lower as the night increases. We took the dinner after some time and went to bed in the hope of watching Kanchenjunga in the morning.

The Sunshine of the Morning:

As the light of the morning came from the windowpane, I woke up and ran outside. The mist still covered the garden and the flowers were looking for the first ray of sun. We missed the sunrise as the cloud masking the whole mountain range. The part of the pick of the Mt. Kanchenjunga was glowing from the mist. That was a nice morning. As the light of the sunshine fallen on the valley, the valley came alive again. The birds were chirping, flowers were dancing and the butterflies were flying in the garden.The people of the village were getting active in their work.

The mist of the morning masked the mountain range of Kanchenjunga.

Our driver, Bhutia, came and said to get ready for the Dzuluk or Zuluk. He said that he has arranged the permit for entering the old silk route ( we gave him all documents and money for the permit). I wished to stay some more days here and enjoy my floral stay.

Where to stay at Mankhim?

There was few homestay at the Mankhim. It’s not easy to find the homestay and book those by online as the Internet connection is poor here.  These are some homestays, which you can book by calling over the phone.

Kanchenjunga Mirror Homestay:

Lalit Rai, an experienced tour operator of East Sikkim/ the Old silk route trip is the owner of this homestay.  Rooms and food are good standards. We resided here for a night. The view of the Lampokhri Lake and Mt. Kanchenjunga from here is awesome. They are a bit professional. We couldn’t find the warmth of the home from here.

Phone: 9775915047/9647142589

     2.Mankhim viewpoint and homestay:

A small, but a beautiful Homestay. I met the Uncle and Aunty (owner) of the home. They are very friendly and their hospitability is amazing. They provide organic vegetables in the food from their garden. Here is also the facility of the campfire and they provide the woods for it in the free of cost.

Phone-7384226792, Whatsapp-9733135528.

Both the Homestays have the facility of organizing a tour or providing the cars for the old silk route trip. The cost of lodging and food are the same and that is 800-900Rs.

Note:

If you are a poet, poetry will come from your heart when you spend a bright, misty morning in this valley. The valley has its own charm. The peace and sweetness of nature make a creative person more creative.  If you can come in a group, you can enjoy the coldness of a passive evening by arranging campfire with the music and songs.  You can also view Rolep, Zuluk and the old silk route from here. But, traveling the old silk route in a day is too hectic for one. I believe the secret of exploring the hidden beauty of the East Sikkim is staying different village and enjoying the village life and nature more closely.

Please stay tuned by subscribing your Email at my Newsletter to get updated with stories and photos of the “Along the old silk route series.”.

Please read my previous blog posts of “Along the Old Silk Route” series to connect with the mesmerizing trip.

Along the Old Silk Route #1: Trip Plan

Along the Old Silk Route #2: Romantic Rishikhola

How to reach Aritar?

After having breakfast at the Rishi River cottage of Rishikhola, we went for Aritar. We reached Aritar by car from Rishikhola. You can also visit Aritar from Siliguri (New Jalpaiguri Railway Station) or Bagdogra airport by hiring a cab. It Charges 3000-3500 INR that is a bit costly for one, who travel solo.

Another way to come in Aritar is from Gangtok (3 hours) or Rongpo (2 hours) by sharing a taxi or hiring a cab.  The charges are almost the same as hiring a cab. But, if you manage to get a seat in the sharing cab, the charges will be decreased double or triple times.

If you book a package for the silk route, you don’t have to think about all those things. The agency will look after all your travel hassles. It is good for the family trip. As Aritar is an offbeat location,  it is quite difficult to cater (hiring and sharing) a cab for Aritar. Even if you manage to get a seat by a sharing taxi or hire a cab from Gangtok or Siliguri by any chance,  you will face a problem in the time of return. Either you have to return on the same day with this car or you have to pay another 3500 buck for returning on the next day. I never suggest anybody visit this place for a few hours because it is not the place to see some visiting places and return to your pavilion.

Note:

If you really want to enjoy the East Sikkim trip or the old Silk route trip, you need to explore it.  The tressure of natural beauty is still hidden.  I mentioned in my first post of this old silk trip, that this trip is, basically, for the passionate traveler or the tourists who love to explore the beauty. If you do not stay there if you do not see the lifestyle and struggle of locals you cannot understand the flavor of the place. And at the end of the day, your conclusion will be like that, “There is nothing to see … a worthless trip.” So, I always suggest staying there for a night and completing the ancient old silk route trip within 3-4 days.

Lampokhari lake or Aritar lake at the time of Sunset.

How to explore Aritar?

1.     Ganesh Temple:

During our journey to Aritar from Rishikhola, we visited a wonderful Ganes temple on the route. The serene view of the lush green forest and the cloud covered mountain, from the hill-top temple, is amazing.  The architecture of the temple and the serenity of its surroundings is mind-blowing.

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2.     Lampokhari lake or Aritar Lake:

This is the old and natural, freshwater lake of East Sikkim.  The lake is placed at 4600 feet altitude from sea level.  It is basically a boot-shaped lake, surrounded by the emerald green forest and the mountain slopes. The rich, green pine forest makes the green algae water of the lake more stunning. The lake offers boating activity by paying an extra buck over the entry fee.

We didn’t go for boating.  My 5 years old son is more interested in feeding the puffed rice to the fishes in the lake than going for the boating activity. The water is so clear that you can see the fishes in the water very clearly.  I also found that except boating there were much more activities around the lake.  I took some photos of the flowers and the locals and collected info about the festival by mingling with them. That was a great time I passed through the local people of Aritar. Their hospitability is so amazing that I never felt that I came here from the outside.

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Aritar hosts the Lampokhari festival in the month of March/April during Ram Navami. This is the biggest festival of Aritar. Local people of surrounded villages and other parts of Sikkim come to perform different programme in traditional dresses. The festival offers cultural shows, flower shows and different cuisine for visitors.

3.     Aritar Gumpa Monastery:

After spending some time at the lake surrounding, we went to the Bhutia Gumpha Monastery.  The beautiful monastery under the solitary lap of nature situated at the highest point of Aritar, on the way to the Mankhim top.

  Aritar Gumpa Monastery.

When I entered the monastery, I heard some Buddhist music comes from the inside. I followed it and came upstairs, where I found a small classroom for the children. After crossing the room, I came to a small room from where the music came. The room e filled up with the children monks who are doing their regular prayer by beating the drum and playing some musical instrument in front of the Buddha’s idol. I stayed there for sometimes and took some photos of them.

I met their Tibetian teacher outside. She is a lady monk. She said the children doing their schooling in the Monastery under the guidance of the senior monks and they are following very hard and strict rules of the Monastery from the dawn to the evening. We all enjoy the tranquil environment of it with a warm interaction with the lady monk of this monastery.

The children monks are performing their prayer.

The Child Monk.

Where to stay?

We preferred to stay at Mankhim instead of Aritar as the homestay at the Mankhim top provides an amazing view of Mt Kanchenjunga. Mankhim is only 3km away from Aritar. There are not so many homestays at Aritar and Mankhim.  The charges for the homestays are almost 800-900Rs per head per day.

Karma Homestay:  Phone: +91 9593386123/+91 9933409513

Kanchanjunga Mirror Homestay:  phone:  9775915047/9647142589

Note:

Mobile connections or signal is not so good here.  Vodafone/ Airtel/Jio internet connection works sometimes.  I’ll suggest don’t bother with your mobile phone/internet connection. Just connect yourself with the essence of nature. You’ll definitely feel fresh after coming back from this nature trip.

Selfie time at the Aritar Lake.

Stay updated with more stories and photos of my old silk route trip.