ANDREW IRVINE

1902-1924

Mountaineer who disappeared on Mount Everest in 1924

            Andrew Irvine was an English mountaineer who took part in the 1924 British Everest Expedition on Mount Everest. Irvine, aged 22, was accompanied by his climbing partner, George Mallory who described Irvine as not being able to hold down a conversation.

            Mount Everest is famous for having the highest peak and being the tallest mountain in the world. Its climbing conditions are challenging and there have been at least 322 people who have died trying to attempt to climb it (the latest victim died in 2023).

            The men made two unsuccessful attempts on the summit in June 1924 and decided to attempt it one last time before heavy snowfall was due. Mallory chose to take the inexperienced Irvine, over a more experienced climber.

On the evening on 6 June the pair made camp and departed on 8 June for the summit. It is unknown whether they did reach the summit before they died. They disappeared on the mountain’s northeast ridge.     

            In 1933, nine years later, their ice axe was discovered and in 1992, a 1924 oxygen cylinder was discovered. George Mallory’s body was discovered lying face down in 1999; there are photographs of his body on Google. His body is still on Mount Everest, with a rope still around his. He most likely died due an accident and his remains are still in good condition due to preservation. Irvine’s body has never been found despite searches.

            Irvine was born in Birkenhead, Cheshire; he excelled in engineering where he could improve anything mechanical. He enjoyed sports and excelled at rowing, at Oxford he joined their Mountaineering Club. He was having a relationship with a married woman and whilst he was on Everest, her husband began divorce proceedings.