#amazonflyfishing

A trip out to the Amazon to sample the power

and beauty of the Peacock Bass

Article first published in Total Flyfisher magazine February 2016 all photographs copyright Pauline Taylor

Peacock Bass are reputed to be the hardest fighting game fish on the planet to take a fly , demonstrating  when hooked the power of a runaway train and Olympian athleticism. That is the motivation for fly fishermen  to travel across the world to the depths of the Rain Forest in Northern Brazil to attempt to hook a specimen. Manaus is the staging post to open up the region and in particular the Agua Boa Amazon Lodge, our chosen destination, situated on the River of the same name, 80 kilometres north of the equator . Peacock Bass are not actually a Bass at all but a Cichla and there are approximately fifteen varieties of this species, all of them of interest to the fly fisherman. Cichla are more familiar in the U.K. seen swimming around in the tropical fish tank with their iridescent colours and characteristic markings. In the Amazon region they thrive and grow to specimens of over 20 pounds with double figure fish being common place.

The Amazon is after all one huge tropical fish tank with the residents either eating or waiting to be eaten. This provides a superb, yet extreme, environment for the fly fisherman endeavouring to imitate a small fish to induce the aggressive takes typical of Peacocks.

The initial challenge to overcome after the journey is the searing heat and constant humidity which dictates the fisherman's apparel and influences the choice of tackle. Exposed skin will not survive without being burned after very short periods no matter what factor of sun cream is applied. Fly fisherman must wear stripping gloves to protect the hands both from the UV rays and from the friction caused by the line from stripping fast and from a fish running after the take. These gloves have long fingers to cover the index and second finger while covering the rest of the hand to the knuckle. My own preference, after some experience, was for more modest protection for my rod hand allowing me to retain better feel for the rod and line while offering cover to my index finger and a small tube of lycra safeguarding my second finger.

The face needs to be covered throughout the heat of the day with a Buff rated high UV protection and of course a suitable hat and Polaroid sunglasses must be worn at all times to stop the risk of damage from the sun and the very large lures which will be continually passing in close proximity. To combat the  inevitable insect bites it is advisable to wear clothing impregnated with repellent or apply copious amounts of deet to keep them at bay especially for the early morning starts and evening conclusions. Footwear needs to be comfortable in the boat and water tolerant as the wading, which is part of the day, is in the same shoes as the river is warm and crystal clear during the Brazilian autumn when we were there.

There are some particularly unsavoury characters swimming about in the Agua Boa but they are easy to see and wading is safe if you keep an eye out. I alternated between a pair of old trainers which I intended to leave behind and a pair of rubber soled open sandals which proved cool and sufficiently supportive, in the river,  the mud and the boat.

The recommended tackle I used comprised a 9 foot 9 weight rod, large arbour reel loaded with a tropical saltwater floating line, Rio Tropical Outbound short weight forward was my preference with a 20 pound 4 foot leader of Hard salt water mono tied direct to the lure. Conventional cold water western fly lines would have been useless in the heat and would have reduced to gum very quickly, similarly normal leaders would not cope with the heat or the huge lures that were the inducement offered.

The Agua Boa Amazon Lodge provides freshwater fishing on over one hundred miles of fishable river where catch and release and barbless hooks are compulsory. The flies which would have some familiarity to those of us who use a fly rod to catch pike are between 4 to 5 inches in length utilising bright coloured feathers, marabou, buck tail, fritz and all sorts of gaudy flash mounted on size 8 plus hooks. The lures are attached to the leader by a knot similar to a Rapala knot which allows maximum mobility for the lure on the stiff mono.

The technique for Peacocks relies on imitating fast moving tropical fish involving getting the lure in  front of the target, with as few false casts as possible and stripping back in many cases as fast as you are able to do so. This procedure would present no problem at all to any fly fisherman who has experienced fast stripping for rainbows on UK reservoirs. A large percentage of the day is spent sight fishing for the Peacocks cruising the river, lagoons or flats which presented a problem as these fish could see me and the boat much easier than I could see them even though I was wearing expensive Polaroid's and they were not. The guides however did not have difficulty at all as they have years of familiarity with directing guests casts by referring to the clock face and they produced takes for me from areas of the river that seemed barren. The instructions utilise basic English and a few well chosen words to achieve the desired result of the 11 o'clock, short or long, wait, strip, fast , stop variety, but very effective. However a miss placed cast, too long or in the wrong position would result in a cloud of mud as a spooked fish I hadn't seen  disappeared not to be seen again. Casting demanded proficiency with the double haul as the distances sometimes required with the large lures cannot be achieved without the technique.

The River has characteristics that made it obvious immediately, should we have needed it, that we were a very long way from home. Wide and slow, much shallower than I had anticipated, with almond or shortbread biscuit beaches on one side and high sheer grey banks on the other cloaked in the contortions and twists of a never ending line of fallen trees.

The first day fishing was conducted casting into these tree trunks and branches where the predator Peacocks were lying in wait. No hesitancy with these fish they hit the lure hard and require an immediate strike, a strip and then another one to set the hook.

 I was never disappointed by the battles which followed these events no matter how large the Peacock that fancied my offering, whether 3 pound to 17  pound plus. Peacocks can break top quality rods with their sheer power and can straighten hooks just as surprisingly.

On subsequent days we fished a rotation of six beats of the river each having different features and were escorted by the guide responsible for that area. We were taken to remote, concealed lakes which involved getting the boat through seemingly impassable creeks and on occasions having to enter the water to push or pull as required, no fly fishing adventure this for the sickly or the unfit.

 Never were we disappointed by the sport enjoyed when the sought location was reached with Peacocks keen to grab the lure and desperately try to avoid the bogagrip which is utilized to land Bass. This mechanism holds the bottom jaw of the fish allowing it to be subdued and unhooked or lifted from the water for an accurate weight to be recorded from the scales in the handle.

This  equipment is also useful to unhook the numerous other species in the river, many of which I found a nuisance, which will take a fly whether they are sort or not and a many have very unpleasant teeth which the Peacock do not . Triora, dog fish, piranha and wolf fish are all prevalent and will take as you lift off presenting a threat to the anglers fingers and in some cases hand or even arm if a bogagrip is not available and a good pair of pliers to unhook .

The risk to the arm comes from the Caiman which will inadvertently take a fly aggressively if one lands within devouring distance of their jaws. I hooked one right in the scissors and he gave a good account of himself before being released by the guide without being removed from the water or suffering any harm.

On occasions the boat was parked necessitating a trek through the rain forest, machete in one hand and fly rod in the other to reach a group of small lakes stuffed with Peacocks where I sat on a fallen tree being hit virtually every other cast by staggeringly hard fighting and beautifully coloured fish.

 Alternatively, was the disclosure deep in the forest of a large lake with another boat tethered  waiting for us to row out and hook into Peacocks upwards of double figures surrounded by the sight and sounds of every conceivable type of tropical bird.

Our party of twelve took the whole lodge to celebrate the 60th birthday of Len Morris an experienced fly fisherman, made up of talented anglers and a number of novices.

 Everyone caught peacocks with 526 being the total haul including all varieties with the largest Peacock weighing in at 19 plus pounds chased by a number of significant double figure fish. The exploits involved in this expedition are what fly fishing memories are made of, but a feint heart and an inability to cope with discomfort while pursuing your quarry or the astonishing rainfall are not compatible with the adventure.

The lodge provides a luxurious sanctuary at the end of the day, with a good sized pool and bar, air conditioning and excellent food and wine, before a good night's sleep as the prelude to the following day back on the river. Thanks to Len and Marybeth Morris and all at Aguaboa Amazon Lodge and Sweetwater Travel