#alejandrocarlin

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Ayer, Alejandro Carlín abrió la temporada en Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Mexico Otoño Invierno 2014. Y el show, hasta para una escéptica del laser cut como yo, no decepcionó.

La paleta de colores fue sencilla, con neutrales (blanco, negro y nude) y púrpura como base. Pero los materiales y los cortes me dejaron fascinada: cueros increíbles (gracias a una alianza con José Sánchez, que hace, también, piezas divinas) y varios tipos de seda con caídas ultrafemeninas.

En cuanto a las siluetas, Carlín optó por combinaciones clásicas, que modernizó con cortes estratégicos. Me fascinó la falda tableada negra con una blusa blanca que lejos de aburrida es súper sexy, gracias a un escote halter/cuello de tortuga inesperado, que se repitió en un vestido beige que es inevitable querer.

Otro de los vestidos más interesantes era una pieza completamente negra, con un corte en la pierna y aplicaciones que formaban el contorno de una camisa, un chaleco y un bow tie deshecho; una invitación muy bien ejecutada al menswear dentro de una colección muy femenina.

Como ya mencioné, por lo general soy una escéptica del laser cut, pero no pude resistirme a las estrellas cortadas en un crop top blanco, combinado con una maxifalda con drapeado ancho. Fueron un detalle caprichoso, sí, pero Carlín consiguió hacerlas funcionar, y sirvieron como balance a la aparente seriedad del show. 

¿La lección más importante del desfile? No temas a los looks monocromáticos, pero el leopard print (que vimos en los zapatos) nunca falla para mantener un poco de interés. 

Puedes ver toda la colección dando click aquí. 

(images via quien)

yes, yes, i know, i feel like i'm constantly introducing new fashion weeks these days, and though it means a lot of work for me and essentially being chained to my computer, it's also very exciting, given how many awesome things we get to look at!  so the latest in line in a very long list is a favourite of opt's--mexico city fashion week!  the event is always replete with colourful creations, and though there are plenty of evening gowns, i also know it pretty well for the avant-y adventurous nature of some of the designers.  anyway, we'll start with a new one, alejandro carlin, whose work we've only seen a single image of in the past; he presented a lovely f/w 2012 range that at once coupled the more formal and romantic aspects of mcfw with something more wearable and day-to-day.

the fall range, says quien, was titled 'seville,' and drew its ideas from the iberian peninsula.  the mbfwmc site went on to more thoroughly explain that (trans.) "This season Alejandro Carlin tells a story of passion, love, tradition and sophistication, this collection is inspired by the work of the dancer and choreographer Cecilia Gomez, her work 'Cayetana, the passion,' Seville and designer's ties with Andalucía. The designer plays with the theme of flamenco, bullfighting, Andalusian traditions and brings the glamour of the catwalk to the sophisticated lifestyle of the contemporary woman. The star of the collection is a mixture of an aristocratic seducer, lover of danger and strength, a daring, independent woman who lives in the contemporary world and enjoys her passions." yeow. 

as we might expect from such a theme, the palette was fairly classic, with lots of bold bull-fighting scarlet throughout; black, white, antique ivory, and nude made up the remainder of the colours.  the mexican site terra reported that the collection's textiles included lace, silk, leather, wool, satin, tulle, and velvet, with swarovski crystals acting as accents to pop the seductive pieces.  they also went on to reflect that colour-blocking (and fabric blocking) and tailoring were important aspects of the range, while (trans.) "(f)olds and pleats gave an air of sophistication to designs." asymmetrical ruffles and drapes played up on the show's drama as well, while the seductive cuts frequently drew the idea to a feminine part of the figure--waist, bust, or legs, say. 

writing that many of the pieces evoked the dancers of spain, the site autos mas estilo said that (trans.) "(t)he evening gowns are the most elegant, with the detail on the fishtails, while the ruffles on the chest and hips were placed with exact proportions." indeed, the more formal dresses were often cut in the popular mermaid silhouette, which hasn't particularly moved me in the past, though i will own that here mr. carlin did it well.  i also liked his cropped trousers, which sat a bit high on the waist and were cut generously through the hips, gradually tapering down the leg to finally cling just above the ankle.  the sheer lace blouses were quite handsome as well, and added a taste of naughtiness to those otherwise smart and proper high-waisted pencil secretary skirts.