#1950ssewingpatterns

Not In Factory Folds, Or The Trouble with Vintage Sewing Patterns

Sometimes vintage sewing patterns are offered for sale in "factory folds" or uncut. So, no one has ever used them. These are your best bets if you are new to using them.

Most patterns are sold used which is fine by me. Except that some are sold without any mention that the seller has checked all the pattern pieces are there. And some are sold with the seller saying they had no idea if all the pieces are there cause they aren't going to check. Buyer beware.

This pattern came in a tattered box at an antique mall. It offered both popular silhouettes of the 1950s: the fit and flared with longer skirt, and the tight, straight skirt, along with a pullover knit blouse with cut-on sleeves. As you can see, the envelope itself was not in the best shape. Pieces of other patterns emptied themselves into the box. So I was making a bet buying this pattern.

Big Blooms Organza Overdress: Inspired by Simplicity 8252

While hunting through my fabrics to make a dress for a wedding, I realized that I had a print and a silk organza that would work perfectly together as a dress and an overdress. Sheer overdresses, along with sheer skirts tied on almost as aprons, show up in the 1950s for evening wear. They allowed for a covered up during an era when the pinched waist of the hourglass and the long skirt were the fashion.

This over-dress was cut differently than the skirt of my dress, Butterick 6582, so I decided to cut my dress’s skirt pattern and simply adding 2 inches total at the side seams, and inch and a half at center front, and an inch in length at the hemline. While I tried to use this Simplicity pattern for the bodice, I realized I wanted flared, set-in sleeves, so I ended up drafting a pattern from a combination of bodices.

In working with silk organza, you definitely want a chalk powder marker, something so light that you can accidentally brush it away. I used the Chakoner which I picked up at the American Sewing Guild marketplace one year, but you can find it online at many places. Do NOT use a chalk pencil as the mark can be too solid and you will spend much time trying to brush it out. You can mark both pieces at the same time, although you may need to add chalking to the bottom piece.

Silk organza is sewn with a dry iron and dry cleaned in order to keep its crispiness. I actually washed this before I realized that was a mistake, but it remained relatively crispy all the same.  Because it is transparent, it has mass but seems to float.