I had the opportunity to travel to India on business. It was an interesting and exciting trip in spite of Air Canada losing my baggage on the way to India and then again when I returned home.
I found some time to take a few pictures early in the morning before work. I also had one Sunday to do some touring around the city of Hyderabad. The people I was working with kindly gave me and Max, one of my colleagues from Kodak, a car and chauffeur for the day.
We spent an hour or two at a Hindu temple which did not permit cameras, cell phones or shoes. It was made entirely of white marble except for a very tall pole that was covered in gold. The temple included some carved panels depicting other religions which included some quotes from the sacred texts of each.
We toured a museum which contained the collection of just one person. The collection was contained in 20 or more rooms with each room devoted to a different subject. One room was filled with collections of toy soldiers that dated back several centuries. The other rooms had collections of various ancient artifacts from clothing to weapons.
The most interesting place for me was Charminar. Completed in 1591, Charminar is Hyderabad's most famous landmark and takes its name from the Mosque of the Four Minarets. Charminar is flanked by arches on all 4 sides, each arch with a main road running through it. Each minaret is almost 50 meters high and the mosque is 20 meters long on each side.
When we reached Charminar we were besieged by beggars as soon as we got out of the car. A little boy came by and chased the beggars away and told us not to give them anything. He asked where I was from. When I told him I came from Canada he said "Canada, hockey!". He asked if I could speak French and we chatted briefly in that language before he switched to Spanish, German, and then Italian. He lost me after the French but he did take the time to teach me how to say "I have no money" in Hindi. He told me his name was John, he was 8 years old, and worked at the market every Sunday selling cheap pearl necklaces. He told me his father had a bad heart and wasn't able to work. He said he had a younger brother who wasn't old enough to work there yet. I thought John wasn't old enough to work anywhere.
John stayed with us the whole time we were in the market at Charminar. I asked him where I could buy a bag so I could carry all the items I bought in India back home with me. He introduced me to a bag seller he knew. I picked out a Samsonite duffel bag and asked how much it cost. The vendor told me 500 rupees, which is about $11. Before I could agree on the price John whispered to me not to pay more than 300 rupees. After a bit of haggling we settled on 300. Once I had the bag in my possession John said it was too bad I wasn't Indian because I could have had it for 100 rupees.
There was one beggar girl who was quite pretty and I wanted to get a picture of her. She followed us around the market and asked me for money almost non-stop. Each time I raised the camera to my eye she turned away. I offered 20 rupees in exchange for a picture but she refused each time I asked. She didn't notice that I was taking pictures of her the whole time. I held the camera up to my chest with one hand and pressed the shutter release with my thumb. I didn't know if any of the shots were worth keeping so I still wanted a picture with her standing still so I could compose it properly. Eventually she figured out I wasn't going to give her anything until I got the picture I wanted. I got a few shots of her looking right at the camera. One of them looks just like one I saw in National Geographic many years ago.
Before we left the market I told John I would like to give him something for helping us. He wouldn't accept my offer of 200 rupees but he did accept 100 for a small pearl necklace. I insisted on giving him something for his kindness and help. He finally agreed to accept some Canadian money as a souvenir. I gave him a Canadian $5 bill. I thought he probably would accept something with a small number on it.
Hyderabad makes Vancouver look like a ghost town. I could not believe the masses of humanity jammed into every part of the city. Officially the population of Hyderabad is 9 million but our hosts told us the area around the city has about 60 million people. The local newspaper that we were working for has a circulation of 11 million and a readership of 44 million. One thing that is very noticeable is the absence of women. The vast majority of people on the street or working in the shops and restaurants are men and boys. I assume the women and girls are working at home.
It is a pity that more women are not visible because they are exceptionally beautiful, especially when wearing the traditional sari. Saris are still the most popular clothing for women with a few of the younger ones wearing jeans. I can't imagine more beautiful, elegant, or feminine attire than a sari. They come in a wide variety of styles, usually in bright colors, often with patterned stitching or brocade. In North America it would be like seeing most of the women wearing evening gowns.
When our work in Hyderabad was done our hosts flew us to Visakhapatnam on the Bay of Bengal to set up another newspaper printing plant. We stayed at a very nice hotel they own called the Dolphin. The hotel takes its name from a local geographical feature called the Dolphin Nose. The city is very similar to Vancouver in size and geography. The population is about 2 million and the city is sandwiched between mountains and the ocean. There is a natural harbour there which is the main reason for the city existing in that location.
Our guide for the trip to Visakhapatnam was Mahender who arranged for us to have a tour of the city including the beach. I made sure to get my feet wet in the Bay of Bengal. There is about 60km of beach along the bay but very little development. The entire length of beach that we saw was mostly deserted. Most of the land beside the beach seems to be used for grazing or not used at all.
I walked around Visakhapatnam every morning taking pictures. The market area is spread over a large area with each street devoted to a different commodity. One street has only coconuts for sale, the next only lemons, another has bamboo, others have wood or fish and several streets have only bananas.
Everywhere you go in India you see the famous sacred cows. In most places they are not very common but in Visakhapatnam I came into close contact with them every morning. On one of the banana streets I had to dodge several of them heading in the opposite direction. I was walking down a narrow path between the piles of bananas when I noticed a set of horns attached to large black beast coming toward me. I was hoping I didn't get snagged on a horn by accident and squeezed myself against a pile of bananas. Luckily I was able to get a couple of shots of the cattle as they passed by. The sacred cows are free to wander wherever they please. I saw them in busy intersections and standing in the middle of a crowd at a bus stop.
I was happy to discover the people of India are as camera friendly as the people in the Philippines. I had many of them ask me to take pictures of them or their friends and I always obliged. The mini-taxi drivers always want me to take pictures. Most people take it as a compliment when I take a picture of them. I took some pictures of a family buying a snack from a street vendor. The father actually stepped back so I could get a better shot of his wife and daughter. In North America people seem to feel taking a picture is an invasion. I have almost given up on photographing people at home unless they are friends or relatives.
I had one last adventure before leaving India. Mohan, one of our gracious hosts, took me and my colleague Max shopping for the third time on the way to the airport. Max and I bought some handicrafts at a store that looked more like an art gallery. Mohan's colleague, Mahender, met us at a sweet shop and bought us some candy to take back and share with the folks back home. After we left the sweet shop Mahender took Max and me to the airport.
Max and I started repacking our bags inside the airport to try and fit all the things we bought into the limited space in our bags. I had to be very careful packing some delicate carvings and jewelry. As we were busy packing a very large military man carrying a machine gun walked up to us. He said "Who is Mr. Peter?" I guessed he meant me and we marched out of the airport together. I was relieved to see Mahender in the crowd, waving a package and saying we left it on the seat of the car. I asked Mahender NOT to send a man with a gun next time.