Splashique

RECIPE: Salted Apple Jam (from The Short Stack Cookbook by Nick Fauchald, Kaitlyn Goalen & the contributors of Short Stack Editions)

This is another great way to use up blemished apples or the spoils from an overly enthusiastic trip to the orchard. It falls somewhere between a jam and a chunky compote. Most apple-based condiments become muddy and brown when you cook them, but this recipe begins with making a caramel, which helps lock in the apples’ color and adds extra depth. This technique works great with other light-fleshed fruit as well, such as pears and peaches. In addition to topping morning toast, the jam can be dressed up as a dessert (spread on toasted brioche and top with vanilla ice cream) or used as a cheese-plate accompaniment.

Makes 2 cups (480 ml)

3 pounds (1.4 kg) apples, such as Granny Smith, Cortland, or Gala (use a mix!)—peeled, cored, and cut into ½ -inch pieces

1 cup (200 g) sugar, divided

1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped

2 cinnamon sticks

1 whole star anise

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Coarse sea salt

In a large bowl, combine the apples, ¼ cup (50 g) of sugar, the vanilla bean and seeds, cinnamon sticks and star anise. Stir until well mixed, then let sit for about 30 minutes; the apples will release some of their juices.

Combine the remaining ¾ cup (150 g) of sugar and ¼ cup (60 ml) of water in a saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until the mixture is a light-amber color (do not let it get too dark), 5 to 8 minutes. Add the apples to the caramel and stir to coat (the caramel will seize up momentarily—this is okay; it will melt back down).

Lower the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally at first, then more frequently as the mixture cooks down. The apples will break down and turn into a chunky applesauce-like texture; the total cooking time will range from 25 to 40 minutes, depending on the size of the pot and the types of apples you’re using.

Stir in the vinegar and a hearty pinch of salt and taste the mixture; it should be pleasantly salty and a little tangy. Adjust with more vinegar and salt as needed. Remove the cinnamon stick, vanilla pod and star anise before transferring the mixture to an airtight container or jar; refrigerate until ready to use, up to 2 weeks.

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