Pretty Easy

Winter is well and truly here so along with digging out my wooly hat I’ve been looking for an alternative to my usual crisp, citrus summer fragrances. I’ve been a fan of L’Occitane’s colognes and EDTs since the Collection de Grasse came out a few years ago, with the Vanille & Narcisse (€62) being one of my favourites - so I was delighted to see that this year they’ve launched two special fragrances in collaboration with Pierre Hermé. 

Nail colour trends have become more and more in tune with fashion over the past few years and this Autumn / Winter there are some definite influences coming through from ’70s disco shades of gold and russet to moody plums and ruby.

Changing up your nail colour to suit the season is the easiest way to stay on trend so today, I’m looking at a few of my favourite shades: 

Vampish, berry shades were seen on countless runway this season but the key trick with this year is to match up your nails with your lipstick, keeping the rest of your make-up minimal to let the dark shades speak for themselves. Some of my favourites include: NARS “Endless Night”, Ciaté “Dangerous Affair” and L’Oreal “Preliminaire”

70s Inspired: Copper and russet have come back into fashion thanks to this season’s key 70s trends. Neutrals are always popular but if you want to really make an impression, pick up a shade that has some hidden depths with a hint of metallic such as ·Revlon Parfumerie Scented Nail Enamel in Autumn Spice, Revlon “Metallic Galaxy” or Maybelline Color Show Crystallize 

Do you remember when Halloween outfits were meant to be scary? Well today I’m looking at some couture inspired looks that are easy to create at home and will be a counterpoint to all those sexy kittens & devils roaming the streets at night! Starting off; Alexander Wang chose to send models down the runway with wet look hair, brushed over the faces, couple with hollowed out eyes for a dramatic effect that smacks of “The Ring”  movies. 

Head make-up artist for Chanel Tom Pecheux also went for dark eyes but this time there was a masculine twist to the look with slicked back hair finishing it off. 

Pastel Pink & Lavender: Seen on models walking the runways for Tibi and Max Mara, pink would normally be seen as a much more summery shade but if you pair it with flushed cheeks and lots of lashes you’ll get more of a fresh, Doll-like effect. Lip glosses are back in a big way this season too with the most popular shades being lavender and pale pink. 

Brick Red: Ruby, Oxblood and Scarlet are often the shades of choice come the winter months but this season earthy, brick red lips were the main focus for designers Naeem Khan and Timo Weiland. Shades I love are NYX Matte lipstick in “Alabama” €9.25 and Charlotte Tilbury K.I.S.S.I.N.G lipstick in “So Marilyn” (€30).

As we move into autumn and the weather begins to change, so to will our colour palette for both clothing and make-up. There’s a good reason why jewel tones make a return each season too, they’re flattering on all skin tones and are an easy way to inject colour into your look without ever straying into Bobo the Clown territory.

Perhaps it’s because of the seasonal connection, but I always associate jewel tones with evenings out, fireside pubs and glasses of red wine, so with all that in mind, I’ve been rooting through my make-up stash to find my edit of the best jewel toned liners and eye shadows out there at the moment:

They’re Real Push Up Eyeliners: A cult classic since being launched a couple of years ago, the black gel liner has some new friends this season and is now available in rich tones of purple, green, brown and blue. Given the general vibe of Benefit, I had assumed these would be really bright but they’re actually very wearable shades that are subtle rather than too out there. (€26)

We see so many beauty products on a daily basis but how often do we stop to think about how they came to be or what their history is? I love learning about the origins of brands and products so the mere fact that a product could survive over 100 years in the cutthroat world of beauty amazes me. So, with that in mind, I've rounded up five of my favourite golden oldies that have stood the test of time and made it past their centenary:

·      Nivea Crème: An old reliable when it comes to giving dry patches the heave ho, Nivea’s all purpose cream was launched in 1911. It was the first product from the brand and initially had an art nouveau style packaging before it was revamped in 1925 to the iconic blue and white we still known today. (€2.09 50ml)

·      Bourjois Little Round Pots: Ever since Alexandre Bourjois first launched his namesake make-up collection in 1863, Bourjois has been known for creating beautiful blusher but it wasn’t until 1914 that the “little round pots" of powder blusher were released. Welcomed as an alternative to the heavy grease paint used in theatre these soon became a firm favourite and even after all this time it seems there’s no stopping them with 1 selling ever 2 minutes in the UK alone.  (€9.99)

·      Labello Lip Balms: One of the first commercial lip balms to hit the German market in 1909, Labello was seen as an especially innovative brand thanks to the practical metal sleeves the balms came in. A metal sleeve might not sound practical now but when you compare it to the usual balm stick wrapped in paper or potted balms people used at the time, you can imagine why it’d seem like such a wonder. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the plastic sleeve & twist up mechanism really came into play and that was when the classic lip balm was joined by a whole host of scents/flavours. (€4-€7)

·      Ponds Cold Cream Cleanser: As a brand, Ponds have actually been around since 1840 when they were primarly known more for the  “medicinal properties” of their ointments and creams which included revitalizing witch hazel promoted to treat bruises, burns and scars. The cult classic Ponds Cold Cream was launched in 1907 along with their Vanishing Cream and is rumoured to have been the inspiration behind Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Cream. (€5.99 50ml)

Graphic liner always makes an appearance in some form or another on the runway but this season there’s been a surge in more inventive, expressive looks thanks to make-up artists such as Val Garland and Dick Page. 

Eudon Choi showcased a polka dot design over lids for a fun, playful finish while scribbles and mini tattoos were seen at Anthony Vaccarello.

Along with graphic liner we also saw shape and form being created with glitter and sequins at shows like Rodarte and Temperley although it wasn’t the child like, innocent kind of sparkle you’d normally associate with glitter - the over all effect was definitely a grown up affair. 

I love a good pencil product, whether it’s for lips, eyes or face – and there are plenty out there to choose from.And when it comes to determining what will end up in my kit bag (or handbag) there are a few different criteria I look for including; softness, durability, blendability (is that a word?) and of course pigment.

Pencils that can deliver on all these fronts are useful for creating a quick smokey eye look, flushed cheeks, or a beautiful crimson lip and are always welcome in my world for on the go top ups, be it on myself or on set with a model or actress.

Kohl eyeliner can really transform your look from day to night in a flash whether worn along the waterline, smoked out from lashes or as an alternative to liquid liner to create a soft, flicked cats eye.

Butter London Wink liners (€18) Lancome Le Crayon Khol (€21) and Estee Lauder Double wear (€21.50) eyeliners are luxury options that all perform well in terms of pigment, softness and longevity of colour but I also have a lot of love for Bourjois Contour Clubbing liners too (€6.69).

Certain eye shapes will find that no matter what they use a little transferring always happens, in that case you can try a sealant over the top of the liner such as Make Up Forever Aqua Seal (€22.50) or alternatively, blend an eye shadow of the same shade in along the lashes to set it for a longer lasting result.

Rock hard lip pencils are a pet hate of mine. Why are they still made? They make it so much harder to create a smooth finish, always dragging and tugging at lips and even then, the colour payoff is rarely good.

Thankfully there are much better, more highly pigmented formulas available these days, which feel and look a whole lot better including Elizabeth Arden Beautiful Colour Precision Glide (€19), Burberry Lip Definer (€19.50), Diego Dalla Palma (€15), Max Factor Color Elixir (€6.99) and of course Rimmel Exaggerate liners (€5.49).

When working with liners I always like to use small strokes, applying colour along the natural line and then, using a small cotton bud or brush, blend from the outside in to create an even base for lipstick or balm to go over.

Jumbo pencils and crayons are the cool kids on the block and seem to have started popping up more and more across both the premium and high street brands. The great thing about these is their versatility, with products such as Nudestix (€33 with SpaceNK) working as a concealer/foundation or Lord & Berry’s lip Crayons (€13.70 with Asos) which can double up as a blusher.

And double ended jumbo pencils such as Maybelline Big Eyes Liner (€7.49) are particularly useful for anyone on the go who wants to freshen up their look as you can use the lighter end to highlight brow bone, inner eyes and cupids bow and then the darker end to define and line eyes.

There's no denying that when done well, sculpting and highlighting can make a huge difference to the shape of anyone’s face, helping to bring out cheek bones, define the jaw line and more besides. The good news is that because of the surge in interest about contouring, palettes have become more popular than ever and where once it was more of a luxury brand item there are now kits and palettes available to suit any budget. I've chosen 3 to focus on as I've been playing around with them on different shoots recently but there are of course, many more fish in the sea so if you've got a recommendation be sure to let me know down in the comments.

Kevyn Aucoin Candlelight & Sculpting Creamy Glow Duo: (€32) Small but mighty, this cream duo is a secret weapon for many make-up artists I know. The contour shade was specially formulated to mimic a natural shadowing on skin and the highlighter is a creamy shade that melts into skin. You can double this up as an eye shadow/highlighter combo as well.

Charlotte Tilbury Filmstar Bronze and Glow: (€65) Glamour is the first word that comes to mind whenever I think of Charlotte Tilbury and that is a theme that’s been followed through in her make-up range, especially with this particular palette. Since the collection launched in 2014, The Filmstar Bronze & Glow has become a hero product and with good reason; it looks great on and is really easy to apply.

I love a challenge and there’s nothing more challenging than being told you’re working on a project that is not allowed any retouching, of any kind. Natural make-up is kind of my bag anyway and I’ve recently been working on quite a lot of shoots where we’ve decided that post production is a no-no. This editorial is probably my favourite of them all. It was published in LA based Edward Magazine this month.  

We were channeling the 1970s on this shoot for iClothing recently out in the Botanic Gardens in Dublin. Floaty dresses, sheer fabrics and prints all feature in the summer collection so make-up & hair was kept soft and minimal with just a hint of colour on the lips and a sheen on skin. 

I put a wave through the hair using my trusty Babyliss wand and then shook out the curls to give a more natural feel rather than anything too “done”. For added texture I used a little texture paste through the ends. 

For glowing skin, I started with RMK make-up base and then used some Chanel Aqualumiere foundation to even out our model’s skin tone. I contoured lightly using Kevyn Aucoin sculpting powder and use the same shade in the socket line of eyes before adding a neutral brown pencil along the lash line. 

For a hint of colour on lips I used a sephora lip pencil in a bright pink and buffed it onto lips starting from the centre and working outwards to the natural lip line to give colour without any hard lines. 

To finish off the look I lightly defined brows using a brow gel and then added mascara on both top and bottom lashes. 

We often hear fashion forecasters talking about the importance of mid-season dressing, and how transitional staples are a must for our wardrobes but it's actually the same for make-up. Take Spring for example; it’s all flushed cheeks and pink lips and then summer comes and the Golden Goddess look is back complete with bronzed skin and a healthy, outdoorsy glow – all well and good, but what about in between?

Now I will say, I’m not a fan of fake tan on myself, but that’s a personal thing. Mainly exacerbated by my mother asking me if I had vitiligo when I was 15, my boyfriend laughing uncontrollably because I was (literally) orange at 18, and then later on, there was an incident where I ended up looking like I had some kind of leprosy on the day I was meant to be going on a first date (aged 23). I’ve learned to embrace the pale and I now favour adding “warmth” to skin when the sun comes out.

Being able to add said warmth is a handy trick to have up your sleeve when it’s mid-season and you aren’t quite ready to rock the bronzed look. The finish is subtle, so won’t be the same as hitting the beach (or bottle) of St Tropez but will give an extra vitality to skin, especially for paler skin tones that worry about looking pasty rather than porcelain.

To warm up liquid foundation, products like Armani Fluid Sheer in Golden Bronze (€45), No 7 Intelligent Colour Bronzer (€13.50) or Stila One Step Illuminator (€31.60) will give your complexion a lovely under glow if applied before, or blended in with, foundation. Alternatively, you can try mixing up different bases to create a customized shade. Be careful when blending consistencies though as this can alter the feel and look of your base completely, and in certain circumstances, cause it to split/separate when on the skin. A small dot of a highly pigmented, liquid concealer usually works best as it will give a lot of colour without changing the original formula too much.

Barely there make-up is a staple on the runways each season and something I get asked to create all the time on editorials and beauty shoots (like the one above!). The real trick to perfecting the look begins before make-up with a little skin prep beforehand so for a smoother base that make-up glides over be sure to cleanse, tone and exfoliate skin. 

For an added glow I always like to add a touch of MAC strobe cream before foundation blending along cheekbones, brow bone, down the bridge of the nose and on the cupids bow to highlight. For perfectly groomed brows you can’t go wrong with Make Up Forever Aqua Brow kits, which come in 7 shades to suit different complexions. Define lips with a nude lip liner, blended from the outer lip line inwards using a cotton bud and then tap on a balm or clear gloss for a subtle sheen.

I often get asked whether primers are worth the hype. If so which ones are worth it; and the best way I’ve found to answer is that they’re a lot like lingerie – find the right one and it can change everything. Whether you’re looking to smooth out fine lines, reduce oil, or brighten skin tone, there are expensive primers, everyday and budget picks as well as all matter of in-betweens that'll bridge the gap between skincare and makeup for a flawless, longer lasting base.

Of course, there are some duds out there too (we won’t mention them!) but I’m sticking to my tried and tested ones below: 

BEST FOR HYDRATION ​RMK Make Up Base: My top pick for an all rounder, the light fluid texture feels like finest silk on your skin and leaves a veil of moisture that foundations just glide over to create a luminous glow.  

BEST CULT CLASSIC: Clarins Beauty Flash Balm -  Worn as a pre-makeup mask or as a primer I love this. Think Spanx, but for your face; Beauty Flash Balm is a cult classic with good reason. Use if you want to smooth, tighten, illuminate and brighten skin for a fresh-faced finish.  

BEST BUDGET BUY: Rimmel Fix & Perfect - Mattifying, illuminating, resurfacing and more besides, this primer offers a whole lot for its price tag making it my high street gem. Perfect for everyday use and for those who have more good skin days than bad. 

BEST COMPLEXION ENHANCING: Stila One Step Illuminate - For lacklustre skin that needs a pick-me-up, this primer is ideal. Three illuminating bronze shades blend together to create a warm base. A great choice for anyone who finds their complexion needs perking up over the winter months.

This video was taken during an editorial shoot I did way back in 2012 with photographer Eilish McCormack. Featured in it are Troy, Dane & Clare from 1st Option Models.  

Known around the world for their minimal, natural makeup, key to French women’s beauty routines lies in their philosophy of skin care first and makeup second. This is one of the reasons why you won’t find many heavy-coverage foundations in French cosmetics collections (although traditionally they do adore a red lip).

Fancy channeling our French friends’ love of soothing skin care and natural, chic makeup? Then get like a Gallic gal with these top tips for getting your ooh la la on… 

1) Take time with your skin care routine, especially when removing makeup. Give your complexion back its glow with Darphin Aromatic Cleanser, for added brownie points include a facial massage while your cleansing to improve circulation and improve removal of toxins. 

2) Banish dehydration and fine lines by re-hydrating your skin throughout the day with a spritz of thermal water - either under or over makeup.  I love the mini spray from Avene Eau Thermale; it's a perfect size for your handbag.  

3) Pare back eye makeup – French girls don’t spend hours getting ready but do spend hours chatting and hanging out with friends so switch out the eyeliner, powder shadows and all the time it takes to blend them perfectly and use fingers to blend a little cream shadow on and then add few coats of Lancome Hypnose mascara for definition. 

4) Master Red Lips; what could be more French than a classic red lip? For me the go-to brand for great red lipstick would be Chanel with my favourite shade Rouge Allure in Passion; although Bourjois Rouge Edition Velvet #1 is an absolute beaut.

Sometimes there’s nothing better than heading to a photo shoot with nothing in particular planned - and that is exactly what happened a couple of weeks ago when I got a call from a photographer friend of mine; Johnny McMillan. He’d organised a test shoot with model Caoimhe (signed to Distinct Model Management) and asked me to look after make-up & hair for the day. As there was no brief to work from or client to please we were able to just please ourselves - popping out for a walk around Dublin and then heading back to the studio for a few shots at the end of the day. Here are some of the results... 

To begin I kept everything very natural, working with Caoimhe’s natural curls and using mainly skin care products to give her complexion a glow, just adding a little tinted lip balm for a hint of colour. Later on in the day I used a green, kohl pencil to create a graphic liner and give the look some added interest.