The crown is composed of a silver frame, lined with gold, and set with 2,200 diamonds, mainly brilliant-cut, with some rose-cut.
The crown has an openwork band, set at the front with a detachable rock crystal replica of the diamond, Cullinan IV, a large cushion-shaped stone, and a frieze of quatrefoils and rosettes, each with a large brilliant in the centre, surrounded by smaller stones, between borders composed of single rows of brilliants.
Above the band are four crosses-pattée and four fleurs-de-lis. The front cross is set with a detachable rock crystal replica of the Koh-i-nûr diamond, the other three crosses are set in the centre with a large diamond each. The eight detachable half-arches each taper towards the top, and terminate in scrolls, and contain six graduated brilliants, between borders of stones. The monde is pavé-set with diamonds and surmounted by another cross with a rock crystal replica of the pear-shaped diamond Cullinan III in the centre. The crown is fitted with a purple velvet cap with an ermine band.
Queen Mary's crown was designed for the coronation of June 1911. The Daily Telegraph described it saying 'It has no jewels but diamonds, and the diamonds cluster together as if they had no support but their own light.' The design was inspired by Queen Alexandra's crown of 1902 which has similarly elegant arches. Queen Mary also wore the crown without its arches as a circlet, in particular for the coronation of her son, King George VI at the coronation in 1937.
At the 1911 coronation the crown contained the three large diamonds - the Koh-i-nûr, and Cullinan III and IV, (also known as the Lesser Stars of Africa) which were later replaced with quartz crystal replicas so that the jewels could be used in alternative settings.
The Koh-i-nûr was moved to the crown of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother, and Cullinan III and IV were set as a brooch. These two stones are part of the famous Cullinan diamond, the largest diamond ever found. The full stone weighed 3,106 carats and was discovered at the Premier Mine near Pretoria in 1905. It was named after the chairman of the mining company, Thomas Cullinan.
In 1907, it was given by government of the Transvaal to Edward VII for his sixty-sixth birthday. The following year it was sent to Asschers of Amsterdam to be cut. The cuts resulted in nine numbered stones known as the Stars of Africa.
The largest of these stones, Cullinan I, was placed in the head of the Sovereign's Sceptre, whilst Cullinan II was set into the Imperial State Crown, although both remained detachable and were worn occasionally by Queen Mary as a brooch.
Queen Mary had Cullinan III, a pear-shaped drop of 94.4 carats, and Cullinan IV, a square-cut stone of 63.6 carats set into her crown, but they were also detachable to be worn hooked together as a brooch (known as the Cullianan Brooch) or occasionally as a pendant to a necklace.
Queen Mary’s Crown was removed from display at the Tower of London for modification work ahead of the Coronation of His Majesty The King and Her Majesty The Queen Consort on Saturday, 6th May 2023. Queen Mary’s Crown was used for the Coronation of The Queen Consort at Westminster Abbey.
Some minor changes and additions were undertaken by the Crown Jeweller, in keeping with the longstanding tradition that the insertion of jewels is unique to the occasion, and reflects the Consort’s individual style.
In addition, four of the Crown’s eight detachable arches will be removed to create a different impression to when the Crown was worn by Queen Mary at the 1911 Coronation.
This is the first time a Queen Consort’s Crown has been re-used since the 18th century, when Queen Caroline, consort of George II, wore Mary of Modena’s crown.
This is a nice homage to Queen Mary, arguably one of the most legendary jewel collectors in royal history.
Queen Mary was a formidable woman in many respects. As consort to King George V, she helped him lead Britain through World War I and its aftermath, and was an invaluable aide and adviser to her husband throughout his 26-year reign.
When he died in 1936, Mary remained a loyal protector of the monarchy for the rest of her life, serving as Queen Mother to King George VI until his own untimely death in 1952, and living long enough to witness her granddaughter Elizabeth's accession to the throne (Mary died in March 1953, just ten weeks before the coronation).
Mary commissioned some of the royal family's most iconic assets, from the Diamond Fringe Tiara worn by three generations of Windsor women on their wedding days, to the emerald choker so beloved by Princess Diana. She had an impeccable eye for Russian jewels and loved an estate sale, which is how she acquired Grand Duchess Vladimir's tiara, and much of the entire sapphire collection of Empress Marie Feodorovna.
The photos show what a wonderful collection she had, along with her equally lovely gowns.