mmg ceramics

General Stuff: - Greenware: unfired pottery. This is when forming, painting, and carving happen. - Carving, Glaze Inlay: glaze in the carving, leaving clay exposed. All glaze inlay will be under the carving tag, but not all carving will be glaze inlay. - Etsy: posts with links to my listings - Event: real-life stuff, such as shows I've sent a pot to and places where I am actively selling - Asks

Greek Pottery: overarching tag for the red and black style pots at any stage. -Underglaze/Underglaze Painting: what I use for the black. Mostly for the Greek-style pieces, but it can be for other things. - Sherd: the broken-looking things - Magnet - Ornament - Jewelry: - Necklace - Earrings

So different clays mature at different temperatures. I use Laguna’s Red B-Mix with Grog, a mid-fire stoneware. I bisque it to Δ05 (1046 °C ish), then glaze fire (but no glaze, generally) to Δ5 (1196 °C). I use Coyote Clay & Color’s black underglaze, which is formulated for mid- to high-fire ceramics, so it doesn’t actually turn black until it hits Δ5. In the photo, the teapot is unfired greenware, and the ornament is bisqueware.

I say I fire them to Δ5, but I kind of under fire them. Flat sherds I fire face down which helps keep the red brighter rather than going brown. I try to protect pots from the elements by shielding them with other pots or kiln furniture. I’ve found some ways to bring out the color of the clay in a way I want, but at a certain point, we’re limited by the clay itself, if we don’t want to use underglaze for that, too.

I do use a clear glaze on the inside of mugs and cups or anything that’s meant to hold liquid (and will on this teapot), but that’s mostly for ease of cleaning, and it’s what people expect from functional, modern pottery. I used to resent it because it looks very different from the outside, but I’ve gotten over it lol. I don’t glaze the whole thing because it turns my clay quite brown, which kind of ruins the vibe of what I’m going for.

I also have this sealant called Liquid Quartz. I put it on the inside of bowls that are decorated in the middle, but given how vitrified the stoneware is, it’s really not necessary on anything else. I do want to mess around with some low fire clay in the future, though, so I’d definitely use it for that.

But ultimately, different clays and different underglazes will look different as they mature. I started off using Amaco’s Jet Black underglaze, but it seemed to darken the red areas around it at Δ5. I’ve made some plant watering spikes out of bisqueware and I used it on those, and it did fine! Point being, trial and error and maybe finding a way to repurpose error. (One note on those plant watering spikes: they molded and mossed and mushroomed. I want to make some more, and I’ll put that Liquid Quartz stuff on the top half to see how it does.) Different underglazes will range from matte to satin without a glossy clear on top, depending on brand and temperature.

And lastly (I mentioned I tend to go long, right?), I’ve recently started sanding my pots with a fine grit sandpaper once they’re done. I used to be averse to it since I didn’t want to mess up the painting, but I’ve gotten better at applying a thick coat, and I mostly do it in the bigger negative spaces. This isn’t really pertinent to your question, but I’ve found it worth it in my process.

I started by slapping a solid ball of clay into a sphere-ish shape with a nub on top (all one piece, no additions). After I let it dry out just a touch, I took a chisel and started making those facets on the surface, going for decoration but also to shape the piece itself. I then very carefully carved into the nub at the top to make the pointy calyx bit. Again, no attachments, just carving away.

After it was allowed to dry a bit more, I took a wire and cut it in half to hollow it out.