Creator's wardrobe essentials
Sometimes, daily wear reflects the way you live your life.
Things that you keep wearing and buying over time become part of your style over the years.
It could be a hat, shoes, a T-shirt, anything.
All you need is one unyielding obsession.
Once you have created a wardrobe that reflects your personal tastes, your unique style awaits.
HIDEAKI SHIKAMA fashion designer
"I went to New York during summer vacation when I was in the second and third years of junior high school. At the time, the Supreme store had just opened, and that's when I first bought it."
Hideaki Shikama of Gypsy Three Orchestra has been a fan of Supreme's classic camp cap since early on. Since his teenage years spent skateboarding, he has been wearing over 70 caps.
"Especially from 2005 until about three years ago, I was collecting intensively. I went to local second-hand shops and thrift stores and just looked for them. Some of them were from my old skating friends. I also have a few items that were given to me by acquaintances who I heard were collecting them."
I have quite a lot of things from the mid-90s. Supreme releases camouflage patterns almost every year, but they change the country and pattern used each year, and even if it's the same pattern, the texture of the fabric changes with the season." He continues to dig up old things as well as new ones. His passion for his collection shows no signs of cooling down.
What are the deciding factors when making a purchase?
“It’s patterns. They are very quick in choosing patterns. A pattern that was completely unpopular can become a trend a year later.
I also sympathize with that kind of good taste.”
Looking at their vast collection, it is true that they are full of patterned items and there are very few plain items.
"We are very confident in the variety of camouflage patterns.
I have quite a lot of things from the mid-90s. Supreme releases camouflage patterns almost every year, but they change the country and pattern used each year, and even if it's the same pattern, the texture of the fabric changes with the season." He continues to dig up old things as well as new ones. His passion for his collection shows no signs of cooling down.
POWELL PERALTA SWEAT SHIRT
TADAYOSHI YONEYAMA, SHUKO YONEYAMA SUNSEA designer
Powell Peralta, founded by legendary skater Stacy Peralta, is a brand that had a huge impact on the skate scene in the 1980s and created an era. Items from that time are still popular in the vintage market today. Sancy focuses on the fashion side of this brand.
"Not only is it a skate culture, but the clothes themselves are also very appealing. The balance of prints, materials, and shapes is just right. All of this has a big influence on the way we make our clothes."
The first thing I bought was a T-shirt I found in a second-hand clothing store in Koenji.
"I don't usually wear T-shirts, and there were a lot of people who collected them.
That's why we were drawn to sweatshirts, which we often wear. It's not just about collecting them, but I think there's meaning in wearing them."
And sweatshirts have a charm that other vintage items don't have.
"Because it's a polyester blend, the color is beautiful and it doesn't wear out easily. Also, I only buy Discus Body raglan sleeves. Even if the raglan sleeves are a little small, they fit my body well."
Also, even though it has the same "Discus body", the heathered gray texture is subtle.
"The ideal deep color can only be found when the tag is vertical. It's hard to find just by looking for the body, and it only comes from Powell Peralta. What's more, it's very difficult to reproduce this color."
"I liked Seditionaries, but this T-shirt had a bigger impact on me."
"Tangtang" designer Masato Tanno said as he showed me a "gram" T-shirt. "gram" is a T-shirt brand created by Itsuo Sugiura, known for being worn by members of The Blue Hearts on stage in the late 1980s. It was not sold at tour merch stores, so the only way to buy it was through mail order directly from the designer.
"I just wanted to wear what Hiroto and Marcy were wearing. I was still in elementary school at the time, and even when I went to a Blue Hearts concert,
I couldn't buy it because it wasn't for sale and I didn't know how to get it."
Tanno was able to acquire the item in the late 1990s when he was attending Bunka Fashion College. The Internet had just started to become popular, and he would visit his friends' houses and regularly check Yahoo! Auctions.
"Not many people were online back then, so it was easier to find them, even though the brand was already inactive."
I currently own 16 of them. This is my favorite one.
He showed me these two photos.
"It has to be Nakahara Chuya and the Yukan Fuji newspaper. I think it's amazing how he completely ignored copyrights. Moreover, he adjusted the print to fit the size of the body, so he only had the large size Hanes. This guy basically only did silkscreen T-shirts, so there's a link to what I'm doing now in some way."
MACCHIARINI MODERN JEWELRY
TOMO YAZANE STABILIZER GNZ designer
"I started buying Maccarini about seven years ago.
A senior colleague of mine who works as a secondhand clothing buyer lives in San Francisco, and his workshop was located close to his house."
So says Tomo Yajitsu of Stabilizer Jeans. Maccarini is a family of jewelry artists that has been in business for three generations, and is known for its modern Art Deco designs. The story of how he found out about the brand is also unique.
"There's a city in Mexico called Taxco that's famous for its engravings, and the inexpensive modern jewelry that was made there in the 1950s seems to be valuable on the second-hand market now.
(laughs) It seems that my senior was mainly buying those products, but when I asked him about it, he told me that the originator's workshop was located nearby."
-Yami was fascinated by the high artistic quality of modern jewelry.
Since then, he has gradually expanded his collection, and now has accessories from three generations of Maccarini. In January of this year, he even purchased a ring made by the first Maccarini, the late Peter Maccarini, at an antique shop in LA.
"The first generation was a leading figure in modern jewelry, and the prices were high. Most of the things he owns belong to the second generation, Daniel.
I basically make them to order in my workshop in San Francisco, but since my style isn't very masculine, I try to be careful when ordering to avoid delicate designs."
Daniel's daughter, Emma, the third generation of the family, recently had a child. Perhaps one day Mr. Yami will be able to get his hands on a piece made by the fourth generation.
Stylist Hideaki Nakakane's encounter with scarves dates back to his high school days, and for over 20 years, they have been an essential part of his style.
"When Shibuya Casual was at its height, I was the only one who dressed like it was from the 1970s. I love the 70s and I think its culture has had a big influence on me. When I look at musicians from that time, they were wearing velour jackets and tattered shirts with scarves around their necks. I used to wear scarves, but if I do that now it looks too formal, so I prefer casual, easy-to-use large stoles."
Nakakane's diverse collection is hung on the wall just inside the entrance, ready to be picked up even when you are about to leave the house.
"I prefer ethnic items to high-end brand items. I'm attracted to items that express the characteristics of the region through colors, patterns, and fabrics, or that reveal the ethnicity of the person, and it's also interesting when the item itself has a story."
Of the many he owns, the one he feels most attached to is the one from Factotum.
"A large cashmere and cotton stole.
When I was participating as a designer, I really wanted to use it for styling, so I begged the designer Udowaki-san to make a product for me. I think I've used it the most to date." Is there anything you pay attention to or are particular about when wrapping a scarf around your neck in a normal way?
"Honestly, I don't really have any particular preferences. I try not to twist the noodles though."
AUGUSTE-PRESENTATION designer
The famous Ray-Ban masterpiece, "WAYFARER". Mr. Tomoya Ohno of AU GUSTE-PRESENTATION became addicted to them after a conversation with an eyeglass craftsman in Sabae City, Fukui Prefecture.
"I've been asked to make them all the time, but apparently the angle of the front of the old WA YFARER is no longer possible to make. When I hear stories like that, as a fan of the TV show Nandemo Kanteidan, it piques my interest. Bob Dylan was also playing them, so I thought I'd try and collect them."
He laughs and says that at first it was just a light-hearted idea, but as he continued collecting he gradually became obsessed with the profound appeal of vintage Ray-Bans.
"The shape is normal, but that angle is still fascinating. I have a model from the 1970s, and the Bausch + Lomb sandpaper engraved on the lens is tilted by 90 degrees, and the construction has changed slightly depending on the era. It's interesting how the value of the same "WAYFARER" can change depending on just one detail."
All of Ohno's collection is "WAYFARER I" "5022". "5022" refers to the size, with a lens width of 50mm and a bridge size of 22mm. They are made in the USA by Bausch & Lomb and have no temple logo. All of them are from the 80s except for one pair, which is a 70s model. At one time he owned nearly 20 pairs.
However, he gave some to a friend at his request.
"I don't want to become a real collector. In the future, when I return to my hometown of Toyama, I want to open a shop and one day sell them there. But since I've decided to keep them for the rest of my life, I'll keep about three of my favorite ones for myself (laughs)."
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