Lori’s London Blog

Well, since I already wrote my synthesis essay over the last two days during the massive heatwave, and since this was essentially the same topic, this will be some of the same ideas and notably shorter.

I basically discussed how, unlike Peter Pan, I’ve grown up over this trip, in the sense that I’ve finally become a world traveler. Obviously I’m already a 41 year old adult, but I’ve never traveled anywhere outside of the eastern coast; I’ve never even been on a plane, longer than a quick 45 minute trip to Atlanta 20 years ago, which I’m not sure even counts. Hopefully this will only be the start of my international travels, but it’s exactly that, the beginning. I stepped out, explored, conquered a few fears, and tried something new. And I applied those lessons to Paris as well, so that’s two new countries for me!

Regarding lessons in London, I’m not sure I would have been able to do what I did in Paris without what we learned first in London. Simple lessons, like how to navigate the Tube and the bus, helped us figure out where to start with public transportation when we reached Paris. The Metro was notably different–the signage much more confusing, the trains not as quick to arrive–but the concept was similar. We also used the bus system. And while we didn’t actually use cash, since most of the locations required contactless, which is also true of London, I still think I’ve learned some lessons regarding monetary systems in other countries. This is definitely one I’ll have to master, though.

I’m not sure I need to explain each or any of these items, as most seem self-explanatory. I may come up with more to add later on.

I would also like to add a small addendum to the bottom of this section commenting on Paris. I’d like to point out that I am proud of myself and my flatmate for accomplishing our weekend trek to Paris; despite the language barrier and the moments of confusion regarding the Metro, we succeeded.

Things I WILL Miss About London

-my flatmates

-the variety of food, specifically from those who have come from areas other than England

-the diversity of the people and the openness of everyone

-the ease of public transportation, particularly the Tube

-the taste of the fruit and the ease of grab n’ go food choices everywhere

-the behaved dogs

-the ability to see shows whenever I’d like

-the history and the beauty of the streets/architecture/areas

-the fact that I’m getting in better shape because of the walking

Things I WILL NOT Miss About London

-not having my kids here

-the lack of AC, specifically on the bus and Tube

-the traffic

-the hurried pace of everything except in the parks

-the lack of coffee without having to go to an actual coffee shop

-the smells of the city, specifically the tar and heated pavements and the metallic smells emanating from the Tube areas

-the constant trash on the streets, Tube, other public areas

-the simple fact that I must wear tennis shoes every day because of the amount of walking

-three hours of unstructured class each morning

What I LIKED About Paris (in comparison to London)

-the food (even the Big Mac at McDonalds was tasty, but the croissants, the beef bourguignon, the creme brulee…all so good)

-the old architecture that overswept the city; compared to London, it seemed as though this city did not bring in as many modern buildings and it made walking the streets more pleasurable

-the unhurried pace along the streets, though this was an issue with the transportation

-the Louvre (magnificent)

-the cleanliness (the trash trucks even ran on the weekends and there were clear bag receptacles everywhere)

-the fact that cafes and restaurants are still open at 11pm-12am with customers crowded along the streets drinking wine and eating full meals

What I DISLIKED About Paris (in comparison to London)

-the constant smoking EVERYWHERE

It’s hard to discuss gender portrayal in ghost stories and legends in London, perhaps because we haven’t heard quite as many ghost stories or legends in this region as we need. When we asked various locals for a local ghost story or legend, we kept getting the same resounding, “not really.”

However, in class, we have briefly discussed Jack the Ripper (at the London Dungeon), who obviously embodies the “extreme guy.” In Haunting Experiences, Goldstein, Grider, and Thomas define the extreme guy as someone who “exaggerates many of the characteristics most stereotypically associated with masculinity, such as toughness and violence” ( 82 ). Jack the Ripper, a serial killer who murdered at least five, and likely many more, working women in the late 1800s in London, demonstrates these traits, especially due to the violence found at each crime scene. He likely murdered these women because they represented ideals OTHER than those in Patmore’s Angel in the House, because they were working women. We also heard about the Vampire of Highgate, though our guide was quick to dispel the myth, claiming it was simply legend and that those who came to seek and kill said vampire were not in their right minds. There hasn’t been much discussion of said vampire, other than he was possibly a gray man in a tall hat (What is The Highgate Vampire).

We did hear one ghost story at Kew Palace regarding Queen Charlotte, but this did not really classify Queen Charlotte as a Deviant Femme. If anything, she might represent the Angel in the House, because she came to live with her ailing husband King George and died there in the house. The ghost story portrays a moving object–Queen Charlotte’s teapot–and possible footsteps. I suppose this could be a genderless presence, or a poltergeist, because the ghost was not seen at that moment and the pot itself was the moving object.

When we visited Kew Gardens, we were lucky enough to happen upon a woman who worked for Kew Palace and who had a couple stories. She was actually from Rhode Island, but she has been living here in London while getting her degree in museum studies. We could barely discern her American accent, and it was only after she had talked for some time that we could tell she isn’t originally from here.

We first met her at the door, but we later encountered her on the second floor of the palace, where we asked her if she knew of any ghost stories or legends. We had just left Queen Charlotte’s bedroom, and there was an interesting aura in that room. After we talked with the worker, we found out that Queen Charlotte had died in the exact chair that was located in that bedroom, and that yes, there had been some odd occurrences in the palace.

She indicated that she had been upstairs, on the second floor, and had heard someone walking in the room above her on the third floor. She radioed for another worker to ask if anyone was working up there. The other worker came up, they both went upstairs, and there was no one there. But she claimed there was definitely someone walking upstairs above her. That same week, there was a teapot in the front room that kept setting off an alarm at 3 am–they have motion sensors throughout the house. Apparently it happened numerous times at the exact same time, and they explained it as “Oh, it’s just Queen Charlotte radioing for her morning tea.”



As we walked through Highgate Cemetery, there were so many broken and decayed graves. It was honestly hard to pick just one that might be the “ghoul gate” as described in Gaiman’s The Graveyard Book. Gaiman writes, “One grave in every graveyard belongs to the graveyard ghouls. Wander any graveyard long enough and you will find it–waterstained and bulging, with cracked or broken stone, scraggly grass or rank weeds about it, and a feeling, when you reach it, of abandonment. It may be colder than the other gravestones, too, and the name on the stone is all too often impossible to read” (Ch. 6). In Highgate, there are over 170,000 people buried in 53,000 graves (Highgate Cemetery). So it isn’t exactly easy to pick just one, especially with the rows and rows of gravestones as well as the deterrents regarding leaving the intended paths. However, we did come across a couple that matched Gaiman’s description: broken stone, weeds, eroded print. One in particular is pictured here.

1. “You're always you, and that don't change, and you're always changing, and there's nothing you can do about it.” (Ch. 8)

2. “Face your life, its pain, its pleasure,” (Ch. 8)

3. “The tongue is the most remarkable. For we use it both to taste out sweet wine and bitter poison, thus also do we utter words both sweet and sour with the same tongue.” (Ch. 7)

4. “In the graveyard, no one ever changed. The little children Bod had played with when he was small were still children; Fortinbras Bartleby, who had once been his best friend, was not four or five years younger than Bod was, and they had less to talk about each time they saw each other; Thackeray Porringer was Bod’s height and age, and seemed to be in much better temper with him;...” (Ch. 7)

I thought this quotation related to Peter Pan, specifically the Lost Boys and Neverland, in that these younger children were never going to grow up. Yes, they are dead, but they also keep their youth, unlike Bod, who has to grow up. Bod is like Wendy, who leaves Neverland, returns to her home and becomes an adult. Bod also has to eventually leave the Graveyard, and he loses the sense of magic he had while he was there.

5. “You're alive, Bod. That means you have infinite potential. You can do anything, make anything, dream anything. If you can change the world, the world will change. Potential. Once you're dead, it's gone. Over. You've made what you've made, dreamed your dream, written your name. You may be buried here, you may even walk. But that potential is finished.” (Ch. 6)

Silas is teaching Bod that he still has a life to live rather than being dead in the graveyard with all the other ghosts. Unlike everyone else, he can still go out and live, with the potential to change the world or live out his dreams. Up until this moment, Bod didn’t realize how different he was from the others in the graveyard, but this pivotal scene makes him realize he wants to leave the graveyard and attend school, so that one day he can get revenge on the man who killed his family.

6. “Fear is contagious. You can catch it.” (Ch. 6)

I can’t help but think of the current pandemic, and how everyone has reacted to it. When the media (or another entity) announces the possibility that something could happen, everyone rushes to panic mode. This is the fear that grows and causes catastrophe.

7. “‘And there are always people who find their lives have become so unsupportable they believe the best thing they could do would be to hasten their transition to another plane of existence.'

'They kill themselves, you mean?' said Bod. [...]

'Indeed.'

'Does it work? Are they happier dead?'

'Sometimes. Mostly, no. It's like the people who believe they'll be happy if they go and live somewhere else, but who learn it doesn't work that way. Wherever you go, you take yourself with you.’” (Ch. 4)

I think this is an interesting way to look at mental illness and suicide, or even the concept of escaping one’s existence. If there is an afterlife, as this book suggests, then this passage explains there was no point in taking one’s life, because the unhappiness won’t end. It reminds me of when people advise me I can only find happiness inside myself, and not in a place, thing or person. If you can’t be happy with yourself, you’ll never be happy. And based on this passage, apparently this is the case even in the afterlife.

8. “One grave in every graveyard belongs to the graveyard ghouls. Wander any graveyard long enough and you will find it–waterstained and bulging, with cracked or broken stone, scraggly grass or rank weeds about it, and a feeling, when you reach it, of abandonment. It may be colder than the other gravestones, too, and the name on the stone is all too often impossible to read.” (Ch. 6)

9. “It is neither fair nor unfair, Nobody Owens. It simply is.” (Ch. 3)

10. “FEAR IS THE WEAPON OF THE SLEER.” (Ch. 2)

Hmm, five to eight learning moments I’ve had that I’ve already written about? That seems a bit repetitive, especially when I’ve already written about some of these ideas several times already (ie: the Tube, monsters, the unnatural vs. the natural). However, I will attempt to come up with some new thoughts based on my current travels.

1. London’s iconic, yet not so terrific, red bus: I definitely romanticized that red bus I wrote about in my first post. That bus is in no way a romantic idea. It may look pretty in pictures, especially against the backdrop of Big Ben or the Tower of London Bridge, but it’s a freaking monster. It’s hot, it’s scary (in the sense that it might strike you down on the street), and it does NOT get you to your needed location in a timely manner unless you are riding it early in the morning or late at night, when the traffic is light.

2. The Tube–what a wondrous and monstrous invention: I never knew that London even had a Tube station or an Underground until reading Neverwhere and then coming to London. And I’m impressed by how complex and efficient this system is, not to mention all the people moving around this system at any given moment. This monstrous train may be scary, but it’s also beautiful, and necessary. The Underground keeps London running, literally.

3. Maybe I am ok with being spoiled in America, even if it’s at the cost of the environment. Ok, when I first arrived, I thought about how great this city was, with its environmentally-friendly electric cars, its wooden take-away utensils, its for-pay take-away bags in every story to encourage shoppers to use their own. But I’m beginning to miss our American luxuries, especially air conditioning. I realize much of our country’s amenities are ruining the environment for our future, but I do love the convenience of AC, of a guaranteed free bag at the grocery store, of a plastic straw that doesn’t melt halfway through my drink, of getting in my car and going. And ice; I miss ice in my water and other drinks.

4. London accepts everyone, from the monstrous to the beauteous, with no judgment, and the two are interchangeable.: If there’s one thing I’ve learned from watching people on the streets, the buses, the Tube, it’s that this city has no specific standard when it comes to beauty or fashion. Anything goes. The only real commonality is footwear, and that appears to be comfort, as this is a walking city. But people are comfortable being themselves, wearing their own style, breaking out into song on the Tube, or dancing after a show. Maybe I’m out of touch with current social media trends, and fashion is following those trends. However, from my perspective, these individuals seem unique.

5. History is everywhere.: This isn’t so much a new revelation as much as just a continual recognition of how much history exists in this country and in this city. Just a visit to Canterbury Cathedral, the British Museum, the British Library, or the Tower of London reveals artifacts from past centuries. Highgate Cemetery houses the tombs of so many who lived here, including the dissenters and those with no actual stones, like the Lost Girls of Highgate. Putting the names of these historical figures and places with actual locations and items is an English or history teacher’s dream. We actually stood in a replica of the Globe Theater. That was a dream finally realized.

6. The Food is worthy.: I thought London’s food would be bland, perhaps based on stories. And honestly, the actual cuisine of London might not be the best. But we’ve primarily eaten cuisine of other cultures: Thai, Indian, Italian, Korean, Lebanese. These other cuisines exist side by side on every street and in every market; the smells are intoxicating. The food is certainly not something to complain about. And our fish and chips experience, in a touristy area near the British Museum but also in an Asian-inspired restaurant, was phenomenal.

We’ve done quite a bit of discussion on monsters the past two weeks, and with the reading of “Monster Theory” and A Monster Calls, I have a different take on the notion of monsters and monstrosity. I suppose I always knew that monsters came from our own ideas, that “the monstrous lurks somewhere in that ambiguous, primal space between fear and attraction” as Cohen mentions (215). But I hadn’t thought of monsters in the various ways Cohen brings up. I had already decided to use his article or pieces when reading Frankenstein and other pieces in my teaching, especially to examine the notion of why monsters were treated as outsiders or why they were created in the first place. It’s true that “monsters are our children” in the sense that we create them, whether through societal, psychological, racial, etc. constraints (216). Monsters reflect a variety of ideas, such as how society treats others and how we deal with issues of our own. For instance, in A Monster Calls, the Yew Tree is a manifestation of Conor’s grief, a “construct and a projection” (Cohen 199). Cohen writes, “The monster can function as an alter ego, as an alluring projection of (an Other) self” (213). We saw this also with Pi in Life of Pi, as he projected his trauma into the story of himself with the tiger Richard Parker; he became the killer Richard Parker in his story, in order to protect himself from the trauma he endured. In Julius Caesar, one could argue that Brutus deals with himself as a monster, and the idea that he betrayed his own conscience in what he thought was for the good of Rome. He (or she in this play) faces himself at the end, when he decides to fall on his own sword.

I’ve struggled with the idea of monsters, today especially. What is a monster, especially if it is a projection of something within ourselves or within society? Susan Schoon Eberly notes that the old term for children with deformities was monster, which comes from monstrum, a Latin word meaning marvelous (228). Does this mean monsters are marvelous? Or that monsters are always children? After all, Cohen writes that monsters are our children (216). Today I couldn’t help but think that I was a monster because I was a terrible parent. Perhaps that is a touch of a paradox (how can you be both child and parent–yet the fact that I feel like I’m an undeserving mother has created the child-like entity of the bad mother monster), and I recognize that the thought comes from my innermost psyche. I left my children at home, and one of those children had to deal with a problem no child should face alone. What kind of a mother leaves her child to face such problems on their own? Obviously a monster. I’m a monster, or at least I certainly feel like one. So is that my projection onto myself? Am I making myself into a monster, causing further pain for myself, for others? In a way, perhaps. I suppose this is due to my upbringing, to social pressure to be a good mother, to the duties placed on a woman, to the comments from my family; but it’s hard not to feel the pain that comes with negligence, which in turn makes one feel monster-like. I can’t help but question myself, my motives, and my overall being; am I a good mother? Or am I just a monster who left my children? Because the latter feels true today.

As I’ve traveled around the city these past couple weeks, I’ve noticed one thing in particular: a lack of convenience for those who have disabilities. This might include those in wheelchairs, those who have hearing issues, those with visual needs, and even those considered neurodiverse. I’m not saying that these people can’t find accommodations in London, but it isn’t a very accessible city in all of its buildings and transportation areas. The Tube does have some stations with wheelchair accommodations, and some of the seating is adequately labeled on the trains, but I have only seen one wheelchair-bound individual and that was on an above-ground train, which is much larger. The lack of ramps and the many stairs make it impossible in most of the Tube stations. The London Zoo has been one of the few places where I’ve seen ramps along with stairs. There are also no ramps leading to downstairs bathrooms in the few bathrooms available, another inconvenience compared to back in the States, where you can readily find public restrooms with ADA-approved stalls and handwashing areas.

With all the noises (screeching trains, honking horns, squealing brakes), moving people, fast transportation, and wafting smells, London is sensory overload. On one trip back from Highgate Cemetery, I noticed a man on the Tube holding his ears while the train screeched. I’m not sure if the noise was bothering him or if he had another issue, but I can’t imagine how these sounds might overwhelm someone who doesn’t deal well with the barrage of senses or someone who needs a bit of extra time to process which bus or which train to take. On another trip, the train stopped after a series of screeches. My best guess is it was delayed due to a train ahead, and the screeches were brakes. But a member of our group started to panic, because she can’t handle being trapped. This poses another issue: how do those with these types of issues and disabilities function in the day-to-day life of London, a city that relies on public transport like the bus and the train? And I think of my friend with MS, who suffers in the heat. I realize London is only hot certain times of the year; however, how would someone like this be able to function on the airless public transportation that the city expects its patrons to use?

During one of our classes last week, Dr. Kitta asked us to think about how the Victorians created order out of chaos. This was particularly in reference to Kew Gardens, but it also applies to other spaces. This seems to be true of many areas in London, where you find green spaces thrown in amongst the busy-ness of the city. For instance, you’ll be walking along the street, with the cars speeding along, horns honking at a stray biker or mis-stepped pedestrian, and then you’ll happen upon a city park full of trees and flowers. There are huge parks, such as Regents Park and Kensington Gardens, walled off and protected from the ‘unnatural’ movements in the city. And people retreat here, with their dogs or blankets, to picnic, rest and rejuvenate. Everyone wants a sense of order in the midst of chaos.

Even in the cemetery you can see evidence of the natural and the unnatural. We went to Highgate Cemetery over the weekend, where we saw evidence of the unnatural–the tombstones themselves–and the natural–the trees, vines, and various elements of nature. Nature is taking over the man-made stones, eroding the marble, returning it to the earth, eradicating the order that man attempted to make. Even among the orderly paths, there is evidence of chaos, because the graves are showing evidence of decay, and the paths themselves are at the mercy of the elements.

Referencing monsters, I can’t help but think of the machines in London: the trains in the Tube, the buses on the streets, the cars and motorcycles, the various pedestrian warning signs placed all over. Yes, our tour guide mentioned an actual monster–the vampire of Highgate, but I think of metaphorical monsters. Anything that disrupts the serenity of nature could be considered a monster in this sense. Just think of the screeching Tube car that rushes through the dark tunnel, devouring whatever is in its path. People are warned to back up as the train approaches and to mind the gap as they step on and off, because there is a danger attached to this machine and its mechanisms. We even watched as the train attempted to eat one of our own classmates and Dr. Banks had to wrestle the doors open to save her; how can this not be a monster? And getting on and off the bus is another quest, as you have to maintain your stability, hold on for dear life, get to the doors in time, and definitely watch out to avoid being smashed by these huge red boxes as they come running down the street. On another occasion, we watched a man get attacked by a motorcycle on Camden Street, and the driver of the motorcycle verbally abused the victim. These machines are all a part of the monstrous, yet beautiful, elements of the city.

Today has been a bit harder than the other days, which were full of excitement and wonder. Granted, the walking has been tough, and especially tough the first couple days, but the excitement trumped the pain. For some reason, the heat compounded with missing my kids made today hit differently. Or maybe it was just that hill we walked up to get to Highgate Cemetery while the sun glared down, and I do mean glared. It doesn’t help that our flat feels about 100 all day thanks to our being on the sun side of the building all day long. But enough of that.

Things I love: it’s London. I love the fast pace of the city, the fact that there’s always something to do, the idea that I’m standing in a city that is built on so much history. I love the little sayings as we enter and exit the Tube; who writes those quaint comments? They really do make a person’s day. I also love the literary elements we see everywhere, as well as the artistic vibe. The city just seems to be alive. And today, as we walked through the park to get to the cemetery, so many families were gathered, setting up picnics and enjoying the weekend. I commented to my group about the diversity, because it just felt so much more inviting than the parks I see at home.

What’s easier: Transportation. I’m still apprehensive at times, but riding the Tube has certainly become easier as the week has gone on. I understand the different lines and the maps, and I understand the etiquette involved in riding the Tube. At this point I get annoyed when people don’t walk on the left or when people talk too loudly on the reasons. I’m beginning to understand more about the buses, and we had to resort to the bus thanks to our primary Tube station being closed this weekend. However, I’d still choose the Tube over the bus any day.

As for challenges, I’d say that working with cash is a bit of an issue for me. I used cash and coins twice today. It’s easy to hand someone a 20 pound note or a 10 pound note (if you have smaller change), but figuring out the coins is a different story. A restaurant owner became impatient with me today as I tried to figure out which coins equaled 62 pence, and he reached over and just took the coins from me. I actually wasn’t taking that long, so I found his behavior a bit rude and impatient, but the coins, with their rubbed off writing, are a bit hard to maneuver for someone who has only been here a week and isn’t used to the currency. I felt like an admonished child. I was thankful for the nicer man–Walter–at the snack truck at Highgate Cemetery; he not only came to my aid when my sugar dropped with his croissant and bananas, but he took the time to wait while I figured out the appropriate change. I plan to focus on this in the coming weeks, because I feel the need to overcome this challenge.

1. Life After Death

“You do not write your life with words...You write it with actions. What you think is not important. It is only important what you do.” (loc 458)

2. The Rest of the First Tale

“There is not always a good guy. Nor is there always a bad one. Most people are somewhere in between.” (loc 157)

3. Life After Death

“The answer is that it does not matter what you think, the monster said, because your mind will contradict itself a hundred times each day. You wanted her to go at the same time you were desperate for me to save her. Your mind will believe comforting lies while also knowing the painful truths that make those lies necessary. And your mind will punish you for believing both.” (loc 456)

4. Could It Be?

“‘Stories don't always have happy endings.’

This stopped him. Because they didn't, did they? That's one thing the monster had definitely taught him. Stories were wild, wild animals and went off in directions you couldn't expect.” (loc 324)

This relates to the ending that Conor doesn’t want to happen; it foreshadows that he isn’t going to get his happy ending. But the monster tree is trying to teach him a lesson.

5. No Tale

“Stories are important, the monster said. They can be more important than anything. If they carry the truth.” (loc 337)

6. The Rest of the First Tale

“The justifications of men who kill should always be heard with skepticism, said the monster.” (loc 154)

7. The Rest of the First Tale

“Many things that are true feel like a cheat. Kingdoms get the princes they deserve, farmers’ daughters die for no reason, and sometimes witches merit saving. Quite often, actually. You’d be surprised.” (loc 157)

8. Understanding

“Because I'm not blind to how Harry works, you know," she said. "A bully with charisma and top marks is still a bully." She sighed, annoyed. "He'll probably end up Prime Minister one day. God help us all.” (loc 178)

9. The Truth

“If you speak the truth, the monster whispered in his ear, you will be able to face whatever comes.” (loc 479)

This quote reminds me of the bible verse, “The truth shall set you free.” In the book, the Monster tells Conor that he can face whatever comes if he just speaks the truth, which is the fact that his mother is dying. He doesn’t want to face this fact, which is why he is having nightmares and why he is seeing the monster in the first place; he is dealing with his grief, his own monster.

10. The Rest of the Second Tale

“Belief is half of all healing.” (loc 266)

I feel like this just relates to the notion of faith as well as self-fulfilling prophecy. Many who believe in a cure will end up feeling the effects of that cure, just as many who believe they are sick will feel sick. What we believe can change how our bodies behave, just because it affects our mental states.

11. The Second Tale

“One hundred and fifty years ago, the monster began, this country had become a place of industry. Factories grew on the landscape like weeds. Trees fell, fields were up-ended, rivers blackened. The sky choked on smoke and ash, and the people did, too, spending their days coughing and itching, their eyes turned forever toward the ground. Villages grew into town, towns into cities. And people began to live on the earth rather than within it.” (loc 246)

This just shows the historical change as well as the change towards the environment: how the population began to abuse said environment instead of coexist. It reminded me of Wordsworth’s poem, “The World is Too Much With Us” as well as many environmentalists of today who are trying to change how people abuse the earth.

12. Yew Trees

“The green things of this world are just wondrous, aren’t they?” his mother went on. “We work so hard to get rid of them when sometimes they’re the very thing that saves us.” (loc 314)

The statue of Peter Pan at Kensington Gardens seems more idyllic, with Peter surrounded by angelic fairies and animals. It is a version of the quotation from the book by Barrie: “‘It was because I heard father and mother…talking about what I was to be when I became a man…I want always to be a little boy and to have fun. So I ran away to Kensington Gardens and lived a long time among the fairies” (Chapter 3). He’s playing on his “heartless pipes” (another reference to Barrie from Chapter 11), something he did quite frequently, and he’s wearing a smock that seems to have leaves bordering the neck and possibly the hemline, though they aren’t quite as detailed as the rest of the piece.

In contrast, the statue of Peter Pan at the Great Ormond Hospital seems creepier, with Peter Pan appearing older and much more intense. His facial expression is definitely filled with more mischief, and he either looks like he’s about to take off from the ground or perhaps blow you a kiss, or maybe fairy dust. His chest is exposed, and the leaves gird his lower half. Tinkerbell, the single fairy, grasps his outstretched finger. If anything, this is the mischievous Peter Pan of Barrie’s novel, the one who battled Hook and led Wendy and her brothers from their home that night. The Peter Pan in Kensington Gardens just seems too innocent and young, but that could be due to facial expressions and attire choices of the artists. I much prefer the darker version, seen below.

The Tube: London’s Greatest Attraction?

I love the Tube. At first it scared me, but at this point, I’ve gotten used to it. I love that no one smiles at me, stops me to talk, or expects me to carry on a conversation. These are all issues I’ve had with people back home, where it’s expected that especially a woman should smile and speak. Everyone is just moving. We all have places to get to, and I completely understand that mentality. There are travelers with suitcases, people headed to or from work or school, people just riding for errands, and more. The other day, we met a group from Florida. But the only reason we talked was probably because we were both tourists. I’ve recently discovered that the one thing that annoys locals about Americans is their tendency to talk on the Tube, which makes sense.

Are there some eccentricities? Of course. This one girl just started singing extremely loudly as soon as she sat down; I’m still not sure of her motives, as she seemed bent on getting the attention of the boy seated across from her. But I love that people are so open and unique, so expressive, so human. The only thing I don’t love is how warm and crowded it can be, but it moves so quickly that this inconvenience seems minor. I also appreciate the fact that no one really stares. Perhaps this is due to the rules? We saw a sign claiming that staring could be considered harassment; if only that were true in the states.

In relation to our reading of Neverwhere, we’ve seen various places that are mentioned in the book: St. Pancras, Earl’s Court, Islington, and more. And we see character types. There is one girl, possibly displaced from her home, who sits at the foot of the stairs in one station between the two track entrances; she definitely reminds me of someone who would be from the Underside in Neverwhere. And then there are the people who walk through the trains themselves, asking for food or spare change. This is interesting, because it seems so normal to those who ride the train. There are also various performers, even one we saw on the street and then later that same evening in the Tube tunnel. The Tube is alive, with smells, sounds, and certainly sights. And each station has its own quirks. Some are nicer than others. At one point, someone said, “We’re home,” when we reached Angel, and we’ve only been here less than a week, but there is something special about this particular station.

Here vs. There: Folklore and Legend a Stone’s Throw Away

It’s probably easy to see differences here in supernatural and folklore compared to home because there is SOOOOO much history in this area. It’s London. It’s the United Kingdom. And yes, while both the UK and the US have been around a long time, the UK has a much deeper history than that of the US.We think of Stonehenge, of the Loch Ness Monster in Scotland, of King Arthur and Camelot. Today we saw a statue of Boudica. I know this isn’t folklore, considering Boudica is an actual historical figure, but this is just another example of how much history exists in this city. Some consider her a folk hero, since there are some unknowns surrounding her story (Pruitt, Who Was Boudica). We also learned about the story behind the Ravens at the Tower of London; Lea, a fellow student, remarked there has to be six ravens on the premises at all times or the kingdom will fall. With all the various historical monuments and buildings within a stone’s throw of each other, it isn’t hard to locate a legend or story.

As we walk down the streets of London, there are references to angels and demons, various mythological statues and figures throughout the city, architectural features, and a plethora of allusionary names on buildings and Tube stations. Dr. Banks mentioned the story behind the church that inspired the tiered wedding cake on our first day here. The unique history behind these buildings, the ancient stories lying beneath these buildings, before they were even built–before the Underground and Tube was even built–have helped inspire the references and other forms of folklore.

Reflection 4: Supernatural v. Natural in London

I am struggling a bit with the notion of the “supernatural” as far as the city goes. I do keep seeing some elements relating to word play or architecture, such as The Demon Barbershop or gargoyles hanging from the buildings. And we are staying in the Angel district. There are also many statues relating to mythology. I also definitely think of the Tube, in relation to our discussion of Neverwhere, and also our visit to the crypt at All Hallows Church when we visited The Tower of London as well as the graves at the chapel in the Tower of London. I’m not sure that I’d term these things “supernatural,” however. I suppose if you believe in monsters, ghosts, superstition, etc, then these ideas hold more relevance. And I see the idea of disturbing the dead. We talked about how many graves there are in this city in class and how much the city has been rebuilt, with layers upon layers. We’ve seen the Tube and the various characters, such as the gap (“Mind the Gap,” as the Hunter tells Mayhew), and we’ve been able to visit these places (Earl’s Court, St. Pancras Station, etc.). I do think our conversations make me more aware, and it would be more interesting to go on the ghost tours and to especially tour the underground areas; I keep wanting to see beyond the dark tunnel, and I find myself looking beyond the windows, trying to see outside the train itself as we pass through. The whole Tube area intrigues me, much more than the bus system. I love watching the people, walking through the tunnels, and looking at the walls to see what is written or published there.

As for natural, I can definitely see a connection with the green spaces, with the parks and the animals. I also love walking out of the tube and feeling that fresh air blowing in my face; it might not be the cleanest smelling at times, but I still love that fresh air. It seems like everyone respects their off time, taking the moment to enjoy the rest, eat their Pret a Manger sandwiches and read a book. They may be rushed in the tube, on the sidewalk, or on the bus, but when in the park, the whole atmosphere changes. Even though this city is built in such a way that there are buildings everywhere and constant movement, there are also beautiful spaces, with flowers hanging from these older structures, parks, and animals. During our time at Kensington Gardens, dogs ran off their leashes yet were strangely obedient. We did notice a dead tree in the middle of Kensington Gardens that gave an aura of something creepy–it almost reminded me of the yew tree in A Monster Calls. And in this way, the supernatural–the haunted tree, the friendly animals that run up for a speck of food and almost speak to you–and the natural seem connected.

1. “For a week or two after Wendy came it was doubtful whether they would be able to keep her, as she was another mouth to feed.” (Chapter 1)

This shows the socioeconomic status of the Darlings and the precarious nature in which a child might place them. They calculated costs for each of their children and could only afford a dog as a nanny.

2. “Mrs. Darling loved to have everything just so, and Mr. Darling had a passion for being exactly like his neighbours.” (Chapter 1)

Even though the Darlings weren’t as rich as their neighbors, they still wanted to keep up appearances, to the point of having a nanny, even if it was a dog.

3. “Occasionally in her travels through her children's minds Mrs. Darling found things she could not understand, and of these quite the most perplexing was the word Peter.” (Chapter 1)

4. “He did not alarm her, for she thought she had seen him before in the faces of many women who have no children. Perhaps he is to be found in the faces of some mothers also.” (Chapter 1)

5. “It is humiliating to have to confess that this conceit of Peter was one of his most fascinating qualities. To put it with brutal frankness, there never was a cockier boy.” (Chapter 3)

6. “‘Wendy,’ he continued, in a voice that no woman has ever yet been able to resist, ‘Wendy, one girl is more use than twenty boys.’” (Chapter 3)

7. “‘It was because I heard father and mother…talking about what I was to be when I became a man…I want always to be a little boy and to have fun. So I ran away to Kensington Gardens and lived a long time among the fairies.” (Chapter 3)

I chose this quote for the simple fact that we had to explore the statue at Kensington, and this passage references this location. The statue here also includes Peter Pan surrounded by fairies and animals.

8. “To die will be an awfully big adventure.” (Chapter 8)

We discussed this in class, the notion that children, and specifically boys, are taught from a young age that it is an honor to go off to war and fight. Boys start off fighting, and the Lost Boys and Peter Pan, with their constant battles against the pirates and the “savages,” are no exception. And the women and girls stay home and perform domestic duties.

9. “Dreams do come true, if only we wish hard enough. You can have anything in life if you will sacrifice everything else for it.”

Children are taught from a young age that they have to work hard and sacrifice in order to achieve their dreams.

10. “There was little sound, and none agreeable save the whir of the ship’s sewing machine at which Smee sat, ever industrious and obliging, the essence of the commonplace, pathetic Smee.” (Chapter 14)

This quote deals with gender roles; men shouldn’t be sewing, which is women’s work. But Smee is looked at as pathetic, because he is sewing.

11. “It is only the gay and innocent and heartless who can fly.” (Chapter 17)

Is this referencing that children are heartless? I do find this idea intriguing.