Yellow House, Valerio Olgiati, 1999, Flims Switzerland.
This is a big one for the smalt boys – post 200 on the site. Foundational reference here, and one we have seen in person.
The last ski trip of the season, around number 10, and it was a slushy March afternoon in Laax. Hell of a day. Culminated in one of us breaking a pin binding clean off the ski, and the other being deemed the God of Snow. After a sweaty and revelrous gondola ride down the mountain, we had some time to kill before the bus brought us to Chur and the train took us back home to Basel. These ski days often involved 6hrs of transit time and 8hrs ski time but we were committed to shred. We came, we shred, and now it was time to take snacks from the shop and wander around Olgiati’s playpen of Flims.
We dropped our gear on the side of the road next to a restaurant where the Swiss were enjoying their apres-ski (unlocked – high trust in these places) and began to hunt for the goods. We were rewarded instantly. 100 meters down the road, in the center of the town (which is more of a layby on an alpine highway) sits this absolute unit of a building.
It stands in stark contrast to everything around it, yet somehow feels like it has been on this mountain since the rock was thrust upwards during the collision of the African and European tectonic plates, 20 million years ago. Those 15 black voids on the streetside façade silently judge everything that passes. It is solid and ominous and completely unique, yet for some reason there is a warmth and genuine soul to the thing. We showed up and realized that Olgiati’s grumpy exterior conceals a deep understanding and (maybe even) care for the people who live here and visit this place.
The building is a cultural center, converted from a home for the town Parish. Valerio’s father Rudolf, an architect himself, offered to donate his collection to the Parish foundation on the condition that it be renovated instead of demolished. Work began after his death and was completed in 2000. The interior is gutted, with a new wood finish over the whole space. The roof was replaced with a new structural shape and slate shingles. Some openings were left, others covered up, and all refinished with cast concrete frames. The entire exterior is painted and finished in a very fine lime wash, blending all the old textured pieces into one whole.
We had 10 minutes until closing so decided to speed-run the interior. We spent most of the time touching the window frames, admiring the weep holes, and whispering, “holy fuck”. There was a temporary exhibition on and the kid at the desk spoke perfect English. He told us he didn’t know anything about the building when we asked.
The inside is rock solid and completely cozy. You could run a boxing match on the top level and sleep on the wood floor on the ground level at the same time. The plan is dead simple and the same on all levels, but at the top you get the special angled column and pitched roof. The structure and enclosure are so locked down and well-executed they can be forgotten, and the architect can start to consider higher aims.
It’s hard to say exactly why this all works together. It weaves together mountain town culture, physical landscape, heritage buildings, religion, material mass, phenomenology, and one man’s brazen disregard for all that bullshit. I still don’t quite believe Olgiati’s non-referential thesis, but the fact that he genuinely tries it every time means that his buildings are the only stable and true reference points I have for pure architectural thought. He’s insane, but he’s useful and maybe a genius.
After we were ushered out of the building, we visited a few other bangers, hopped on the postbus, tried to eat a poke bowl using a popsicle stick and a rolled-up m&ms wrapper, and received a horrified look from a well-intentioned bus seat neighbor.
Happy 200, we still don’t know what good architecture is.