The Fence Blog

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Installing your charger is simple and quick. You’ll need only your electric fence charger itself and a screwdriver. If you are mounting a charger outside you’ll want a post to mount it on. Unless you're using a solar charger you want a bucket to place over the top to protect it from rain and other elements. If you're using an AC charger you'll want to mount it inside if possible. Make sure that the charger is within range of the AC outlet and can easily be plugged in. Locate or create a hole which insulated wire can be run through to reach your fence. Do not use doors, windows or anywhere else that the wire may become worn or damaged.

If using a battery-powered charger you will mount it next to the fence. If no barn or structure is available to mount it on then use a post. Make sure your battery are fully charged before putting it into your charger. It's a good idea to find out how long your battery will last and create a schedule for recharging and swapping out your batteries.

Once mounted set up a small wooden enclosure around it or place a bucket over the top of it. Make sure to cut a vent in the bucket to avoid extreme temperatures. The charges are usually built to resist the weather, but protection like this will increase its longevity.

We are going to cover the following electric fence posts: step-in posts, fiberglass posts, T-posts, and U-posts. Other posts which can be used are round metal posts like the type in chain link fence and wood posts. Step-in posts are far and away the easiest post to install. You simply put the post in the desired place and step it into the ground. Step-in posts are not very strong and generally should not be used for corners or gates. The only time they may be used as corners is for an extremely portable applications such as bringing horses to horse shows or hikers keeping bears away from their tents.

Step-in posts require no insulators because they are already built in. To support the corners of the temporary enclosure tie some twine to the top of the post and run it down to a peg at a forty five degree angle. Ideally you should use two pegs per corner as depicted in the diagram below.

Fiberglass posts come in a variety of different sizes. The thin 3/8 inch posts are the most convenient and easiest to drive in. Use a wood block to prevent the fiberglass from splintering at the end. These posts should not be used as corners or ends unless the animals you are dealing with are very small.

These thicker half-inch posts are used for spanning longer distances and for dealing with pressure from larger animals. Insert them at least a foot into the ground or deep enough that they do not budge when knocked into.

The thick diameter fiberglass posts are for high tensile fences, permanent large animal enclosures or those expecting heavy impact upon their fence. They are also used as line bosses to give extra bracing to smaller posts. When using these large posts be sure that your insulators will fit the post’s diameter.

U-posts and T-posts serve similar functions and are both usually made from galvanized steel. They get their name from the shape they make when they are seen from a bird's eye view. These are primarily used as corner and end posts to providing good support for a run of fiberglass posts.

Before driving them in you may want to put a piece of thin tape at your desired insertion depth. This way you know when your post is fully driven in without continually having to measure it. They can be hammered into the ground directly or using a piece of wood to protect the top from warping out. T-posts and U-posts can come in a variety of different sizes so make sure your chosen insulator will be able to fit the size post you have. All of our T-post insulators fit onto posts weighing 1.25 to 1.33 lbs per foot. Our U-post insulators fit onto posts measuring from 1.75 to 2.125 inches wide.

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There are a lot of types of deer fence insulators out there and it can be confusing as to which one fits your situation properly. We cannot demonstrate how to use every type of insulator, but what we can offer is a guide to the selection criteria, and a way to find the right insulator for you.

An important first distinction is to calculate how many corner insulators you will need. Corners require their own type of insulators and regular line post insulators will not work properly. The exception to this rule is for a small garden fence which can use regular insulators. If you're using a round conductor such as wire, polywire or polyrope you will use a double u-channel insulator. It attaches around just about any type of post and creates a corner on the inside of the enclosure.

If you're using polytape you'll use tensioners at your corners. This will help keep your fence tight and give it an elegant appearance. You'll need specialty insulators for your ends as well as you corners. If you're using a round conductor the double u-channel can do this as well. If you're using polytape then you should use a specialty end insulator show in the photo below.

If you have step-in posts they have built-in insulators and do not require an additional attachment, but for other posts select an insulator which will attach to your post type. Final posts are screwed into or hugged around the back. Fiberglass posts can be screwed onto or snapped onto. Wood posts and trees are usually screwed into or nailed into. T-posts and U-posts have specially designed insulators which fit over their top and slide down. Chain linked posts or pipes can be clamped onto and mesh garden fencing can be pinched.

There are numerous types of conductors, so keep in mind which one you're using in your project. We will cover where to start stringing and how to splice together, how to tighten and terminate a conductor.

Regardless of your conductor type, it’s always best to start at a gate post or an end post. Wire or polywire can be simply tied off on your insulator. However, we only recommend doing this when setting up a small fence and keeping out small animals. If a large animal collides with such a fence it will likely tear off the insulator or break the wire. For more substantial fences we recommend using a proper end insulator and making either a high tensile knot for the metal wire or a substantial sailor’s knot for the polywire. To anchor polyrope properly you need to use a legitimate end insulator. Run the rope through the insulator and back on itself. Put a clamp down on its to make sure that is secure and provides a good anchor point for the fence.

Polytape also needs a special end insulator in order to be anchored. These insulators typically have a buckle built right into them, which makes terminating them simpler and does not need the use of a clamp.

Now that your run is anchored begin stringing your conductor along the line posts. As you string your conductor make sure no plants are making contact. A few weeds on the fence is all that's needed to drain the charge completely into the ground. It is important to mow or weed wack frequently so that this does not create a problem.

As you string up your conducted you may run into a situation where you need to join together two pieces of conductor. This is called splicing and it works a little bit differently for each scenario. Wire can be tied into a knot without the use of additional gear. This can be done the number of ways.

Two strands of polywire can be tied together in a traditional rope like fashion without the assistance of any other gear. Runs of polyrope can be spliced together using the same type of clamp that we used to start our run and create our anchor point. Polytape uses a buckle for splicing. These buckles can come in a variety of shapes, sizes and models. However all of them serve the same purpose which is joining together two runs of polytape.

When stringing your conductor you want to keep it straight and pulled relatively tight. This will improve the look of the fence and prevent your wires from contacting undesirable objects. Metal wire can be tightened using a daisy wheel. But be carefully you don’t want to put too much stress on your line because it can cause you corners to bend inwards.

Polywire can be tightened using a line tightener. Polyrole can be tightened at the clamp which you used to start or end your run of conductor. Polytape can be tensioned at its corner or end tensioner. If you’re using half-inch polytape you can use a line-tightening device.

Gate arrangements can vary quite dramatically, so we have divided his video into two sections. First, how to electrify an existing gate when you already have a fence setup. And second, how to create a gate for a new stand-alone electric fence.

Electrifying an existing fence is done to prevent animals from climbing, leaning and chewing on your fence. It's usually done by running a single strand of metal wire or poly wire where you expect the animal to make contact with the fence. If an animal is fully clearing the fence then this set up will not work because the animal must be grounded.

The first step to electrifying the gate is to put insulators on either side of the gate door. Then string a run of conductor between these insulators. If you have a two leaf gate be sure to treat each leaf independently and not connect them together. Next cut a short length of insulated wire to span the hinge. It should be about a foot long and have the insulation shaved off on both ends. Connect the wire to the conductor on the gate door as well as the conductor on the other side of the hinge. Connect it using split bolt clamps or whatever other clamp type is appropriate for your conductor. Make sure that there is enough slack in the wire so the door can be open to its fullest extent. When making these connections use only specialized insulated wire. Regular house current cords are not designed to hold high voltage and the charge will escape.

If this is the only gate and your electrical current runs all the way around to the far gate post then you are finished. However, if you have multiple gates or gaps in your fence you need to carry the charge to the other side of the gate. This is done by running insulated wire down the gate post, into the ground, under the gate, up the other gate post and attached to the conductor on the other side.

You may wish to protect this insulated wire from foot traffic by either staking it down or burying it inside a piece of PVC piping. And with that, your gate is now permanently electrified even when the gate door is open.

To create a gate for a new standalone fence you have numerous options. If you're using a round conductor we recommend using pin lock style insulators for your gate posts. These along with other useful gate attachment gear can be purchased as a small gate kit which will attach to either wood posts or T-posts.

First attach the metal connection plates onto both posts by sticking the pin lock through the middle hole and locking it in. Then attach a round conductor and terminate it on the holes furthest from your gate. If you're using polyrope you should use a clamp to secure it. This gate is now set up to have a handle put onto it. We’ll go over how to put on a handle on it in a minute, but first let's see how someone with polytape would set of their gate posts.

Corner tensioners easily double as handle attachment points. Just attach the tensioner to the gate post and run your polytape on the outside buckles. Your gate posts are now set up to get handles. If your gate is wider than eight feet you'll want to use this specialty gate handle which expands. These include a slinky style spring gate (not recommended for horses because it can pinch them), the elastic bungee cord style gate, and a retractable polytape style gate to match a polytape fence.

Attach the back end of the expandable handle to the gate post. This can attach either to the small gate kit or clamp directly to the post itself. Expand the gate handle and hook it onto the anchor point on the other gate post. Repeat this process with each run of conductor. If your gate is smaller than eight feet wide you can use a regular gate handle and use a piece of your own conductor to span the gap.

Cut a length of the conductor which is the width of the gate. Attach one end to the back of the handle. If using polyrope or polytape you will need a clamp or connector plate to do this. Some handles include these clamps as a built in attachment.

Now attach the other end of the conductor to your gate post. Make sure to adjust it to the proper length so it will look attractive when it is hooked on. Some gate handles have a spring mechanism built-in so that the gate will fit snugly.

Setting up a grounding system is the easiest part of your fence set up. If you have a small fence and a two foot ground rod you can just stick it into the ground with your hands. It should be near the fence and near the charger if possible.

If you have a more sizable fence and a full-length six-foot ground rod you will need to hammer into the ground. Try to put it in an area which is centralized so that the charge needn't travel a long distance under the ground to reach it. If you are concerned that your ground may be too dry, sandy, frozen, or made of asphalt or any other grounding issue please see the video titled Additional Grounding for more sophisticated grounding options.

For now we will assume that your soil is moist and can carry a good charge. So now that your ground rod is fully into the ground cut a length of wire long enough to reach from the ground rod to the charger. This wire can be bare metal, insulated or even polywire.

Connecting your fence. At this point your charger is in place, your fence is standing, and your grounding system is in place. All that's left now is to electrify it. We start at the charger where the electricity is generated. Attach some insulated wire to the positive terminal. Run it out to the nearest place on your fence and attach it to one of your conductors.

If you're using an AC charger you may need to run it through a wall or string it a long distance. If you're using polyrope or polytape you’ll need a clamp to attach the wire to it properly. Once attached you need to spread the charge between all runs of conductor.

If you get a bad reading on electric fence tester you will have to troubleshoot the fence. Trouble shooting should begin at the charger. Start by removing the wires from both terminals then use your tester to complete a circuit across the positive and negative terminals. This reading will help you to determine whether your problem lies in your charger or elsewhere.

If the charger gets no reading make sure its batteries are charged or that it’s been in the sun for at least forty eight hours. Many charges click as they send out pulses. Some have gauges. If the light is not going on or a gauge is inactive then you should check the warranty on your charger and contact its holder. If your charger gets a good reading you know that the problem is in your fence or your grounding system.

Test the grounding system by creating a circuit directly into the ground. Attach the negative terminal on the charger to the ground rod but leave the positive terminal open. Now test the grounding by spanning the gap between the positive terminal and the soil. If the difference between the earlier reading is drastic then you have a grounding problem.

If so, then the first place you should check is your ground rod. Make sure the wire is firmly fastened onto the ground rod with a clamp or tightener. If you still get a low reading then your ground may be too dry, frozen or sandy for your grounding system. Please watch the video on additional grounding to see what other options you have. If the reading from your grounding system is good then you know that the problem lies with you fence.

Do a walk around and check for plants touching the conductor. Check for broken or loose conductor which may be grounding out the fence. If the line is clear then check your connections. Start with where you attach your charger and check every connection. These are usually in places where you spread the charge or went under gates. Connections should be firm especially at gate handles which could be a weakness.

So, you've determined that your earth is unsuitable for a standard grounding system. Luckily we have suggestions for an assortment of grounding problems. Let's divide this video into two parts. First we will cover moderate grounding problems. This is for areas with some sandiness or moderate droughts. Second we will cover how to get grounding in areas where using the soil is out of the question. This includes when the earth is frozen or is made up of solid bedrock.

To boost an earth-based grounding system you can add a ground rod and link it to the existing rod with wire. Alternatively you can bury a wire along the length of the fence. Connect this wire firmly to your ground rod. You can even do both of these setups at once because there is no drawback to a larger grounding system. Sometimes the ground rods and wire will corrode overtime and not conduct as well as they used to. So at some point you may need to add a new rod to your grounding system.

If using the earth is out of the question you still have options. You can lay down a length of metal mesh fencing and connect it to the grounding system. If an animal stands on it and touches a wire simultaneously then it will receive a shock. This is a good system for covering sections of walkways which may be paved or stone.

If you are dealing with frozen ground and snow on top then this system will not work. You needed alternately charged electric fence. This means that every other wire is active and every other wire is grounded. Be careful not to connect the two systems together because that's the animal's job. For seasonal freezing or drought conditions we recommend using a double throw switch to switch back and forth from a standard grounding system and an alternate grounding system.

Using these techniques you should be able to achieve adequate grounding in just about any situation.

There's a lot of the gear for electric fences which is not required but can increase attractiveness, ease installation, or protect against weeds and lightning damage. If you ever plan on moving your fence you should have spools and winders. Reasons for moving the fence can be seasonal removal camping use or rotational grazing. But whatever the reason being able to wind up and spool out your conductor is a great advantage. Metal wire should never be strung or respooled. To easily turn off fence or a portion of your fence you should use a throw switch. This is especially useful when using an AC charger which may be far away or difficult to access. a double throw switch can be used to switch between grounding systems. This adds a level of sophistication and is useful for when the ground is frozen or dry. For more information on extra grounding systems please see our video on additional grounding.

If you are keeping out dear you may want to bait your fence with scent caps. These will prompt the deer to lick the fence and ensure that they get a serious shock. Polytape users may want clips to hold their loose ends. This can be done for esthetic reasons or to prevent the tape from contacting anything and grounding out. It is also courteous to warn people of the existence of the fence with warning signs even though most chargers are not strong enough to harm humans. If you live in an area with a lot of plant life and have a long fence you may want an energy limiter. This device delays the pulse of electricity from entering the bottom wire. Thus any drain created by plants contacting the bottom wire takes place after at the top wires have already had a chance to shock the target animal. Electric fences are quite vulnerable to lightning damage so you may want to take precautions if you live in a high risk area.

Hiring professional deer fence installers can be costly. If you are considering doing the project yourself the video above will help you with the main components of your fence in the following order:

Set the posts (including corner posts, corner braces, end braces, and earth anchors).

Attach the monofilament line or tie wire that runs along the top of the fencing (needed for all but short polypropylene fences).

Attach a length of fencing to the monofilament line and supporting posts and trees, section by section, making adjustments for grade changes as needed. Be sure to leave enough fencing at the bottom to allow for a six-inch bottom flap.

Secure the fence bottom with ground stakes.

To set a deer fence round post into the ground start with a digging bar. Stick a piece of tape on the digging bar at a height corresponding to the appropriate depth of the hole. Then thrust the digging bar into the ground at the location you want to set the post. Work the bar downward while rotating in the hole. If you run into a rock that you cannot navigate, move the bar to another location and try again.

Pound the post in with a manual post driver. The driver is a weighted metal cylinder open at one end and closed at the other, with handles on the sides. Take it up a ladder and slips it over the top of the metal post to be installed. It is then raised and dropped anywhere from a few inches to nearly its full length so as to tap or pound the post into the ground. Be sure no one is ever assisting you by holding the upper portion of the post with their hands, because the heavy descending driver can remove flesh from the hands.

Round metal posts with drive sleeves are a little easier to install. When the sleeve is halfway in, remove the drive cap and insert the post. Now apply a level to make sure the post is straight. Then remove the post, replace the drive cap, drive the sleeve three-quarters of the way in, put the post back in the sleeve, and check it for straightness again before driving the sleeve all the way into the ground. If the sleeve needs adjustment at any point to keep the post straight, place the drive cap on top and hit the drive cap gently with the sledgehammer so as to move it in the right direction.

There is likely to be some play in the post when it is finally seated. To eliminate this, pound two galvanized nails into the space between the post and the sleeve. These nails should be separated from each other by roughly a quarter of the distance around the post.

A less expensive alternative to round metal posts is black-painted steel angle-iron posts. These fence posts have a smaller cross-section than the round posts and are less likely to be heaved up by frost. However, angle-iron deer fence posts are not robust enough to serve as corner posts when the weight of a metal hexagrid fence, falling branches, snow, or deer are likely to create major stress. So in these cases, wood posts or round metal posts should be used on the corners.