Note:
I do apologize for more than 6 months rest from writing my travel adventures, had been busy, but still got a chance to visit some cities in USA and even got a chance to return to Japan for a while. This post is a continuation of my previous post that focusing about Dotonbori.
Before leaving Dotonbori, I visited a museum which included in the Osaka Pass that I bought. Since I love museum, I was curious what to see inside of Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum.
One of the Ukiyoe Prints with the name of museum (sorry as it was blurred one)
Finding the museum was quite a challenge, I used my GPS in my phone and I knew that I was in front of it, but I was not sure since I did not see immediately the English Version name of the building (which can be seen only at one side) as I stand in the corner of it. The museum is a two-storey small and narrow building, because of that I had doubts if itâs the museum. Then, I entered the building and asked someone if itâs the museum that I was looking for, the Japanese lady confirmed to me that it was. Next, I showed my Osaka Pass to the lady in the counter and she exchanged it to a ticket. Then, I took upstairs to see the current exhibit displayed at that time.
As part of my learning in the museum, âKamigataâ refers to Kansai region where Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe belong but not used anymore when Emperor Meiji moved to Edo (now Tokyo).
Some of the display that I found describes the old days of Dotombori (Dotonbori). The exhibits displays the entertainment information of the area including theatre descriptions and maps. Here, I understood why Dotombori is called as Japanese Broadway, because the best theatres in the country can be found in the area. Other displays even shows how busy and festive Dotombori area at its earlier times.
Settsu Meisho Zue (illustrated famous-place picture collection which introduced Osakaâs famous place)
Detailed description of Dotombori
Kaomise at Dotombori (Naka-za Theatre)
Kaomise at Kado-za Theatre
Takeda-no-shibashi (Takeda Theatre)
A piece of history every time I discover it made me sad because a piece or part of history has been destroyed because of war. Below mentioned that almost all theatres were gone during the air raid in March 1945.
And the Best Theatres to see in Dotombori during its old days (where some of it still exist as of this time).
Ukiyoe Paintings (Prints)
Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum is a private museum and mainly focused to display traditional Ukiyo-e artwork depicting Kabuki performers. Kamigata Ukiyo-e was produced mainly in Osaka during Edo period. The museum changed their display from time to time. At the time of my visit, they are displaying ukiyo-e paintings with the theme of âActorâs Make-up in Ukiyo-e paintingsâ. It means that the exhibits features the make-up of kabuki actors.
Paints Used for Ukiyoe paintings
Different color information used for Ukiyoe paintings
Ukiyo-e is a genre of Japanese art which flourished from the 17th through 19th centuries. Its artists produced woodblock prints and paintings of such subjects as female beauties; kabuki actors and sumo wrestlers; scenes from history and folk tales; travel scenes and landscapes; flora and fauna; and erotica. The term ukiyo-e (澎ä¸çľľ) translates as âpicture[s] of the floating worldâ.
One of the display found in the exhibit was Kokusenya Kassen (The Battle of Coxinga) Ukiyoe print. It shows the puppet play created by Chikamatsu Monzaemon which portrays the historical figure named Koxinga or Coxinga (Chinese Ming loyalist resisted Qing) and depicts a jidaimono play (historical episode) restoring the rightful dynasty of China. Utagawa Yoshitaki (also known as Ichiyosai Yoshitaki) is a famous Japanese designer of ukiyoe woodblock prints in Osaka whom created more than 1200 ukiyoe prints during his time and commonly portrays kabuki (classic Japanese dance-drama) actors.
Kokusenya Kassen (The Battle of Coxinga)
Hagi wa Sendai Na wa Matsumoto (Matsumoto and the famous autumn flowers of Sendai)
The story of the play was said to be a rework of another play called âMeiboku sendai hagiâ (Bush clover, the famous tree of Sendai) which dramatize the intrigues over the succession within Date clan of Sendai. One of the main character named Nikki Danjo conspired to overthrow Ashikaga (represents the Date Clan) Yorikane which in the end was slain. This was made by ShunkĹsai HokushĹŤ whom recognized as the most important artist in Osaka.
The ghostly rodent is actually Nikki in metamorphosis â he possesses magical powers, including the ability to turn himself into a giant rat. Nikki holds his hands in the manner associated with nercromancy as the rat emerges from his human form (note the lighter shading of the tail and hindquarters, indicating that the transformation is still in progress). Nikki is a prime example of an important role type known as jitsuaku (or tategataki) â unrepentant evil samurai who plot to overthrow their lords. They are also referred to as kuni kuzushi (âdemolisher of nationsâ) to signify their intention to usurp an emperorâs throne or a daimyĂ´âs domain.
The rat clenches with his teeth a scroll containing a list of conspirators planning to wrest power from Yorikane. Later, pretending to have reformed, Nikki will substitute another list and offer it as trumped-up evidence of the conspiracy, only to remove a dagger hidden within the scroll and mortally wound a counsel and ally of Yorikaneâs son.
Hagi wa Sendai Na wa Matsumoto (Matsumoto and the famous autumn flowers of Sendai)
Arashi Rikan Lineage by Yoshikuni
Arashi Rikan Lineage by Yoshikuni (Portrait of different roles of Arashi Rikan)
Yoshitsune Senbon Zakura (Yoshitsune and the Thousand Cherry Trees)
Sato Tadanobu, Yoshisuneâs follower who has accompanied Yoshisuneâs lover, Shizuka Gozen, is in fact a fox. It has transformed into Sato Tadanobu because the drum-head of Yoshitsuneâs drum was made from the foxâs parentâs skin. Finally. Shizuka Gozen finds it out.
âKamigata Ukiyoe Museum
One of the three most popular and famous in the Kabuki repertoire
Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami (Sugawara and the Secrets of Calligraphy)
Same with Yoshitsune Senbon Zakura (above) ukiyoe, Sugawara Denjun Tenarai Kagami is one of the most popular play in kabuki repertoire. In the act III of this play where it titled as âThe Struggle for the Carriage (Kurumabiki)â.
This famous scene, âa classic example of Kabukiâs stylized beautyâ,[13] takes place in front of the Yoshida Shrine in Kyoto. The scene opens as UmeĹmaru and Sakuramaru try to stop Shiheiâs carriage, and are confronted by MatsuĹmaru, a member of the entourage. As the pair begin to unlash the oxen and tear apart the carriage, Shihei emerges, his blue face makeup marking him as a villain. He glares at them malevolently, halting their attack.
 Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami
 Shinpan Kikugoro Zukushi (created by Kuniyasu)
The memorial performance for Danzuo IV
Is a 9/1824 tsuizen-e depicting Ichikawa Danzo V (1788-1845) on the stage of the Kado Theater commemorating the 17th anniversary of the passing of his celebrated forebear Danzo IV (1745-1808). The 17th anniversary (actually falling in the 16th year, due to the way Japanese count such things) is an important milestone in ancestor worship. Beyond that date the deceasedâs generation is understood to seriously drop off in numbers; so does interest, one can assume, even within a family.
Danzo IV (known as Shiko) had the final curtain drawn on him before single sheet Osaka printmaking had reached its flowering.* Perhaps this is one reason why Umetatsu (n.d.), an otherwise unrecorded artist, inserted him so strongly, peering down in ferocious mie from inside the triple black frame â actually the mimasu crest of the Ichikawa acting family.
Also of interest is the jaw line of the kneeling Danzo V. Thanks to regional differences in actor portraiture, the same thespianâs face was usually drawn thin and angular in Edo and soft and pudgy in Osaka.
In this case, though the print lists an Osaka publisher, Danzo Vâs visage (pointedly sans make-up) betrays the narrower Edo look.
One possible reason may lie in the first part of Umetatsuâs signature â âAzumaya,â or âEasterner.â If the artist was visiting from Edo, (where he presumably would have used a different name, and where, incidentally, both Danzos were hugely celebrated), that could explain both the obscurity of the signature, and the actorâs severe jaw line.
It might also explain the rarity of this print. True, Danzo V was not performing in Osaka at the time, but one would still expect a special Ichikawa lineage tribute image like this to sell well. Perhaps Osakans reacted particularly negatively to the cut of his jaw.
 The memorial performance for Danzuo IV
Azumakagami Mikari no Maki
The Ukiyoe print shown below is portion of the play of Azumakagami Mikari no Maki designed by Syunko.
Azuma Kagami is medieval text chronicles events of the Kamakura Shogunate from Minamoto no Yoritomoâs rebellion against Taira clan. It was compiled after 1266 under the directive of the Hojo shikken. It is an enormously detailed record of different activities centering on the shĹgun with almost daily entries that include even notes on the weather.
Azumakagami Mikari no Maki
Hadekurabe Ise Monogatari
  Hadekurabe Ise Monogatari
Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami (Sugawara and the Secrets of Calligraphy)
From the scene IV of the play Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami, a print depicts the scene from Tempaizan (Mount Tempai). The ukiyoe print designed by Syunko
Kan Shojo who is leading his quiet life in exile goes to Anrakuji temple to hear the story that the ume (plum) tree that he loved in Kyoto came flying overnight. Umeomaru arrives at the scene and tells Kan Shojo about Fujiwara no Shiheiâs conspiracy in Kyoto. Kan Shojo transforms into a thunder spirit from anger and ascends to heaven.
âKamigata Ukiyoe Museum
Sugawara Denju Tenarai Kagami by Syunko
Tenmangu Natane no Gokuh (The Rapeseed Offerings at Tenmangu Shrine)
The ukiyoe print was based from pure kabuki play entitled Tenmangu Natane no Gokuh which is one of the play that was written more to exploit the principles of feudal loyalty than to depict court romances.
âRising from the Flames: The Rebirth of Theater in Occupied Japan, 1945-1952
The print displays the Kabuki actor Nakamura Shikan III is in the role of magician Ki no Haseo in the play, âTenmangu Natane no Gokuâ performed at Naka Theater. The print designed by Utagawa Sadaihiro, a Japanese artist that produced portraits from the beginning of his career. He was said to be a student of Kunisada, but then changed his name to Hirosada and became student under Sadamasu. He was active artist from 1830 to 1850.
Nakamuraza Sankai no Zu (The Third Floor of the Nakamura Theater)
Another ukiyoe displayed was made by Utagawa Kunisada, the most popular and most commercially successfully designer of ukiyoe during 19th century in Japan. The print depicts the kabuki actors in the third floor of Nakamura Theater.
Nakamuraza Sankai no Zu (The Third Floor of the Nakamura Theater)
The museum also showcases a display and information of the old Dotonbori. Through exhibits, it can learned that Dotonbori was a large scale entertainment district and the south side of Dotonbori called as âplay sideâ. Dotonbori has not only kabuki theaters, but also as puppet theaters, and even place for acrobatics or sumo matches. âSettsu Meisho Zueâ (1796-1798) the picture collection of Osakaâs famous place illustrates famous places, temples, shrines, events, customs, and traditions in the particular area.
Other stuff that found being exhibit in the museum are below:
Notes :
Plan to visit Osaka ? Please check latest information here.
Location : Osaka, Japan
Directions / Transportation to Osaka :
1. For official access to Osaka coming from anywhere in Japan, please check here.
Official Website :Â Osaka Info
Plan to visit Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum? Please check latest information here.
Location : 1-chĹme-6-4 Nanba, ChĹŤĹ-ku, Osaka, 542-0076, Japan
Directions / Transportation to Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum:
1. For trains, there are four Namba Stations where different train lines stops near Dotonbori.
a. Take Yamatoji Line for JR Namba Station or
b. Take Hanshin-Namba or Kintetsu Limited Express or Kintetsu-Nara Line for Osaka-Namba Station or
c. Take Modosuji Line or Sen-Nichimae Line or Yotsubashi Line (all subway lines) for Namba Station or
d. Take Nankai Line or Nankai-Koya Line or Nankain Limited Express for Namba Station
2. From different station, follow the walking path towards Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum
3. For official access link, please refer here.
Official Website : Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum, Dotonbori
 Visiting Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum (Part 3 of 3) Note: I do apologize for more than 6 months rest from writing my travel adventures, had been busy, but still got a chance to visit some cities in USA and even got a chance to return to Japan for a while.
