Vir Dirthara

Ph. Eduardo Soteras

Ph. Bete Giyorgis

Ph. Sean Gallup

The small town of Lalibela in Ethiopia is home to one of the most extraordinary sacred sites in the world. Its eleven churches were carved directly out of solid volcanic rock. This dusty, rural town only gained access to electricity relatively recently, and it still has no paved roads. Originally called Roha, the town was later named after King Lalibela of the Zagwe dynasty, who ruled the Ethiopian Empire from 1181 to 1221. During his reign, this remarkable complex of eleven churches was created. What you see in these photographs is not a group of buildings made from stone blocks. Each church was carved from a single mass of rock, with no joints, bricks, or mortar. The builders first cut a deep trench around the future church, separating it from the surrounding bedrock. They then worked from the top down, carving the exterior before gradually hollowing out the interior. Once the doors and windows had been opened, workers entered the rock itself and carved out rooms, columns, passages, and sanctuaries from within. That is why these churches are described as monolithic: each one was shaped from a single piece of stone rather than assembled from separate materials.

This method required extraordinary technical knowledge, precision, patience and skill. Even more remarkable was the vision and courage behind the idea itself. The overall concept, the architectural design, and the artistic details and ornamentation are achievements in their own right.

As archaeologists have described it:

Cumulus. Cloud and weather atlas. 1944. Photo by Hans Groenhoff.

Steeped in dark romanticism, gorgeous portrait painting by Audrey Benjaminsen @audreybenjaminsenart.

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