ArtByPino.com

So, you have decided to get a film camera and are searching for 'cheap good film cameras' or 'best film cameras for beginners or 'best affordable 35mm film cameras' or '35mm vintage film cameras for sale near me?'

Let us share with you what we believe you ought to consider when buying a film camera, and we will also share with you what to stay away from. Of course, if you are a pro at film camera photography, none of this may apply to you.

INTRODUCTION

The cost of the camera is just a tiny part of your overall film photography journey. What do we mean by that?

Let’s say you spend $250 on the camera. Now, each color roll with recent price hikes is ~$12. If you have champagne taste or follow a friend’s advice or a YouTuber, you are likely to buy the pro films such as Kodak Portra 400 or 800 ~$16-$20. Now add to that the cost of developing + scanning. At the minimum, you will be spending $20 per roll. So, now you are up to ~$32-~38 per roll. Now, imagine you bought a cheap camera that you thought you got a killer deal on, and half the pictures don’t come out or don’t come out at all. What is the added cost of the disappointment? After you have waited 10-15 days to receive the roll film back from developing (we do it in 5-days if you bring your film to us by 3p on a Monday). So, was the cheap deal worth it?

Somehow, the concept of Value-Added Services is lost upon folks 

There is more to selling a piece of equipment beyond the equipment itself. A seller who invests in learning about various camera systems and film emulsions and developing and takes the time to understand your film photography journey and goals needs to be compensated for their efforts, beyond the profit on the sale of the equipment. You can get low prices on Amazon, eBay, etc., but, not value-added services such as being able to talk to someone live who will answer your questions or point you in the right direction if they don't know the answers. We want to learn about your goals. We offer our suggestions based on ongoing research and learning. We invest steadily (and heavily $$$) into old catalogs and books for the brands we carry. When you have a question we don’t know the answer to, they are available as our resources.

The ‘Price Police’ (see the section below on 'Price Police') is also quick to point out that Facebook Groups and Forums can answer your questions. Right. Ever ask a question and have folks go off on a tangent in response to your question? Or start telling you a long story about how they - 30 years ago - did something that is vaguely related to your question. Or treat you like an idiot? Or, worst yet, tell you to ‘Google’ it! Or, you should use the group search feature as the question has already been asked - ok, that one we agree with. And, of course, there is no accountability. Anyone can say to you to take specific actions to resolve your issue in a group or a forum online, but, hey, if it doesn’t work or damages something else, not their problem.

So, Here are the 8 Things to Consider When Buying a Film Camera

Is it Film Tested? Does the listing show the pictures taken with the camera? All our camera listings include pictures taken with the camera to see what the photos taken with it look like. WATCH OUT - If the listing does not include pictures taken with the camera being offered for sale, that is a red flag. Folks that claim that they didn't have a battery so, they couldn't test it, or that they didn't have a film so they couldn't test it but that they fired the shutter and it sounded accurate are likely to be dubious.

30-day Warranty included? Will you be able to call the seller if you have problems? A reputable seller that claims the camera to be in fine working condition will have no qualms about providing a 30-day warranty on the camera. We are available Mo-Sa, 11-7p, CT over the phone, in-person (by appointment). Text us (956) 492-7140 to get a callback as it helps minimize spam. You get what you pay for. If you buy cheap or get a killer deal, it is unlikely to include any warranty. Hell, you won't get a hold of the seller once the transaction is done. Or, they will be selling it to you 'as is.' We have had Customers who bring their faulty cameras to us - that they had just received from their online purchase - and we ask them to contact the seller,, and they tell us that they cannot get a hold of the seller. What they once thought was a 'killer' or 'cheap deal' turns out to be an expensive paperweight.

Light Seals replaced ($75+)? Most vintage (20 years or older) cameras have light seals that need replacement. Over time, the seals disintegrate due to the temperature and the nature of the foam or material used in keeping the light out of the film chamber. Yes, they can add some cool effects to your image. But, worst is the problem they create from the disintegrated bits making their way into the camera’s mechanism, the viewfinder, showing up on film, your shots, etc. We examine and replace the light seals on our cameras unless we determine that they have been recently replaced and do not disintegrate upon gently rubbing them. Depending on the camera models, replacing the seals can run from $75 and up. The cost of the material is negligible. It is the labor involved in removing the old seals properly, ensuring that the tiny parts don't make their way into the interior of the camera's mechanism, that is time-consuming. Lastly, replacing your light seals is only good if the camera is film-tested after replacing them. So, there is the added cost of shooting a roll of film and developing + scanning it to ensure that it works without light leaks. That is why it costs $75 and up for us to replace your light seals. Most folks that do this for cheap - ask them if they film tested the camera after they replaced the light seals. If they did, they couldn't afford to replace the seals for cheap. WATCH OUT - Ask the seller when was the last time the light seals were replaced, and they say, ‘oh, they don’t need replacing; they look good or they tell you that you can buy the material at Hobby Lobby and do it yourself.

Mirror Foam replaced ($10-25)? Mirror foam cushions the mirror in a Single Lens Reflex (SLR) camera when you fire the shutter. So, if you are firing the shutter at 1/1,000th of a second, that is how fast the mirror is slapping up against the top of the camera. If the foam has disintegrated, it is a matter of time before the mirror will crack (a more expensive fix) or damage other components. So, we take the same approach for the light seals above and ensure that any camera shipped to our Customer has that issue proactively addressed. WATCH OUT - Ask the seller when was the last time the mirror was replaced, and they say ‘oh, they don’t need replacing, they look good’ or that you can buy the material at Hobby Lobby and do it yourself. Or, worst yet, they don’t know what you are talking about.

Lens has Protective Filter & Cap ($15-30)? It is not a question of if you will ever drop your camera or hit the lens against the door frame; it is a question of when. Without a protective filter and cap, you would be breaking the expensive lens instead of a $15-25 clear filter or a $5-10 lens cap. WATCH OUT - Sellers say that you can pick up those items for a few bucks, no big deal. Yes, it is a big deal because anyone that takes good care of their equipment will use a protective filter or a lens cap or a lens hood and a case. Not all older cameras have clear filters available for them due to the small size of the filters but, any SLR like Canon, Pentax, Nikon, Olympus should have them.

Wash Over AND User Condition WATCH OUT - Anytime you see a listing where the seller casually states a defect in the camera with something like ‘this a common problem’ of the era or that particular model, etc. While that may be true, the professional level CLA should address the problem or the pricing needs to be lowered to match that defect. A growing trend is to describe the condition of the item with the words "User Condition." Move on to another listing. That is code speak for 'the camera sucks.'

Phone & DM support included? We view you as more than a transaction. We want to earn your business. We want your film photography journey to be a successful one. As a newbie, we know that you will need some hand-holding in the initial phases of your journey just like we needed. So, we make ourselves available to you. We are available Mo-Sa, 11-7p, CT over the phone, in-person (by appointment). Text us at (956) 492-7140 to get a callback as it helps minimize spam. You can email us at [email protected]. WATCH OUT - Sellers on Craigslist or Mercari or other platforms where the likelihood of reaching them after the sale is slim to none. To them, you are a cheap deal, a quickie. If that is what you want and you know your way around a film camera, nothing wrong with that.

Is in-person support included? Granted this doesn’t apply to everyone. We would love to have you visit us if you are in the area. This is more for our regional Customers that are in the Lower Rio Grande Valley (LRGV). When you buy online and need help, you cannot meet with the seller in person for assistance. With Covid-19, we have learned to take proper precautions - masking, sanitizing, etc. We have built some friendships due to visiting with our Customers in person. We are here for you to visit us Mo-Sa, 11-7p, CT by appointment. Just text us (956) 492-7140 or DM us, and we will set an appointment for you to stop by with your questions.

Conclusion

Film Photography is an expensive hobby or pursuit to start with. Don’t let anyone make you believe otherwise. Over time, you can make it quite affordable by developing your own film and scanning it yourself. Yes, you need a scanner and a computer to be able to do that along with some applications.

Our suggestion before you dive deep into it is to evaluate whether it is really for you or just a passing phase. How can you do that? Buy a disposable camera, shoot with it, get it developed at Walgreens or Walmart or CVS. You won’t get the negatives back but, for less than $20 you will get prints and a CD with your scanned images. 

Why do we recommend going to CVS or Walmart or Walgreens to get your film developed when we offer the service? Because, as newbies, we recognize that you may be on a limited budget. Our film processing (developing, scanning, printing) services cost more because the processing is done at professional labs using the finest chemicals and scanners. We are amongst the leading photo printers. More importantly, when we process your film, we are happy to review each image or print with you and share our feedback to help you improve or keep doing what you are doing right. Walgreens, CVS, Walmart, and, other online places don't offer that interactive experience. Again, if price is important to you, go to them. If value-added services are important to you, come to us.

If you like the experience, the look, then, invest in a beginner 35mm film camera such as the Canon AE-1 or the Pentax K1000 (fully mechanical). We sell both of those and the Olympus series - OM1, OM2. Additionally, we sell 120 Medium Format Film Cameras such as the Mamiya 645, Mamiya RB67, Rolleiflex TLRs 6x6, Hasselblad. For high-end 35mm film cameras, we sell Leica M3. Our existing Customers trust us with buying a camera. We purchase it, test it, get it CLAd and test it again and then deliver it to them with a 30-day warranty. Yes, it is more expensive than them just buying it online. And, they gladly pay for the Peace of Mind.

Beware of The Price Police

Newbies, the first thing to beware of is folks in Facebook groups or forums that pride themselves in being the ‘Price Police.’ 

They are the ones to label others as ‘price gougers' quickly. They are typically quite knowledgeable about film photography but lack business sense. Typically, the ‘Price Police’ are not in touch with the reality of supply and demand. They are fixated on what they believe the profit or the price of an item should be and nothing is going to convince them otherwise. When the ‘Price Police’ occasionally sell a thing or two, they profit from it. They are not selling it at cost or below cost - at this point their love for the Film Community evaporates. But, who exactly is to determine when the price is considered to be a gouging price? Some folks believe in eBay ‘sold’ listing prices as being a good reference. Others consider eBay to be ‘flea bay.’ The truth is that pricing anything vintage is highly subjective. It all depends on supply and demand and how well the item has been preserved, whether it has been professionally kept in good repair. Not to the ‘Price Police.’ They have their own system of determining what ought to be the right price.

‘Price Police’ are usually looking for a punching bag to make up for lost self-esteem in other areas of their lives. So, post after post, you will see such folks going after what they consider to be high-priced items. They don’t undertake a business enterprise selling film photography-related products or services. They mostly know to take shots at the efforts of others. Perhaps, at one point in time they did engage in business and feel that makes them the pundits. They are out of touch with the reality of slim profit margins and the expenses associated with doing business in today’s highly competitive ecommerce environment where multiple levels of fees are involved - everything from website hosting, ecommerce, payment platforms, channel (eBay, FB, Etsy, etc). So, take anything they say with a good measure of skepticism. Just like this article. See what your experience tells you.

Most importantly, know that the ‘Price Police’ don’t have anything better to do in their lives. They seem to have infinite time on their hands to tear apart the efforts of others - they will often claim to be price policing to ‘protect’ the Film Community. Quite insulting towards you. They feel that you are incapable of doing a price search and doing your homework before deciding to pay what they consider gouging price. They truly think you are pretty stupid.

There is an old saying “there is a cure in poison.” What we mean is that don’t completely discount or write-off the ‘Price Police.’ As we said above, typically, these are knowledgeable folks. So, often times, if you know how to look past their sullen and fatalistic and mightier than god attitude, you will find wisdom and a thing or two you could learn from them. Remember, it is their impotence and emasculation in other walks of life that makes them bitter and hateful and the online environment provides a perfect outlet for their misery. Learn what you can from them and ignore the rest. Stay away from their toxicity and enjoy your film journey.

Cheers!

Pino Shah

Living in McAllen, which is about 15 miles from the Mexican border town of Reynosa, I cross across to the Mexican side several times a year. I go to eat roasted corn on the cob (elote) and enjoy coffee at Cafe de Paris. Their sweet bread (pan dulce) is amazing.

For such crossings, you go through the obligatory scanning of your bags if you are walking across with any. If you are crossing by car, there is a red or green light for each lane that randomly indicates if you should pull over into the inspection lane (when you get the red light). Pop open the trunk, answer their questions, and off you go. Such crossings are permitted without any further formalities within a radius of 20-22 km into Mexico. Some websites say 35 km. Always a good idea to have your US passport with you - you are going to need it to cross back into the USA anyways. Or, if you are a foreign national, have your passport with the multiple entry visa stamp for the USA in it to avoid problems re-entering the USA.

Now, if you plan on traveling beyond the 20-22 km into Mexico, you are required to fill out a form unofficially known as the Mexico Tourist Card and officially known as Forma Migratoria Múltiple (FMM) or Multiple Immigration Form. While you can fill the form out online and print it, without the stamp or seal, it is not valid. The Mexican Immigration Services known as the National Institute of Migration (INM; typically their office is as soon as you cross over into Mexico) charge $35 to stamp the form and do say that it is valid for 180 days but, for a single visit. The multiple in the name of the form refers to the form being multipurpose; air or land and not, multiple entries. Also, the form is purely for tourist visits and not for employment activities. Be careful of providing information to privately run websites that have an official-looking questionnaire and create the form online for you and charge a processing fee. Those sites are no different than sites in the USA that allow you to enter a passport application online. No affiliation with the embassy or the government just providing an easy-to-use interface and charging a fee for that service. All good, all legal.

The above applies to both, entry by land or air. For air - I have never flown into Mexico from the USA but, read this online - the airlines provide a form before landing that you fill out. Same form as the link below and shown in the picture above, you just hand-fill it.

The good news is that the Mexican government also has a website where you can enter the information and print the form out. However, when I did that on my last trip, the officer at the Reynosa border said that it was invalid because I had not printed it and I showed him the filled-out pdf form on my phone meaning that he could not stamp it. So, I had to hand-fill the form out there, pay the $35 and have them stamp it. I have an upcoming trip to Mexico where I am entering Reynosa by land and then catching a flight from there. So, does that mean I need a land entry form or an air entry form, or both? I will soon find out. My guess is that since I am not arriving in Reynosa by air and arriving by land, and then traveling by air, I will need to fill out the land version of the form.

Ever wonder as to “which 35mm or 120 medium format film I should buy?” or “35mm film shop near me” or “where can I buy 35mm or 120 or C41 film?” or “where can I black & white film near me?” or “where can I buy color film?”

If you asked any of the above questions, this post is for you. So, you are just starting into film photography, let’s take an estimate of costs associated with your new passion:

Camera - handed-down, inherited - no cost. Unless it needs light-seals or mirror foam replaced. Then, $15-75. $15 to DIY, cheaply. Go to a hobby store and buy felt and foam and watch YouTube to DIY. Yay! $75 to buy laser-cut seals + cost of labor to remove the old seals and foam completely otherwise, the new seals and foam won’t adhere (stick) correctly. $75 also includes the cost to film-test your camera after the pro installs the new light seals and foam to make sure that they were installed correctly and no light leaks exist. Otherwise, let’s say, you miraculously find both, a film-tested and a camera with replaced light seals and mirror foam online - say, a Pentax K1000 ($150-250) or a Canon AE-1 ($250-350) or an Olympus OM-2 series ($250-400) with the costs varying based on what lens you get with it.

Cost of the film - you can get basic black and white 35mm rolls for as low as $5. These would be like the Arista or Fomapan, 36 exposures. Of course, you will have the so-called learned folks on Facebook Groups having you believe that those films are of inferior quality or sh*t in their opinion. But, show them an image taken with those film stocks next to one taken with the more expensive film stocks taken with identical camera + lens setup and developed similarly and they would not be able to tell you which is which even if their life depended on it. Seriously. Try it. I have more than once done this test on various Facebook Groups with hilarious outcomes. So, you can follow a YouTube film photography guru and spend your money on a film that costs twice or thrice as much or you can tell yourself “I am a newbie to film photography, and $5 film that gives me 36 exposure is an affordable way to trial and error my learning.” I sell 25 varieties of films for color films, I typically recommend the $6 24 exp color films.

Cost of developing film - call it developing or processing, it all means the same. Your negative has to be treated with chemicals to make the images appear on them so that they can be scanned or printed. Your neighbor may do it for $5 a roll or even for free. Take it to CVS, Walgreens, Walmart, or, Target and they will charge you $18 or so and give you a set of prints and, a CD with your scanned images. What about your negatives? They destroy them. Yup. Too costly to return negatives back to the store or the Customer. Logistics and labor involved. And, they take 3-4 weeks. If you can live with that, go for it. Otherwise, there are several online outfits that do a fine job - The Dark Room is one of the most popular ones. For $20 including shipping and prints, negatives returned along with scans and, a 2-3 week turnaround, it is a good deal. I charge $36 inclusive of taxes to develop and scan a roll. No prints. $46 includes prints. I return the negatives. Scans are done at a pro lab that uses a Noritsu scanner and if you drop off the film on Monday before 3p, I return everything by Friday after 3p. So, take your pick - don’t mind waiting 2-3 weeks, go with a decent online pro lab. Want it sooner, come to me. Oh, one more thing. That neighbor that does it for free or for $5 - it is highly unlikely that they have a dedicated film developer and scanner like pro labs do. Chances are that they hand-develop the film. Meaning that there is no consistency from one roll to the next. Colors, contrast, dust, etc., may shift from roll to roll. Meaning that if you are a newbie learning film photography, you don’t know if your picture taking is off or if the development is off. I have one Customer that prides himself in learning film photography and developing simultaneously as he wants to save money. Wow. He has no reference or benchmarking on either his development or photography and therefore, in the long run, he is spending more than if he were to send his film to a pro lab for development. He would know where his photography is off. Oh well.

So here are my recommended films. I have shot all the films that I sell and developed them - you can find my pricing here:

NEWBIES

Black and white - Arista 100 or 400 24-36 exp. Fomapan is made by the same facility in Czechoslavia so, highly likely it is the same film but, slightly more in cost.

Color - Kodak Gold 200 or 400, Color Plus 24-36 exp. Oh, of course, Fuji Superia XTRA or Fuji 200.

POST-NEWBIES meaning you are ready for the next step

Black and white - Any of the Ilford or Kodak films with 50 ISO to 400 ISO such as Ilford PanF 50, Ilford Delta 100, Ilford FP4+ 125, Kodak TMAX 100, Ilford Delta 400, Ilford HP5+ 400, Kodak TMAX 400, Kodak TRIX 400. Plan on shooting in low light on 35mm, try out the Ilford Ilford Delta 3200 or the Kodak TMAX 3200. And, of course, there are boutique and rebranded films such as those marketed by Adox, Agfa, Bregger, Kosmo, and, others.

Color - Cine Still 50, Kodak Pro Image 100, Kodak Ektar 100, Portra 160, Portra 400, and, of course, Portra 800 which I find to be the most versatile color film I have ever shot with. Regardless of when I shoot with it - middle of a sunny day or evening or indoors, I am always happy with the results. The grain is noticeable given the higher ISO but, I find it quite pleasing.

DISPOSABLE CAMERAS

Having shot with the small variety of disposable film cameras out there, my preferred one is the Kodak 800 which goes by a couple of different names such as Kodak FunSaver 800 and Kodak Power Flash 800. As long it says 800 in the name which is for the ISO, you are good. It uses the Portra 800 film stock which as I explained above is the most versatile color film stock in my perception. Fujifilm QuickSnap disposable film cameras are okay as long as you are shooting in good light. Note that they use 400 ISO film as Fuji doesn’t make 800 ISO film as of 06/16/2021.

Searching for ‘maternity or newborn or portrait photographer or graduation photographer or quince or quinceanera photographer near me?’ Or, searching for ‘studio photography or photography studio near me?’

I regularly get calls from folks asking for photography services that I don’t specialize in such as ‘Studio’ Maternity or Newborn or Portraits or Graduation or Seniors or Portraits. I do all types or genres of photography but, I do it outdoors as I don’t have a studio and I shoot film. Like the old days using Medium and Large Format films. I do offer Architecture & Portraits (outdoors) on digital. So, I thought that I would create a list of photographers whose work I admire for your convenience.

If you ever have a non-positive experience with any of these photographers, please do let me know as I am constantly looking to update the list and want to refer only the very best professionals. I by no means have used the services of any of these photographers. In most instances, I have not even met them in person. The list is based on networking online, usually Facebook, and upon reviewing their online presence or portfolio.

Studio MATERNITY & NEWBORN, Portraits, Graduation &, Quinceaneras

in alphabetical order

JoElla Cantu

Julio Torres

Karen Martinez

Kim Boggus

HASSELBLAD FILM CAMERA RENTAL - READ THOROUGHLY

THIS RENTAL IS ONLY FOR RESIDENTS OF THE LOWER RIO GRANDE VALLEY - 4 COUNTIES OF STARR, WILLACY, HIDALGO & CAMERON. Use this checkout option ONLY if asked to by Pino Shah. First contact Pino by texting him for a callback (956) 492-7140 and once the date you need the equipment is confirmed, proceed as directed.

SUMMARY

A credit card in your name along with a photo id will be needed at the time of rental. The full cost of the camera and accessories in the amount of $3,000 will be charged to your card. Once you return everything in the same condition it was when you picked it up, the rental cost along with sales tax will be deducted from $3,000 and the balance will be refunded back to the original credit card used. Cash deposit accepted only as a last resort. For more details which may be updated from time to time, review this link that has the rental agreement.

Equipment being rented (subject to change) - Hasselblad 500 C body with A12 film back, wide strap, dark slide and, 80mm C T* lens.

Bag to carry the camera.

A per hour rate will apply if the equipment is not returned at the designated time. Again, read the agreement for details.

Other film cameras including 35mm and 120 medium format cameras available for rental. Text Pino for a callback (956) 492-7140.

I recently acquired the Kiro 400 27 exposure film (buy here) made by FilmNeverDie which took five weeks to arrive from Australia! I was unable to find any information from anyone from the US on YouTube. There are about 10 videos from folks on the other side of the world. That got me thinking. I decided to do a side-by-side comparison of three 400 ISO films; Kiro 400, Kodak UltraMax 400 and, Lomography 400.

I am blessed to have three identical camera and lens sets - Olympus OM2 series with 50mm f1.4 - that I used to do the side-by-side comparison. Normally, I develop my own films but, in this instance, I decided to splurge in the name of objectivity and sent the three rolls to a professional photo lab that uses a Noritsu scanner. I did not touch up the images in any way, they are as they were received from the lab.

Without further ado, here are the side-by-side comparisons.

Introduction

More than half of the folks that call me to ask about pricing for developing and scanning are turned off by my price. As of February 24, 2021, I charge $33.25 + tax for developing and scanning 35mm or 120 films. Regardless of whether it is color or BW or 24 exposures or 35 exposures.

The typical caller is a newbie photographer that is just looking for the cheapest price. So, I decided to do this post to show a side-by-side comparison of what a typical home scanned negative looks like and what a professional photo lab scan looks like. I shot color and a BW film and developed it myself and then, scanned it using my Epson V600. After that, I sent the negatives to my vendor who uses a Noritsu scanner. Below are the results. On a smaller screen such as a phone or a tablet, you may see minimal differences between the scans. However, on a larger monitor or when you print, the difference stands out. I adjusted both sets for contrast and brightness.

So, if you are just starting out in photography, go with someone that offers a $15-20 deal to develop and scan. But, if you shoot professionally and are spending money on buying professional-grade films, your Customers will appreciate the superior quality of the Noritsu scanner. That will result in repeat business. Your Customers will be willing to pay the premium price for the finer scans and prints.

BLACK & WHITE - Ilford HP5 400 ISO

COLOR - Fuji C 100 ISO