What's In a Kimono? Part 12
On The Tenth Day of Fun I present... a new kimono! This one is covering a rarely looked at type, so be sure to pay attention!
Name: Kuroayame (黒菖蒲) - Black Iris Type: Tsukesage (付け下げ) Time Period: Late Showa/Early Heisei (1980s-1990s) Age: 30-40 Years Old Condition: Excellent - No Stains or Markings Material: Silk Motifs: Irises Execution and Techniques: Yuzen Dyeing and Rinzu Weaving Value: $75-100 USD Tsukesage (付け下げ) are an interesting class of kimono as they're one step down in formality from a houmongi (and are often confused for houmongi), but one step up from an iromuji, making them right in the middle of the women's kimono hierarchy. At first glance, you may even think that this is a houmongi as it has a pattern that goes across the hem and also appears on the arm, which is true for both garments. However, you may have noticed on the example above that the motifs, Irises (菖蒲), have spaces in between them; this is what separates a houmongi and a tsukesage. A tsukesage will have the patterns contained within the panels of the kimono and will never cross over, whereas a houmongi will always have a sweeping pattern that flows across the entire garment. The irises here are based on a real cultivar of Japanese iris that really does bloom red petals called "Shogun." It's a highly sought after and rare species of iris. Paired with the white irises, it creates a dichotomy of purity and boldness, bringing to mind the color of blood. The sleeves and the hem of this piece are also a bright red to match the irises. While hard to see, the base silk is figured with a lattice pattern done in the rinzu technique, making it extra luxurious. However, because it's a tsukesage and people aren't wearing tsukesage much anymore (nor are many being made), it doesn't have as much value as one of its houmongi cousins ^^;
