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Ավելուկ ("aveluk") is one of the local Armenian names of a group of plants in the Rumex genus: curly dock (Rumex crispus), broad-leaved dock (R. obtusifolius), common sorrel (R. acetosa), and possibly patience dock (R. patientia).
Aveluk grows wild in humid areas of Armenia: on riverbanks, on the bases of mountains, on roadsides, and in meadows. It is foraged extensively during the spring, and eaten in large quantities throughout the year by ethnic Armenians, Greek Armenians, and Yazidi Armenians. Amongst Christians, it is especially popular during Lent ("Մեծ Պահք," "mec pahk'," or "great fast")—a forty-day-period of reflection, repentence, and abstention from meat, dairy, and eggs.
To Greek Armenians—mostly descended from Pontic Greeks, who settled in the Pontus region beginning in the 7th century BCE—these docks are called "aveluk," or "avluk."
Yazidis—an ethnoreligious group native to Kurdistan, whose religion has its roots in pre-Zorastrian Iranian paganism—call these plants "tirşo" (from Kurdish "tirş," meaning "sour"). Many Yazidis migrated to current-day Armenia in the 19th and early 20th centuries, due to religious persecution during the reign of Ottoman ruler Abdul Hamid II: today, they form the largest minority group in Armenia.
Common dishes made from this group of plants include a salad of boiled aveluk, garlic, walnuts, and spices; a stir-fry of aveluk and eggs; and a soup (ճաշ, "chash") of aveluk and cracked wheat berries. According to a 2020 survey, this soup is especially common amongst ethnic Armenians and Yazidis, but is also eaten by Greek Armenians. All three of these groups preserve aveluk for eating during the winter by drying it. Yazidis also have a preservation method exclusive to themselves: namely, lacto-fermentation (pickling in brine).
Foraging culture
Braids of aveluk, usually gathered and preserved by women, are sometimes sold in marketplaces. The dock plants themselves, however, are considered as a kind of commons, which anybody can gather as needed. Foraging thus unites concepts of communal ownership, generational knowledge, connection to land, and food sovereignty.
Armenian interdisciplinary performance artist Arpi Balyan writes:
Encouraging the use of Aveluk for nutritional and medicinal purposes is a great example of how food can be sourced without harming nature while preserving local and folk culinary and healing practices, remaining independent from the capitalist market.
By cooking aveluk chash, Balyan hopes to "strengthen our connection with familiar and unfamiliar food and to exchange local knowledge on nourishment and well-being with other communities." Aveluk is a particularly useful starting point for a pedagogical project of this sort, as Rumex plants grow across broad swathes of the Americas, Europe, Asia, North and South Africa, and Australia. Thus—perhaps paradoxically—people in many different parts of the world can experience their own local landscapes in new ways, thanks to engagement with a particular regional cuisine.
Aveluk chash
The aveluk leaves used to make aveluk soup are woven into characteristic long braids, and then dried. The drying process allows the leaves to ferment slightly, changing their strongly bitter flavor into a mildly, pleasantly sour one, with notes of pepper and fruit.
To make the soup, the dried braid is cut apart and rehydrated with boiled water. Cracked wheat berries (ձավար; "javar"), lentils, and potato may be added, in which case they will be boiled alongside the rehydrated aveluk until tender. A temper of fried onion, garlic, black pepper, and paprika (կարմիր պղպեղ, literally "red pepper") is then added and mixed in with the boiled ingredients. (Sometimes a one-pot version is made, in which case the aromatics will be fried in a pot, and then the other ingredients and water will be added.) The finished soup is garnished with chopped or crushed walnuts, and minced garlic.
The result is a hearty bowl of earthy lentils and tart, tender sorrel, rounded off with the slight nutty bitterness of walnuts, and the sharp zestiness of raw garlic.
[ID: A close-up of a dried, coiled aveluk braid. End ID]
Recipe under the cut!
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Ingredients:
30g dried curly dock (Ավելուկ; "aveluk")
100g cracked wheat (ձավար; "javar")
50g brown lentils (optional)
1 yellow onion, diced
1 cubed potato (optional)
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Tbsp flour (optional)
Black pepper, to taste
1 tsp paprika (կարմիր պղպեղ)
Salt, to taste
2 Tbsp margarine, to fry
Walnut and minced garlic, to garnish
To make the aveluk braid:
1. Wash and thoroughly dry the dock leaves. I found it helpful to sort them into three or four different groups based on their length: start from the longest leaves and work towards the shortest.
2. Gather six 'stems' together and bind them with a piece of kitchen twine. Separate them into three 'strands' of two leaves each, and start braiding in a normal three-strand braid (i.e. by alternately crossing the leftmost and rightmost leaf over into the middle.
Note: You'll want to keep the braid as tight as possible. 'Folding' each leaf over as you braid it, so that the opposite surface is on top each time, will help keep the braid neat.
3. As each 'strand' starts to get too short to continue braiding, bring in another leaf and hold it together with that strand; continue braiding until the braid itself holds the new leaf in place. This is the same technique used when French-braiding hair.
4. Repeat until your leaves are used up, and bind off the end.
5. Hang the braid up out of direct sunlight to dry. A windy area, such as by a window or in front of a fan, is best to dry the braid quickly and retain its color.
To make the soup:
1. Cut the aveluk braid into 2-inch long pieces with a pair of kitchen scissors.
2. Soak aveluk in just-boiled water, covered, for 15 minutes. Drain and discard the water. Thinly slice aveluk with a kitchen knife.
3. Add wheat, lentils, and potato to a large soup pot with enough water to cover. Simmer, covered, for about 10 minutes.
4. Add aveluk and simmer for another 10 minutes, until softened.
5. Meanwhile, ladle a bit of broth into a small bowl and add flour. Whisk to combine, then pour the mixture back into the soup pot.
6. Make the temper. Melt margarine on medium heat in a skillet. Add onion and fry until browned, about 8 minutes.
7. Add black pepper, paprika, and chopped garlic to the pan. Fry for about 30 seconds, until garlic no longer smells raw.
8. Pour temper into the soup and stir to combine. Simmer for 5 minutes to allow flavors to meld.
9. Top with chopped walnuts and minced garlic. Serve warm.
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Yazidi Boys From Iraq in Traditional Braids - Erick Bonnier
"The Yazidi are a mostly Kurdish-speaking ethnoreligious group. Yezidi Kurds have a Kurdish culture. According to some sources their religion is linked to ancient Zoroastrianism and Sufism while other sources view their religion as a combination of Shia and Sufi Islam with indigenous regional folk traditions. They live primarily in the Nineveh Province of northern Iraq, a region once part of ancient Assyria. Additional communities in Armenia, Georgia and Syria have been in decline since the 1990s as a result of significant migration to Europe, especially to Germany. The Yazidis believe in God as creator of the world, which he has placed under the care of seven "holy beings" or angels, the "chief" (archangel) of whom is Melek Taus, the "Peacock Angel." The Peacock Angel, as world-ruler, causes both good and bad to befall individuals, and this ambivalent character is reflected in myths of his own temporary fall from God's favor, before his remorseful tears extinguished the fires of his hellish prison and he was reconciled with God. This myth builds on Sufi mystical reflections on the angel Iblis, who proudly refused to violate monotheism by worshipping Adam and Eve at God's express command. Because of this connection to the Sufi Iblis tradition, some followers of other monotheistic religions of the region equate the Peacock Angel with their own unredeemed evil spirit Satan, which has incited centuries of persecution of the Yazidis as "devil worshippers." Persecution of Yazidis has continued in their home communities within the borders of modern Iraq, under both Saddam Hussein and fundamentalist Sunni Muslim revolutionaries. In August 2014 the Yazidi were targeted by the Islamic State of Iraq and the Levant, or ISIS, in its campaign to "purify" Iraq and neighboring countries of non-Islamic influences.
Historically, the Yazidi lived primarily in communities in locales that are in present-day Iraq, Syria, and Turkey, and also had significant numbers in Armenia and Georgia. However, events since the 20th century have resulted in considerable demographic shift in these areas as well as mass emigration. As a result, population estimates are unclear in many regions, and estimates of the size of the total population vary."
