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The corrosion problem that hides below the waterline until it's already expensive.
Electrolysis eats away at a yacht's underwater metal, props, shafts, thru-hulls, rudders, and most owners don't catch it until real damage has already happened.
Here's what causes it: stray electrical current escapes from the boat's wiring and travels through seawater looking for a path to ground. Along the way it attacks whatever metal it finds. Usual suspects: faulty wiring, bad shore-power connections, reversed polarity, corroded terminals, or a grounding system that's leaking current.
Quick distinction worth knowing: galvanic corrosion happens naturally between dissimilar metals in seawater. Electrolysis is different, it's outside electrical current speeding that process up. The two can team up if left alone, which makes catching either one early even more important.
Warning signs most owners miss:
Pitting or roughness on bronze or stainless hardware Discolored paint or blistering near underwater fittings Green or white crust on props or shafts Anodes wearing down way faster than they should
That last one is a great early flag. Rapid anode depletion usually means something electrical is happening before you can see any actual metal damage.
Diagnosis takes real equipment, voltage testing between metal components and seawater, plus checking grounding and bonding cables. DIY testing exists, but professional-grade tools catch things a basic multimeter misses.
Fixes range from simple (new anodes, cleaned terminals, re-bonded circuits) to more involved (rewiring, upgraded grounding, galvanic isolators, or replacing damaged parts entirely).
The maintenance habit that actually prevents this: test electrical potentials yearly, swap anodes based on condition, check bonding cables regularly, and get professional checks twice a year if you're somewhere hot and humid.
Full breakdown here: Electrolysis on Yachts: Causes, Signs, and Fixes Owners Miss
What is included in a complete yacht maintenance checklist for regular servicing?
A complete yacht maintenance checklist should cover more than cleaning and cosmetic work. Regular servicing should look at the hull, deck, exterior surfaces, machinery, electrical systems, plumbing, safety equipment and interior, with the frequency adjusted according to the yacht, equipment and operating conditions.
A good checklist typically includes the following:
1. Hull and underwater areas
Inspect hull and underwater surfaces for damage, cracks, blistering or unusual wear.
Check the antifouling system and look for areas of coating failure.
Inspect anodes and replace them when required.
Check seacocks, through-hulls and underwater fittings.
Inspect propellers, shafts and rudders for damage or corrosion.
Check for signs of galvanic or electrolytic corrosion.
Clean underwater surfaces as appropriate.
For yachts that remain in the water, underwater inspections should be scheduled regularly rather than waiting until the next haul-out.
2. Deck, teak and exterior surfaces
Inspect teak decks, handrails and trim for cracking, worn areas, loose seams or excessive wear.
Check deck coatings and painted surfaces for peeling, cracking or blistering.
Inspect non-slip surfaces.
Check deck fittings, cleats, rails and stanchions.
Inspect sealants around windows, hatches, fittings and deck hardware.
Clean exterior surfaces using materials and methods appropriate for the substrate.
Particular care should be taken with teak. Repeated aggressive sanding can unnecessarily remove healthy wood, so cleaning and restoration methods should be selected according to the condition of the teak and the coating or contamination being removed.
3. Engine and mechanical systems
Depending on the engine manufacturer's service schedule:
Check engine oil and coolant levels.
Inspect belts, hoses and clamps.
Check fuel filters and water separators.
Inspect cooling systems.
Check batteries and charging systems.
Inspect pumps and mechanical seals.
Check transmission and gearbox fluid.
Inspect exhaust systems.
Look for leaks, corrosion or unusual vibration.
Follow the manufacturer's recommended servicing intervals.
Don't rely only on engine hours. Age, operating conditions and storage conditions can also affect maintenance requirements.
4. Electrical systems
Inspect batteries and terminals.
Check battery charging equipment.
Inspect shore-power connections.
Check breakers and electrical panels.
Look for damaged cables or signs of overheating.
Test navigation lights and exterior lighting.
Inspect pumps, switches and electrical connections.
Check the condition of wiring in accessible areas.
Corrosion and moisture are particularly important considerations in a marine electrical system.
5. Plumbing and water systems
Inspect freshwater tanks and lines.
Check pumps and pressure systems.
Inspect hoses and clamps.
Check toilets and sanitation systems.
Inspect holding tanks and associated plumbing.
Check bilge pumps and float switches.
Look for leaks or unusual odours.
Bilge pumps deserve particular attention because they are safety-critical equipment.
6. Safety equipment
Safety equipment should be checked according to both the manufacturer's instructions and applicable regulations.
Typical checks include:
Life jackets and personal flotation equipment
Liferafts
Fire extinguishers and fire suppression systems
Emergency equipment
Flares where applicable
EPIRB and other emergency communication equipment
First-aid equipment
Smoke and carbon-monoxide alarms
Navigation and communication equipment
Check expiry dates and service requirements rather than simply confirming that the equipment is physically present.
7. Navigation and electronics
Test GPS and navigation systems.
Check radar.
Test VHF radio.
Inspect antennas and connections.
Check depth and speed instruments.
Test alarms and monitoring systems.
Check chart and software updates where applicable.
8. Interior and accommodation
Regular interior maintenance should include:
Inspecting for moisture and water ingress.
Checking for mould and mildew.
Inspecting upholstery and fabrics.
Checking woodwork and interior finishes.
Cleaning ventilation systems.
Inspecting lockers and storage areas.
Checking for unusual smells or condensation.
Inspecting seals around windows, hatches and doors.
Mould should not simply be cleaned away without investigating why moisture is present.
9. Corrosion inspection
Corrosion deserves its own section because it can affect many different yacht systems.
Inspect:
Stainless steel fittings
Fasteners
Engine components
Electrical terminals
Through-hulls
Metal deck hardware
Areas where different metals meet
The objective isn't simply to remove visible corrosion. The cause should be identified and corrected wherever possible.
10. Cleaning and surface restoration
A regular maintenance programme should also specify appropriate cleaning methods for different materials.
This can include:
Teak cleaning
Removal of mould and biological contamination
Coating and paint preparation
Stainless-steel cleaning
Removal of old coatings
Deck and hull cleaning
The key principle is to use the least aggressive effective method. Excessive abrasion or inappropriate chemicals can create additional restoration work.
How often should a yacht be serviced?
There isn't one universal maintenance interval for every yacht.
A practical approach is to divide the checklist into:
Before/after each use: Basic visual inspection, bilge checks, fluid checks, obvious leaks or damage.
Monthly: Batteries, pumps, corrosion, plumbing, exterior surfaces and safety equipment.
Seasonally: Engine and mechanical servicing, deck and teak inspection, coatings, underwater systems and electronics.
Annually: A comprehensive inspection and service covering all major systems, with manufacturer-specific servicing completed as required.
During major refit/haul-out: Detailed inspection of underwater systems, coatings, anodes, propeller/shaft systems, through-hulls and areas that cannot normally be inspected while afloat.
The most important part of the checklist
A yacht maintenance checklist should not simply be a list of things to clean.
The purpose of regular servicing is to identify small problems before they become expensive failures.
For every item, record:
Date → Condition → Action required → Work completed → Materials/products used → Next inspection date
That creates a maintenance history and makes it much easier to identify recurring problems.
For professional yacht maintenance, the best checklist is therefore yacht-specific, manufacturer-led and preventative, rather than a generic list that is followed without considering the yacht's age, materials, systems and operating environment.
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