#vintage garment

And what Mary Brooks Picken meant was enjoy them THIS ONE TIME, or  brace yourself for a lot of work . Because she then counseled, take the ruffles off the dress, wash and iron the dress and the ruffles flat, and then “re-pink” the ruffles, or give up (not that she wrote that, but that is my interpretation) and sew lace or ribbon binding to the edges to finish the edges.

Pinked edges are raw edges cut into notches with pinking shears, or with a special sewing machine attachment, or a specially made pinking machine which is far easier. So you can see why a woman would say, ok, that was fun, but now I will trim with ribbon and not have to take off the ruffles every time I wear the dress.

On the one hand, Picken saw you could get tired of the process, on the other hand, she also wrote, “Once you own a pinker, you will find innumerable ways to use it” on garments and home furnishings. The sketches show pinked ruffles on a halter dress, along dress hemlines and necklines, as decorative roses, or flat pinking along the edges of collar and cuffs, even on the edges of a bolero jacket. Of course, pinking is most often used today simply as a seam finish for the firmly woven fabric. Clearly not as much fun as going wild with your pinker, which shows you yet another decorative embellishment that we have forgotten about.

The Undarted Blouse in 1999: Vogue 9994

If you don’t put darts in a blouse, the blouse will make them for you. By which I mean, put on an unshaped,or boxy garment, and the curves of the body naturally take up space within it. So that the fabric below the bust, for example, will fold as though trying to create a dart beneath. During the 1950s, blouses were fitted, so darts shaped the clothe to the bustline and waistline and flared over the hips. But by the 1990s, blouses were over-sized.

Notice how this set of “loose fitting” blouses has careful details in many ways. It requires 1/2 inch shoulder pads. It has rounded collars which come in both a double-breasted style, with many merely decorative buttons, and an asymmetrical choice with all functioning buttons which is my favorite. There is a simple short sleeve or a long sleeve with pleats, placket and buttoned cuff. But there is not a dart to be seen. The only shaping here is at the side seams which create the mere suggestion of an hour-glass in their silhouette. 

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