Vegan traveller: vegan in India. Living life and trying my best!
After being vegetarian for the best part of 12 years, and having travelled and worked in various places around the world for the past 3, I finally packed my bags to travel to the vegetarian capital of the world, India! The only problem is....
Now I'm vegan. I made the transition to veganism 1/1/2015. It had been an inevitable step for a long while, it just took some final adjustment and education to make it official. At the time I made the change, our extended trip to India was very much planned and imminent. Sometimes I did want to kick myself, ‘oh thanks conscience, great timing!’, but alas, isn't that just how this mysterious life goes?
Now India truly is a vegetarians paradise! Every hotel/restaurant/ tea house/ snack stall has VEG/ NON VEG written over the door, and there are even innumerable PURE VEG food outlets everywhere you go! If in doubt? It's probably vegetarian! Yay! However, India may be a veggie heaven, but its a vegan minefield!
As we all may know, cows are holy in India! Which becomes evident watching motorbikes and rickshaws swerving them as they lay peacefully in the middle of the road. However, despite (and because) of this, dairy products are ingrained into the food culture here. Cows have been described as the ‘mother of the nation', and the extensive use of milk products would support that view.
Veganism is not hugely widespread in India and milk and ghee sneak themselves into a variety of food and drink here (like really sneaky! The vegetarian food labelling is extremely strict - green dot for veggie- but milk doesn't even have to be listed on the main ingredients! I've found biscuits where 'milk' or 'cream' where found hiding in 'permitted added flavourings').
However, veganism isn't impossible here, or unheard of (the Jain religion preaches an Ayurvedic, predominantly vegan diet, they also have the most beautiful temples!) It just takes a good, positive attitude and a willingness to try your best!
The thing I've had to keep reminding myself since turning vegan, is why I became vegan in the first place?! Is it because I am afraid or phobic of animal products? Is it a fanatical obsession with one aspect of my life, my diet? Or is it a ethical, environmental, spiritual choice that I made in order to attempt to live my life as kindly as possible. Respecting my planet, and its inhabitants, including my own body?
As a vegetarian I admit I was prone to falling into the first, obsessive camp. I had to have a separate BBQ, section in the freezer, and kitchen utensils to my more carnivorous friends. I would secretly check the packaging of food presented to me in search of the green V. I'd turned down food my mum had lovingly prepared because it contained a spoonful of non vegetarian pesto... This was me until I lived and travelled for two years in south east Asia. Although I remained a vegetarian in diet and principle, there was one constant hidden challenge... Fish sauce! Fish sauce is used in SE Asian cooking like salt and pepper is used in the UK. It's everywhere! And despite always requesting it to be left out, it simply wasn't always an option. It's like when I asked my lovely Thai friend and colleague to prepare some food for a friend without garlic or chilli (due to allergies) and it arrived with both... Her response was a sheepish smile and ‘yeah but only a little!’ , she just wanted it to taste good. I could go on all day with similar tales of humour/ horror (fertilised eggs anyone?!) But il leave that to another day.
So it was during my travelling in Asia that I decided/ learned to relax a little. I still ordered my food without fish sauce, but I also accepted that I had to eat! Loved Asian food! And that I felt it was kinder all round to enjoy the delicious food, made with love, and ignore the occasional suspicion of fish sauce. My principles remained the same, my heart was in the right place!
This is the attitude I am taking with me throughout India. I am trying my best! I am chosing peace and acceptance and respecting a culture which is not mine over my anxiety to remain staunchly vegan! Im championing experience over control! My principles remain the same! But I am not about to turn my hungry nose up against an offer of food for the fear it contains a spoonful of ghee. Nor am i about to waste it! (Saying that, there's usually someone willing to take unwanted food - a cycle rickshaw driver seemed very pleased with my mint, lime - and masala spiced?!? - drink which wasn't to my taste.....) Indian people are unbelievably hospitable, generous and kind. And they love to feed you! In my month here I have been given so so many sweets to try, and did I mention unlimited thali plates?! We often have to stop the servers as they keep happily piling more food onto the already full plate/ banana leaf!
I drink my chai black (its just as sweet and delicious and good) and I don't eat ice cream or panneer. But I also learn every day, sometimes it means reluctantly cutting something out of my diet (parotta sometimes contains egg...) And other times its pearls of vegan wisdom which make my food journey even more amazing!
Myth 1) ghee is hidden in everything.
I was under the false impression that ghee would be in India what fish sauce was in SE Asia. However that is not the case (and it makes sense why). Simply, ghee is expensive, oil is cheap. A couple of new Indian friends informed me of this along with this second nugget of useful advice...
2) steer clear of PURE VEG restaurants. Youd think that was illogical however as it happens, PURE VEG is higher quality, specialty vegetarian food = ghee is used and its more expensive. Whereas VEG / NON VEG usually seems to mean VEG (and also offers one fish dish) - this appears to be true for south India at least.
3) Eggs are considered NON VEG!! Which means you're about 90% sure that eggs won't be sneaking into your food! (This is my own perception over time, so do check! But eggs are always in the NON VEG section of menus)
The food in India is beyond delicious! We tend to eat in the small, simple eateries full of local people. It usually means good, cheap, plentiful food! And is the most likely to be vegan! They may not be the prettiest establishments but you can't knock the food, the service, or the cleanliness!!
The important lessons I seem to be learning are to relax, learn, and enjoy the challenge and experience! Also, communicate! Wherever you are in the world! Veganism comes up as a conversation topic so often without me even trying! And isn't that part of the vegan lifestyle? To gently, kindly spread the word, educate, inform. Not embarrass, alienate and insult! Don't be afraid to ask questions or ask for alternatives! Most people are so happy to help, whether or not they think you're a bit mad.
For me, veganism is about kindness. So be kind to yourself! Try your best! stay true to yourself! But give yourself some slack! Have a sense of humour! Veganism is a lifestyle choice, and it will be a much easier one if you don't give yourself an anxiety attack trying to stick to it!
If the thought of accidentally consuming a small amount of dairy makes you feel disgusted and sick, stick to what you know is safe! And enjoy the abundance of fruit and nuts on offer in India (and around the world!) - bring a foldable knife! It's my one tip! Mangos all day long!
But if you can occasionally turn a blind eye to a forbidden taste of ghee and try again tomorrow, don't beat yourself up about it either. That's my advice! And the advice I give to myself too! It all depends on your priorities. I truly admire staunch vegans who won't accept anything less, but I'm also learning to accept that my priorities lie in my experiences and my willingness to live the kindest I can, in the most peaceful way I can.
I hope someone somewhere finds this helpful and informative! Go forth vegans into the world and be inspirational and wonderful! :)