#tailcoat

A Gentleman's Blue and Green Voided Velvet Tailcoat, French, c. 1800

Victorian men in Spanx: it's more likely than you think

This is a wool tailcoat, ca. 1890-1910, currently held by the Fashion Research Collection of Toronto Metropolitan University. It is the second coat from this period that I've encountered with this odd pad stitching under the arm. According to Melissa at Sempstress and my good friend Skeff (@silverkleptofox), sewist and tailor extraordinaire, this method of close stitching is used to fuse lining layers to interfacing and provide structural reinforcement (especially around shoulders and collars).

Of course, I can't take this precious garment apart to find out if it is interfaced under these pad stitches. However, the stitched areas are significantly stiffer -- whether that is thanks to the stitches alone or an inner layer, I am unsure -- than the surrounding material. The overall effect is of a smooth, cinched waist in keeping with the conical style so popular among fashionable men at this time.

Look at these guys. Snatched.

Sources:

Menswear Black Wool Formal Tailcoat and Trousers. 1890s-1910s. Textile. Toronto Metropolitan University Fashion Research Collection. Catalog No. 2013.99.034 AB.

Heavily Modified Laughing Moon Mercantile # 124 Tailcoat. All Hand sewn; made of 7oz/yd^2 linen exterior, 8oz/yd^2 hemp canvas, 100gsm linen lining. Some linen tape was used to bind the raw edge of the mariners cuff. Eight 1 inch round brass buttons and eight 3/8 inch onion dome brass buttons. All raw edges either blanket stitched or catch stitched.

Major changed from the pattern I have made:

-Sew wrong sides together. Catch stitching is fun! Fell Is enjoyable too.

-Reduced from double breasted to single breasted.

-Changed stand-and-fall Collar to stand-or-fall.

-Made the interfacing reach out to surround pocket for more strength.

-The Sleeves have a 0" cap height for better dexterity.

-As well as a lengthened Mariners Cuff for rolling above the elbow.

-Bottom Front was lowered to cover waistband of Trousers.

-Shrunk the tail pleats to half their original length. (Bad idea, but not horrible. Looks fine.)

With cuff visible

Back

All top Layers of my outfit

-Waistcoat; Yellow 7oz/yd^2 Linen

-Cravat; Blue+Red 3.7oz/yd^2 Linen (33in X 33in)

-Shirt; Natural 4.13 oz/yd^2 Linen

Make a bold statement with the Eternal Midnight Velvet Tail Coat—where gothic elegance meets modern style with its luxurious velvet fabric and intricate embroidered details!