#southwheeling

WHEELING, W.VA. – With warmer weather arriving, Wheeling's city pools are preparing to welcome swimmers back beginning Saturday, June 6.

The city’s four pools will be open throughout the summer season with the following schedules: Bridge Park, Wheeling Island will be closed on Mondays and Tuesdays; Grandview, Wheeling Heights will be closed on Tuesdays; 36th Street, South Wheeling will be closed on Wednesdays; and Garden Park in Warwood will be closed on Thursdays

All pools will operate from noon to 6 p.m., weather permitting.

“We’re excited to open our pools and provide a safe, fun place for families to gather and enjoy the summer,” said Parks and Recreation Director Rochelle Barry. “Our staff has worked hard to prepare for the season, and we look forward to welcoming the community back for another great summer at our City pools.”

New to the pools this year, kids will have an opportunity to attend Storytime at the Pool thanks to a partnership with the Ohio County Public Library. And for the adults, numerous water wellness classes will be held at the various locations. This programming is made possible by a grant from Try This WV. To view the full schedule, visit https://www.wheelingwv.gov/departments/Parks-Recreation/pool-facilities 

(Publisher's Note: This is the second and final chapter on the history of the historic incline.)

Fox Hunts and a Bear Feast

Throughout the first year of the park animals played a major theme, intentionally, and unintentionally.

In the summer of 1893, a black cow had taken up residence at the park. The newspaper reported that “he is a sociable fellow and makes up with visitors right along.” During the fall of 1893 an “uncommonly large black cat” made a new home in the Mozart Park engine room. Because the cat was believed to bring good luck, he was reported as being fed very well.  

In January of 1894, 400 people and 25 dogs went up the incline for a foxhunt. It was reported the fox was given a 250-yard head start, the dogs were unleashed, and a Wheeling hound captured the fox and tore it limb from limb.

A zoo also was planned at the park, and one of the first animals on display was a black bear named Bruin. Bruin had lived in a cage at the park for about a year when it was decided that he was becoming a nuisance and an unnecessary expense, and unfortunately for Bruin, the park's solution was a bear feast.

Bruin was slaughtered and frozen, and the park geared for a February feast that was scheduled to take place on George Washington’s birthday. Events included games, bowling in the afternoon, and the feast began at 5 p.m. in the restaurant. The event was predicted to be “one of the nicest events at the park.” 

The festivities went as planned and were enjoyed by all, but those who had taken part in the bear feast said that Bruin meat was very tough.   

The incline connected residents of South Wheeling to Mozart Park.

The South Side Bowling Team

Bowling was one of the park's greatest pleasures and a very popular sport during the era.  South Wheeling even had its own bowling team that was sponsored by Henry Schmulbach, and it was called the South Side Bowling team. 

On February 20, 1894, after beating the Intelligencer Team in Wheeling, Schmulbach took the team to Gavin’s Hotel on Main Street which specialized in choice wines, liquors, and meals at all hours. Schmulbach paid for all of the club’s expenses and the newspaper reported, “after the feast, a general good time was had till late in the night.” 

On another occasion, 25 employees from the Schmulbach Brewing Company went bowling at the park. They split into two teams, drivers vs. the workmen. The drivers won, and all reported they had a pleasant time. 

A plethora of social events took place at Mozart Park because it was fully equipped with food and beverages.

A World of Entertainment at Mozart

Throughout the year 1894, the grounds of the park continued to be developed, and buildings expanded and were finished until the park would be able to boast the following features: a dancing pavilion, a casino, restaurant, bowling alleys, an outdoor stage, and a one-third long bicycle track. 

When the bicycle track was being excavated, workers discovered an ancient burial site that contained skeletons of two human beings. It was believed the site dated back to the times of the mound builders. The skeletal remains were passed into the hands of park employees and have since disappeared.  

During the spring of 1894, the park’s closing time was 8 p.m., but after the installation of electric lights, the closing time was changed to 11 p.m. Sixty arc lights were installed along with hundreds of incandescent lights that were wired to the Schmulbach Brewing Company, which contained its own power plant.  

Success and popularity continued with the second season of Mozart Park. One of the season’s first major events was a celebration for Decoration Day (which would be later known as Memorial Day). On this special day, the park announced it would award a silk parasol and umbrella to the best lady and gentlemen waltzer.  

Another major event during the summer of 1894 occurred on July 1. On this day Mozart Park entertained students from Wheeling’s public schools. A total of about 4,000 students and parents attended the event, and each group was given a basket lunch. Students played games on the grass, bowled, and danced. One girl, though, 14 years of age, had a sunstroke while dancing on the pavilion, but she was revived by a physician.  

Paranormal investigator Karl Crabtree joined Ryan Stanton and Brittany Fehr in the basement of the Schmulbach Mansion.

Schmulbach’s Make-A-Wish Surprise

In November of 1894, Henry Schmulbach attended the park for the evening, and after watching his team bowl a few games (which they lost), Schmulbach decided to leave, but he was asked to stop at Mozart Hall. He was under the impression he was going to be attending a birthday party for a friend, but he soon realized it was a party to celebrate his 50th birthday.  

Speeches were given, and about 60 guests joined in dancing and refreshments.  

One of the largest and most controversial events to ever take place at Mozart Park occurred on July 23, 1895. 

It was called the Centennial Celebration, which was meant to commemorate the formation of the town government of Wheeling. Because this was meant to be such a civic-minded celebration, there were some in Wheeling who frowned upon the idea that this event was to take place in a beer garden. 

The main person who led this protest was Dr. Albert Riker of the 4th Street Methodist Church. 

Some of the streets are still named the same as they were when Schmulbach made the area one of the most popular in Wheeling.

Mozart Park vs. Prohibition 

Dr. Riker led lectures about what he called the evils of society, such as alcohol, gambling, theatres, and dancing – among many other topics.  

One lecture claimed that Wheeling drinkers spent over $4,000 a day, which added up to over a million dollars a year. One of his most well-noted lectures across the East Coast was titled “What Shall We do with the Boys?” In Dr. Riker’s lecture against the celebration taking place at Mozart Park, he said, “Some say it is not a beer garden. It is a beer garden. It is nothing better. It exists for the sale of beer, and it has no other object.” 

Riker would go on to say that Mozart himself must be turning over in his grave and that his bones rattle with holy horror, because such a place is named after him. Riker continued by saying even though cities such as Cincinnati, Chicago, and New York are wicked cities, even they would not hold their city’s centennial celebration in a beer garden.   

Riker went on to say Wheeling was setting up an altar to Grambrinus and declaring him king (who was the king/God of beer). He closed his sermon by urging people to think of the children, the Sunday schools of this city, and not attend the celebration.  

One of more than 10 buildings Schmulbach had constructed on his Roney's Point property was this spacious greenhouse.

German Heritage Fights Back

On the day of the celebration, the weather was threatening but did not stop the approximately 1,500 people who made their way up to the park for opening celebrations. At about 2 p.m., special guests made their way south from the McLure House to the top of the hill where they gave animated speeches about the founding and history of Wheeling.  

In an address given by Dr. Ulrich, he described his journey from Germany and his arrival in Wheeling in 1836 at age 10. He also referred to the great influence exerted by the German citizens of Wheeling and said because of their power it could be said Wheeling was half German. He went on to eulogize the city, its parks, and suburban railroads – specifically Wheeling Park and the Elm Grove Railroad, which had been started by Germans. 

He ended his speech by saying that some reference had been made at a recent pulpit utterance against the holding of the celebration in a beer garden, and he said that “although a man might have to pass 25 saloons a day, he need not go in and drink, and in the like manner he might attend a pleasure ground where beer was sold, among other things, without sacrificing either character or convictions. 

The beer element, he said, had done much for Wheeling, and could be depended upon to do more in the future, despite such uncalled for and unseemly attacks.  

As evening approached, attendance at the park increased. At 6 p.m. streetcars in downtown Wheeling and Benwood were filled to capacity while a steady stream of pleasure seekers poured into the lower station building of the incline. By 7 p.m. the streetcars arriving at 43rd Street were not only crowded but men could be seen holding on to the cars with every protection. 

By 9 p.m. there were between 8,000 and 9,000 people at the park. The evening ended with fireworks, and it was long after midnight until the last group descended the incline to go home.  

These types of events described here would continue throughout the existence of Mozart Park. Groups such as the Mozart and Beethoven singing societies made Mozart Park their home.  Other groups and organizations such as post-office employees, grocers, and locomotive engineers held events at the park. 

Operas and vaudeville shows were popular and attended at the park, along with other types of amusements such as balloon ascension and parachute jumps. Sadly, the balloon failed to hold air and ripped. 

Another major event was the musical production “Battles of Our Nation,” which had scenes from the wars of 1776, 1812, and 1861-65, and a cast of over 200 people. It was performed on the outdoor stage.  

The park continued to prosper but took a major hit when prohibition was passed in West Virginia in 1913 and was implemented in 1914. Part of the park’s entertainment and the atmosphere was the beer garden, which was a major part of German heritage and culture was forced to close. 

As Schmulbach was also forced to close the brewery on 33rd street, one can only imagine the stress and anxiety Schmulbach went through as he closed an industry he made very powerful in Wheeling. Two years later, in 1915, Henry Schmulbach died, but the park remained open until 1918. 

After Schmulbach’s death, the park activity and entertainment gradually dwindled. With the outbreak of World War I and anti-German sentiment, the park was unable to withstand its financial capabilities. Afterward, the executors of Schmulbach’s estate began selling portions of the park, and that is how the community of Mozart started.

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Ever wonder why Wheeling is home to a community named after the classical composer Mozart? Or why, while driving through the community of Mozart, you’ll find street names such as Park Road, Incline Avenue, Lower Incline Avenue, and even the Incline Bar?

That’s because in South Wheeling there was once an incline that rose above the hills of South Wheeling to an awe-inspiring park with endless attractions and striking views.

Henry Schmulbach was one of Wheeling’s most successful beer barons and one of the wealthiest men in the state of West Virginia, but one of his proudest accomplishments was the creation of Mozart Park above the hills in South Wheeling. This article is part 1 of 2 that will go over the history of the property, the construction of the park, and the incline railway that would hoist visitors to one of the most premier parks in the tri-state area. 

The idea for Mozart Park started with Schmulbach’s vision of a park for the people of South Wheeling. The park would open in 1892, but as early as 1880, Schmulbach offered an area of Wheeling Island for a park, which he owned and operated as a racetrack. The only park in Ohio County was Hornbrook Park, which was eventually purchased by Wheeling brewery entrepreneur Anton Reymann, and would be later known as Wheeling Park.

Motorists and passengers can still see where the incline was located above South Wheeling.

A Proper Park

It was argued, though, that the people of South Wheeling did not have a proper park in their own neighborhood, and this is where Schmulbach stepped in to fulfill their dreams. 

The original site for Mozart Park was called the Frazier Farm and was purchased in 1892 for $13,000. The farm was high atop a hill that overlooked South Wheeling, and at one time had been a large peach orchard. Additional lots were purchased in 1893 which brought the total land purchases to $17,300.

The parks site was also conveniently located near the Schmulbach Brewing Company which was located on 33rd street, and the park would serve as an exclusive outlet for Schmulbach beer. During the early stages of the park there was a lot of construction activity. Workers were busy constructing the main building that was to contain a bar, billiard room, bowling alley, reception rooms, a large hall, and toilet rooms.

The first official gathering at Mozart Park occurred in July of 1892 and was an exclusive event for members of the Mozart singing society, and the group had picnics in the orchards. The park opened to the public in the following year in July of 1893, and its official grand opening occurred on October 25, 1893.

Although the park was in an ideal location away from the overcrowding and smells of the city, transportation to the park proved to be very difficult. If you wanted to visit the park you either had to walk or take a wagon up to the park. That is why in the spring of 1893 construction began on an incline railway; similar to what was already being used in Pittsburgh and Cincinnati.  The base of the incline was located near present-day 43rd Street. 

This rendering was of the structure in which food and beverages once were served.

With all of the construction occurring at the park, it proved to be a very dangerous place. In June of 1893, a stone weighing 1,400 pounds was being elevated onto a sled for use on the incline when it broke loose and crashed down the hillside. It came within two feet of Jacob Brown’s house.

A woman with a baby in her arms was standing near the gate of her home and barely had enough time to move before the stone crashed through the fence and into a coal house. The boulder did not stop until in crashed through another fence. 

Later in June of 1893, stone taken from the quarry near Mozart Park was ruled unfit for use and stone from a different quarry was secured. In July of 1893, a horse pulling a wagon loaded with brick lost footing near the top of the incline. The horse went over and down the hillside and hit a fence enclosing the park.

The wagon was smashed and the horse was injured considerably. On another occasion, a driver was struck by lightning and rendered unconscious for half an hour, but eventually recovered. The horse was not injured. 

Although nothing exists today from the former park, the residents of South Wheeling once enjoyed the lavish setting.

A Grand Opening

Also, in July of 1893, a gang of workmen uncovered a large stone and found a copperhead snake that “sprang at them.” The snake was killed and reported as being very thick and nearly 3 feet long. On another occasion workers killed a black snake; its length was 6 feet 4 inches.

October 24, 1893, was the grand opening of the incline railway. Henry Bue (who also designed the Mingo Indian statue atop Wheeling Hill) was the park’s manager and he said the incline cost a total of $32,000.

At 4:15 p.m., members of the board of directors for Mozart Park invited guests, and the press were ready to be hoisted 940 feet to the top of the hill with steam and coal power. Each car could seat 28 people comfortably, but on its maiden voyage, 33 were crowded into the car.

Once atop the hill, guests toured the grounds of the park, which at that time contained a building with four bowling alleys, a bar room, a dancing pavilion with an elevated section for the orchestra, and a capacity of 5,000 people (the largest in the state), and gardens with plenty of seating to enjoy the scenic views. One visitor from Germany said, “no scenery along the Rhine could compare with it.”

The area in Mozart has been developed into a residential neighborhood.

On the second day of operation for the incline, plans did not go so well.  A cross head on one of the engines broke, and repairs were not made until late in the day which forced many visitors to either leave or make the trek uphill. By November of 1893, the incline was running smoothly. Cars were run every 2 minutes and could handle 1,200 people every hour. The cost to go up and down the incline was 10 cents.

The incline would remain open until 1907 until the Mozart Street Car Line took its place. By that time street cars were powerful enough to climb Caldwell’s Run Road to the park.

Part 2 of this story will discuss some events that took place at the park and how this one-time getaway for Wheeling residents turned into the community of Mozart.