Sep 9, 2020
Along the Ganges during the Sonepur Mela Festival, Don McCullin, 1993
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Along the Ganges during the Sonepur Mela Festival, Don McCullin, 1993
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Coca Cola - Sonepur, India by Maciej Dakowicz https://flic.kr/p/KXV9Z1
Un sadhu lors d'un grand rassemblement hindou au Bihar. Ces "saints-hommes" sont très respectés par la population, parfois vénérés, parfois craints. Il a tout abandonné pour poursuivre ses recherches spirituelles. Il se déplace beaucoup, suivant le calendrier des rassemblements religieux, en groupe ou tous seul. En solo, quand la distance entre deux évènements est trop grande pour être effectuée à pied, il monte dans un train, sans billet, et nul contrôleur n'osera lui en demander.
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A sadhu at a large Hindu gathering in Bihar. These "holy men" are highly respected by the population, sometimes venerated, sometimes feared. He abandoned everything to pursue his spiritual quest. He travel a lot, following the calendar of religious gatherings, with a group or alone. Alone, when the distance between two events is too great to be done on foot, he gets on a train, without ticket, and no ticket inspector will dare control him.
Une nuit de novembre de pleine lune, sur les bords du Gange au Bihar, des milliers de pèlerins attendent le lever du soleil. Certains dorment, d'autres prient, se promènent,  mangent, discutent, ... Mais le plus interessant ce sont ces nombreuses petites cérémonies que l'on peut sans doute classer entre le chamanisme et les rites "tantriques". Au centre, on trouve un feu, dans lequel brûlent des plantes, encens, petits objets rituels. Il est alimenté par une personne qui communique avec les esprits. Ils sont relativement assez nombreux à pratiquer ces rites, assis ou debout, sautillant parfois, balançant la tête dans tous les sens. Ils sont accompagnés de musiciens (tambours, cymbales, ...) et d'assistants. Ils entrent en transe, prennent une drôle de voix, parlent aux esprits de la nature, communiquent avec les morts, chassent les fantômes, ... Ils délivrent une parole venue d'ailleurs, ils sont tour à tour sages, thérapeutes, conseillers, guérisseurs et voyants, devins... C'est un spectacle incroyable, absolument fascinant, plongeant ses racines dans les lointaines traditions ancestrales indiennes.
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A full moon November night, on the banks of the Ganges in Bihar, thousands of pilgrims are waiting for the sunrise. Some sleep, others pray, walk, eat, discuss, ... But the most interesting are the many small ceremonies that can probably be classified between shamanism and "tantric" rites. In the center, there is a fire, in which are burning plants, incense, small ritual objects. It is supplyed by a person who communicates with spirits. They are relatively numerous enough to practice these rites, sitting or standing, sometimes jumping, swinging their heads in all directions. They are accompanied by musicians (drums, cymbals, ...) and assistants. They go into a trance, take a strange voice, talk to the spirits of nature, communicate with the dead, hunt ghosts, ... They deliver a word from elsewhere, they are wise, therapists, counselors, healers and seers, diviners ... This is an incredible show, absolutely fascinating, rooted in the distant Indian ancestral traditions.
Le rassemblement (mela) de Sonepur (Bihar) est organisé depuis au moins le règne de Chandragupta Maurya, (né vers -340 – et décédé vers -291 av. J.-C., fondateur de l'empire Maurya), qui venait y acheter des éléphants et des chevaux. C'est ainsi qu'est née la plus grande foire aux bestiaux d'Asie. Dans le bestiaire de la foire, on trouve officiellement : oiseaux sauvages et de basse-cour, lapins, singes, chèvres, ânes, chevaux, buffles, dromadaires, et surtout des éléphants, véritables vedettes de la fête. Officieusement on trouverait toutes sortes d'animaux protégés (ours, serpents, ...). Officiels et riches indiens viennent admirer les pachydermes. Le plus surprenant, mais tellement indien, c'est que le commerce des éléphants est illégal en Inde !
************************** The gathering (mela) of Sonepur (Bihar) has been organized since at least the reign of Chandragupta Maurya, (born around -340 - and died around -291 BC, founder of the Maurya empire) who bought elephants and horses here. Thus was born the largest cattle fair in Asia. In the bestiary of the fair, one finds officially: wild birds and poultry, rabbits, monkeys, goats, donkeys, horses, buffaloes, dromedaries, and elephants, real celebrities of the festival. Unofficially one would find all kinds of protected animals (bears, snakes, ...).Officials and wealthy Indians come to admire the pachyderms. The most surprising, but so Indian, is that the trade of elephants is illegal in India!
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Cette femme porte quelques litres d'eau boueuse dans son bidon. Mais vous avez sans doute deviné que cette eau vient directement du Gange, un jour faste lors d'un grand  rassemblement hindou, et est donc sacrée. Elle va sans doute en donner un peu à sa famille, ses amis, proches, voisins, ... et s'en garder pour ses pujas. Cette eau boueuse est une vraie bénédiction.
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This woman carries a few liters of muddy water in her can. But you have probably guessed that this water comes directly from the Ganges, a special day at a great Hindu gathering, and is therefore sacred. She will undoubtedly give a little to her family, her friends, relatives, neighbors, ... and keep some for her pujas. This muddy water is a true blessing.
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