#snake keeping

@talesfromtreatment and I have an ask for our fellow corn snake keepers and breeders.

We're gathering information on corn snake size by age and we need community scientists like you to provide the largest possible body of data.

@talesfromtreatment will be using the information gathered to build an accurate, statistics-supported corn snake growth and feeding guide based on ACTUAL data from ACTUAL corn snake keepers like you! I'm just the numbers gal.

Here's what we need:

Your snake's age (in years)

Your snake's weight (in grams)

A top-down photo of your snake's entire body with an inch or centimeter reference. (see photo below)

All of this information entered in our online form, linked below or copy/pasta: https://forms.gle/QtAwmiFa6fpBewFs8

https://forms.gle/QtAwmiFa6fpBewFs8

We'd love to get data on older snakes, younger snakes, fatter snakes, skinnier snakes. If you've got a corn snake we want their age, weight, and a photo of them with a measuring device.

Photos don't need to be fancy, just give us a top-down view of your snake and a ruler/tape measure/yardstick on a flat surface.

The survey is anonymous and we won't share your photos with anyone nor use them for any purpose beyond collecting morphometric data for this specific study.

Please please please help us collect as much data as possible. Share with your reptile-keeping friends, signal boost, submit your metrics, and stay tuned for updates!

This is disastrous for reptile keepers.

Due to a regulation enacted by the Department of Energy (DOE) back in 2022 that aimed at improving energy efficiency for lightbulbs found in the average American home, companies that make essential pet products like heat lamps for reptiles, are now being told to remove them from shelves across America because of the light bulbs they contain. That means removing access to vital lamp products that pet owners need to make sure their pets stay healthy and thriving.  

She's been very inactive, presumably due to pain but I think the cream has been helping / she's otherwise in less pain since over the last couple days I've noticed she's been out and about more. Still not normal levels of activity as in pre-injury, but not spending pretty much all her time hiding away like she has been lately. On top of that when I take her out for the actual disinfections she doesn't seem to want to go back into her enclosure, seeming to want to have a wander around which, again, in contrast, lately she seemed to have just went straight back into her enclosure and into her hide the moment I was done with disinfection.

Gender hasn't been able to identified thus far, so, Hermés remains without a gender.

Both cats saying hello to their new sibling.

General

Royal pythons, better known as ball pythons are a species of constrictor snake from West Africa. Ball pythons are known for rolling up into a ball. They come in hundreds of different morphs (patterns and colors) with thousands of different morph combinations. Ball pythons range from 3-5 feet with females tending to be larger. They live about 20-30 years. They tend to be incredibly docile snakes that don't mind being handled.

Husbandry

Ball pythons have very specific husbandry needs. One end of the tank needs to be a warm basking area and one needs to be cooler, so all heat sources should be placed at one end of the tank. The required temperatures are about

Basking surface temperature: 95-104°F (35-40°C)

Warm hide temperature: 86-90°F (30-32°C)

Cool hide temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)

Nighttime temperature: 70-78°F (21-26°C)

Fahrenheit is a more suitable measurement because of the smaller increments. The air temperature should never reach more than 95°F.

Ball pythons need plenty of hiding spaces, at least one hide on each end of the tank, preferably more depending on the size of the snake. Along with hides, they should have plenty of rocks, leaves, and branches to feel comfortable. While ball pythons are not arboreal (living in trees) many will climb if given the opportunity, so climbing space is also useful. A basking rock or branch in the hot end of the tank is also important. They need at least 6 inches of substrate that retains moisture well. Pythons are diggers and the depth is important. Coconut fiber and sphagnum moss are a good mixture to help retain humidity. Ball pythons require 60% humidity to thrive and so a water-retaining substrate is helpful, along with a large water bowl, daily mistings, and a humid hide. The snake also needs a heavy water bowl large enough for the snake to lie in but shallow enough to avoid drowning.

Growing ball pythons can be fed rodents no larger than the thickest part of the snake once every 7-10 days. Adult ball pythons can be fed once every other week. They should always be fed with tongs. Do not feed your snake if they are in shed. You will know they are in shed by a blue coating over their eyes.

Handling

Ball pythons almost always take well to handling and depending on the temperament of the snake can even enjoy it. It's best to tap train them which involves taking a paper towel roll or something extended from the hand beside the feeding tongs and tapping the snake every time it's taken out to be handled. This helps let the snake know that it is not being fed. It is important to pay attention to the snake's body language. If it seems stressed (tensing, bucking, heavy breathing) you should return it to its enclosure. A happy snake will have slow tongue flicks. A ball python (this depends on the snake but as a rule) should only be handled once daily for about an hour. You should not handle the snake for a few days before or after feeding it as this can cause it to go off food or regurgitate respectively. You should not handle your snake if they are in shed unless they have stuck shed. There are multiple ways to remove stuck shed including placing the snake in warm water or placing a warm wet towel on the snake.

Difficulties

Ball pythons are an incredibly popular snake. This unfortunately leads to a lot of mishandling. Snakes are kept in enclosures much too small with much too few hiding spaces. An adult ball python requires an enclosure that's at least 4x2x2 feet. Ball pythons tend to be very picky eaters. There are many reasons that they may go off food including improper enclosure conditions, handling before meal time, shed, and you look at them wrong. Feeding live is a controversial topic in snake keeping though I'm personally against it as it can be incredibly dangerous for the snake.

In snake breeding, there are several morphs associated with neurological issues including any spider, bee, champagne, spotnose, and woma morphs. These morphs are intrinsically linked with what is known as the wobble. The wobble is a neurological condition that can cause a snake to have difficulty keeping itself upright. It may lift its upper body so far that it falls back on itself (stargazing) and it may also turn its head in circles multiple times (corkscrewing). These behaviors create an incredibly stressful life for the snake.

Common conditions include:

Mouth Rot: an infection of the mouth that can be noticed by white or red puss in the mouth

Parasites: Internal parasites are often hard to spot but general unwellness (regurgitation, diarrhea, infection) in the snake should warrant a visit to the vet

Ticks and Mites: They can be hard to spot sometimes, especially with a dark or spotted snake but lifting up the snake's scales can reveal them attached to the skin

Skin Infection: It can be caused by an enclosure that is dirty or too moist and is noticed by red skin and blisters

Respiratory Infections: They can be noticed if a snake is blowing bubbles with their nose, yawning frequently not after a meal, wheezing, and gurgling sounds Inclusion