#slowsewing

NOTES ON ACCESSIBILITY:

This pattern requires a back zipper. I am mostly able-bodied but I do have chronic back pain and I don’t have a huge range of shoulder flexibility. The back zip is a barrier to ease of use. If I am having a bad pain day, getting in and out of this garment would be very challenging.

This is the summer of flowy skirt/poofy sleeve dresses! I was initially inspired by The Sundaze Dress by  @les.perlines and @sarbernier on IG. I was really shook by @hopeineveryseam and @thalias__thread ‘s rendition of this design

I still want to buy this pattern, but I was definitely looking for a particular bust shape.  I found and purchased vintage McCall’s 7652 (printed 1995) because of the multiple panels around the bust and waist. 

Blackbird Fabric had a light rayon with the best name: Stippled Frond in Wisteria, Ivory, and Rust. I saw it a few months ago, but I had no project in mind for it. I have a rule that I won’t buy new fabric if I don’t already have a design in mind. When I purchased my vintage pattern, I knew the Stippled Fond was a perfect match. 🙂

Grading the pattern was a new challenge. The pattern is designed to be form-fitting, but it is not intended for stretch/knit fabrics. That means I had to be very precious in my measuring and cutting process so that I didn’t end up with anything too tight or too boxy. Woven fabric has no give or  negative ease, so I had to be careful.  I knew if I rushed this, I wouldn’t have a final product that I loved. It took real effort to practice patience and move slowly with this garment.

I graded between three sizes: size 20 bust to size 22 waist to size 18 hip.

The rayon by itself seemed too fragile - I am a person who has muscle and wears hard on my clothing. To strengthen the garment, I lined each panel with material from a thrifted bedsheet (according to the tag, it was 100% egyptian silk - I really hope it is!).

I wanted to wear the pattern as is, but I had to add a belt. I have boobs and a stomach and hips but due to the distribution of my *wonderful* body fat, I am almost a rectangle. As a result, the majority of the garment was pulling on the neckline, which is elastic. I was worried about the neckline stretching out and potentially exposing my boobs. For this reason I thrifted a belt to hold up some of the fabric. In the end, I think it turned out very cute and I’m not mad at it! 😂

Hello! 

I think around August last year I decided I was going to find and fit the “perfect” pants pattern. Why? Well, pants shopping has never been affirming for me. I have a bit of a lower belly and a swayback and my hips and stomach are several sizes apart. For that reason, I have found that leggings are usually the most comfortable option. BUT…

I think pants are really fun! I love the different silhouettes that pants can create. From super relaxed to ultra fit, pants look good and can help people explore their personal style. I wanted to look and feel good in pants in the silhouettes that I preferred and thus, I started my pants block journey. 

If you’re new to sewing, here's a definition of the term “block” from In The Folds online article entitled “Issue 55 - What is a pattern block?” : A pattern block is a foundation pattern that patternmakers use as a base or foundation when drafting patterns. 

In my words, it means a starting place for a garment I want to adjust/fit. For example, I am starting with a basic pant pattern and I will adjust it for my specific body measurements. In the future I won’t need to adjust the pattern and I will be able to make another pair in the exact style. If I want to change features such as length, pockets, or zippers I can easily do so because I know that the pattern will already fit my body. 

I know that was repeitive but hopefully someone who needs it one day can stumble across my blog and have their questions answered. :)

The pants pattern I used as my block was the Vintage 1950’s Pants Pattern sold by EnbonpointVintage on Etsy. It’s not just a pattern, it's a drafting system. The PDF print out comes with a miniature pattern piece and the ruler to grade it to a full-sized pattern piece. I did have to buy a yardstick to help me draw lines. 

Unfortunately it’s not as simple as it advertises. It’s not beginner friendly and I would say only take this one if you’ve already made a few pants or are ready to draft your own waistband and know how to install a zipper. There are no instructional steps for construction, it is assumed you will already know how to do that.

After adjusting this pattern for my stomach, hips, and back I was very satisfied with the result.

This is a high-waisted pants with pleats and side zip

The fabric I used here is some lovely Ankara print from The House Of Mami Wata. These pants brings me greats joy and I can't wait to find more ways to style them.

For my second pair, I adjusted the crotch rise and the back rise and slimmed down the legs a bit.

This version is high-waisted, lined with a light cotton, include a side zipper and pleats.

This fabric is a light, poplin type cotton from JanesDoesVintage on Etsy. It's a super cute pink and black houndstooth print.

Overall, I am feeling very happy with my pants! For my next step I'd like to try a heavier weight fabric like corduroy or twill.

Signing off for now,

Me, next to a giant pumpkin, at the Stillwater Autumn Fest

Fall might be my new favorite season! This year I am fully leaning into the pumpkin-spiced lattes, autumn outfits, and slower pace of life. My creativity tends to peak in the summer (thank you, sun!) and by October or November the ideas that were bursting to life in my brain are settling like falling leaves. In the past I didn't appreciate that, but as I get older I have realized that it's totally okay to not be on 100 all year round. Constantly creating takes a toll on my mental health and my budget.

In my last blog, I talked about goals for clothing/sewing projects that will last me a long a time. I don't want to be buying new fabric every month and making garments that I can't wear and love for years to come. So here is an update on the progress I've made concerning those goals.

Finding a pants pattern that I love

I tried to make the #PietraPants by #ClosetCorePatterns . I adjusted the pattern for my body, but this found that fit to be baggy and boxy. I am rectangle shaping, with my bust, waist, and hip measurements being within inches of each other, and I found that the wide leg Pietra Pants didn't accentuate my legs or butts in the way I wanted.

My next attempt is going to be a 50's style Cigarette Pant. I like the slimmer fit and it will hopefully display my assets more than a wide leg pant. I found a promising sewing pattern/instruction guide on how to make a cigarette pant based on personal measurements. I like it because I wanted a vintage pattern but couldn't find a lot available in my size.

Plus Size (or any size) Vintage 1950s Pants Pattern - PDF

The pattern is from Etsy and is described as such: "it's a drafting system...whether you want this garment for a doll or plus-size person you will be able to make this fit perfectly."

2. Learning to clean my wool sweaters.

I have made some progress here! I washed one camel-hair cardigan and one wool turtleneck. By hand washing the garments I hoped to preserve the shape of each one. The washing part was easy; the hard part was the drying. Both garments took almost four days to air dry; I tried to squeeze the water out of the sweater and I stretched it. The cardigan and sweater are still very wearable so I'd call this a success.

3. Billowing, pleated skirt

I haven't started this project yet, but I did realize that I can't just add pleats to a skirt that already has the waistband attached. My next step is to draft a skirt in a fabric I like and try making pleats!

4. Using fabric I already own

My aunt gifted me some really pretty fabric from South Africa earlier this year. I decided to use it to make a kaftan from my partner's birthday in July. It was only this week that I actually looked up a tutorial and cut the fabric. The kaftan looks nice, but he hasn't tried it on yet so we will see! I'm just glad to be tackling some of my stash and using what I have.

The pieces cut for a men's kaftan. This is before I attached the pieces together or cut out the neck hole.

I think I will do another blog post for this kaftan alone because the project has been super fun and surprisingly easy. Also, I want to share the finished look!

Signing off,