#shot silk

Striped Shot-Silk Dress

c. 1840

Adélaïde Labille-Guiard, Self-portrait with two pupils, 1785

Lucy, Countess of Carlisle by Anthonis van Dyck, 1637

Frances Stewart, Duchess of Richmond by Sir Peter Lely, ca. 1662

Young woman at her toilet with a servant by Gerard ter Borch, 1650

A Lady of the Spencer Family by Anthonis van Dyck, ca. 1633–8

Charles I and Henrietta Maria with their two eldest children, Prince Charles and Princess Mary by Anthonis van Dyck, 1632.

Shot silk in historical paintings

Shot silk is a plain-weave in which the warp is one color and the weft another. The result is complex new tints and shades wherever the fabric gets folded or creased. It was popular in 17th and 18th century, of course only for the very wealthy.

Antonio de la Gándara (French, 1861-1917) • Portrait de Madame Louisa de Mornand, également connu sous La Femme au chien (Women with a Dog) • 1907

Left: Shot silk dresses

Right: Day dress c. 1850′s • John Bright Historic Costume Collection

Two of four fashion plates from the Ladies Cabinet of Fashion for August of 1845. Descriptions are from pages 134 and 135 of the magazine.

MORNING CONCERT DRESS.

No. 3. — Muslin robe peignoir lined with pink gros de naples; the corsage made quite np to the throat with a small falling collar, which is edged with lace, is embroidered in feather stitch to the-waist. Long tight sleeves with close mancheron, and cuffs trimmed with lace. An embroidered montant descends from the waist, and is trimmed down the centre with nouds of pink ribbon; the sides and back of the border are embroidered; the hair is disposed in bands; a white tulle calotte is placed at the back of the head; a tuft of roses without foliage at each ear completes the coiffure.

EVENING DRESS.

No. 4. — Organdy robe, spotted in a light pattern; a low corsage descending en V over a lace guimpe; it is made with a pointed lappel cleft on each shoulder. Short tight sleeve, finished with two double biais set on full; the skirt is trimmed high with two very deep flounces; the hair is dressed in a profusion of ringlets at the sides and a full knot at the back of the head.

PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.

No.5. — Shaded silk robe; the corsage, high at the back and moderately open on the bosom, is trimmed with a pelerine lappel of two falls, festooned round the edges and forming a cœur; the sleeve is rather more than a three-quarter length, and partially open at the bottom. Cambric under sleeve and habit shirt. The skirt is trimmed with two festooned flounces; white crape capote, a close shape trimmed with white ribbon, and a half wreath of flowers.

No. 6. — Plaided gros de naples robe; a high corsage and three-quarter length sleeve over a cambric one. Muslin scarf lined with pink gros de naples, and trimmed with lace so disposed as to form a revers on the bust, and robings in, front. Blue poult de soie chapeau trimmed with blue ribbon, and crowned with a full white plume formed of the down of marabouts.

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Ribbed silk taffeta woven with light green and gold in opposing directions, collarless deep V neckline, long fitted sleeves, ruffled caps laced with tassled cords, sleeves lace with cord above wrists, fitted bodice ending in shallow center front point, pleated, ruffled and cord trimmed fabric radiates from center bodice point to shoulders, full gathered skirt trimmed with two vertical rows of self fabric bows down center front, piped seams, full glazed linen lining.