#scratch explains

1. Flat Drawstring Pouch

These are super easy in my opinion. You’ll need either a single piece that is significantly wider than it is high, which I usually make into version a or two scraps in about the same size, which I like to use for version b.

For version a, to make it a drawstring, we fold over the top edge (about 1,5cm/half an inch is usually enough) to the inside and sew that down close to that folded down fabric edge.

For version b, do the same for both pieces, but the fold over needs to be a bit bigger (about 3cm/an inch) as you need a little more space. Sew this down the same as version a, but add a second seam above, with a distance of about 1cm (~3/8th inch). If you have a twin needle, this might also be a use for it.

Then, for version a, you fold the wide piece in half and for version b you lay the two pieces on top of each other, outsides together in both cases. And then you sew shut all the sides you want to be closed.

Turn it inside out and – using a seam ripper or pair of snips – cut holes into the outer layer of fabric on each side of each side seam.

This means two holes for version a between the seam and top edge and four holes for version b, between the two seams.

(Only one side each depicted here, do the same on the back.)

Then you can thread a string or ribbon into one of the holes and through the channels you have sewn. I tie the string to a small safety pin as it is easier to push through the channel from the outside.

For version b you can either use two strings (one for each side) or one long one to go all the way around (by going out the hole on one side of the side seam and going into the one on the other side of the side seam).

Tie up the ends of your strings and you’ve got your drawstring bag!

2. Flat Zipper Bag

As a note: The zipper might prove challenging. However, it does present a great opportunity to try your hand on this dreaded piece of haberdashery. To make things easier on yourself I would recommend to avoid invisible or separating zippers and to make sure they’re not shorter than the longest item (e.g. the longest pen) you would like to fit through it.

Aside from the zipper you will need a roughly square piece of fabric. I usually just use the zipper as a ruler for one side, making sure that the whole scrap (so including seam allowance) is the same length as the tape. If you don’t quite have that, take e.g. the noted longest pen as reference and, as illustrated below, make sure that (in addition to seam allowance) one side of the square is the length of the pencil (L) and two of its heights (H).

The other side determines how much space we have in the pouch. So for our example we want it to be at least three pencil heights plus one extra for wiggle room (so 4*H). But we need this measure twice because a pouch generally has at least two sides, so all in all we’re at 8*H. Or you use whatever you have as long as it’s bigger than that. ;)

First of all we sew the zipper in. We determine the outside of both the zipper and the fabric and put them against each other, with one of the outer edges of the zipper tape aligned with the side that is supposed to be the opening. Pin it, then you sew it on with a straight stitch. If you’re using a normal foot (in contrast to a zipper foot, which should come with its own instructions), you can usually let it run along the teeth, as that will provide a great ruler to not get any wobbliness in your seam.

Tip: Make sure you’re not sewing too close to the zipper’s slider. I usually push it all the way to the opposing end of the zipper when I start sewing and when I’m halfway, I sink my needle into the fabric, lift the sewing foot and pull the slider all the way to the already sewn end before I lower the foot again and proceed to sew the other half.

You’ve attached one side of the zipper! Great! Now do the same thing on the other side, still making sure to lay outsides onto each other. You will end up with what looks like a zippable tube with the slider on the inside. Flatten the tube, pin it closed if necessary (the zipper tape might be a bit stubborn) and sew it close on both ends. (Careful to move the slider away from your needle!)

I like my zipper on one edge, but you can just as well flatten the tube so the zipper is centered on one of the sides.

Turn the whole thing inside out and TADA! Zipper pouch!

3. Circular Drawstring Pouch

This pouch is probably the easiest of the pouches as you only have to sew a channel around the edge and draw a string through. That channel, however, is basically a hem on a small circle. Which will prepare you for the pain of hemming circle skirts ;)

Once again you will have to cut holes for the drawstring to go in and it is fully a matter of taste if you do more than two holes, but they should be an even number.

4. Drawstring Pouch With Flat Bottom

This pouch has similarities with the other draw string pouch, but because of the flat bottom it is the only one that will stand on its own, which makes it a good shape for a bigger pouch. Nevertheless, it is still a good scrap project!

You will need a circular piece and a strip that is the length of the circle’s circumference and at least the height of the circle’s radius 6 cm / 2 inches.

(If you struggle to find the circle’s circumference and radius, I included the equations for both in the illustration below. The Diameter can be measured by folding the circle in half and measuring the fold.)

Fold over one of the long (top) edges and sew drawstring channels as described for the flat pouches. Then lay the bottom edge along the edge of the circle, pin and sew them together. You will hate it, as flats sewn to curves is the point of this, but it’s worth the effort.

Finally, sew the two short edges of the strip together and turn the bag inside out.