hey res. very old post of yours made me wanna ask. I've been getting into retinol lately and how do you stay on top of the sunscreening? I accidentally fell asleep in the sun (with some on) but am ninety percent sure it made things worse
Oh no!!!!! I just sat up straight and gasped. Please do not go in the sun while using retinols!!!! Even with sunscreen on!! Sorry for the incoming rant, I’m very particular about sun damage since skin cancer runs in my family.
Why no sun?
Retinols make your skin insanely vulnerable to the sun and UV damage. I can tell you from personal experience that a sunburn isn’t your only concern with retinols and sun. Your skin can become irritated, dried out, and/or flushed without ever burning. You can even trigger rosacea flares or acne. You can contribute to long term skin cancer risk as well.
Sun Coverings
Wear a hat! Find ways to block the sun that work for your lifestyle - I have UV hats and visors, UV long sleeved shirts that are frankly even cooler in the sun than being exposed, and a UV parasol. You can purchase all of these online. There are even pashminas and scarfs with some protection. They’re better than nothing.
Sunscreen
Reapply judiciously (studies show that most people do not correctly apply facial sunscreen in amounts that actually protect skin).
Invest in quality facial sunscreen asap if you will continue to be exposed to sun while using retinols or retinoids. I highly recommend La Roche Posay Anthelios, even though it’s somewhat expensive. It’s mineral, comes in tinted forms, and blends in very well. Bring the bottle with you when you go out.
Korean sunscreen is ideal if you can access those products. Costco sometimes has them!
Other options
Sometimes we have to be outside! I tend to schedule activities when the daily UV is at its weakest. Early in the morning, for example, or in the evening when the sun is setting. In these periods, I can get away with walking around bare faced if I limit the time (15-30 min).
Consider a spray sunscreen you can reapply when on the move (ideally over a thicker mineral or Korean sunscreen you added earlier). Some makeup setting sprays come with SPF now. Every few hours, spray. If you feel certain parts of your face or body heating up, spray. Again, something is better than nothing.
Remember that retinols will also make your skin more sensitive to irritants in the first few weeks - choose gentle formulas whenever possible.
Another option I wish I saw more - sunless tanners / spray tans. If your primary reason for being in the sun is to get tan, these products, when used correctly, are virtually indistinguishable. Until they begin to flake off, at least.
Timing
Do NOT go outside between 12-4 if you can avoid it. If you’re going to lunch, ask if you can sit in the shade. If you’ll be out in the sun, bring a covering of some sort (I always bring a parasol, people tend to be envious when it’s VERY warm).
Planning
Have a backup plan if the angle of the sun changes (a hat might not cover your neck or the side of your face - but a high collar on a UV linen shirt might). Check the UV forecast on days you have plans. Understand that cloudy or partially cloudy days can turn to full sun easily. Evaluate how long you’ll be outside before going out. If you’re standing in line all day at a theme park, you’ll be getting way more direct sun than usual.
Final thoughts
Find the retinol that works for you, and always consider alternative products. If you’re under the age of 30, you probably don’t need a retinol. If you can, visit a dermatologist to solidify the “issue” you are trying to solve with the retinol. Is it skin texture? Acne? Redness? All of those can be addressed by less risky products.
Retinols are strong and require you to be prepared and aware of those risks. If it’s not your last option, that’s okay! Just because everyone around you is using a retinol or retinoid doesn’t mean you have to. I have a bone to pick with influencers hawking these products to people under 30. Especially estheticians.
Sorry for the rant. I have strong feelings about sun exposure and damage like I mentioned. The other part I’ll mention before I shut up — sun damage will age your skin much faster and noticeably than simply not using a retinol. Stay moisturized, stay hydrated (skin and body) and wear your sunscreen!
