Smart Locks vs. Traditional Deadbolts: An Honest Security Assessment
Clients ask me this constantly.
"Should I upgrade to a smart lock?" And my answer is always the same: it depends on what problem you're actually trying to solve.
The smart lock market is flooded with beautiful products, clever marketing, and very enthusiastic tech reviewers who are evaluating convenience features — not security. As someone who spends her days assessing residential and commercial lock vulnerabilities, I want to give you the honest version.
What a Smart Lock Actually Is
A smart lock is fundamentally a traditional lock mechanism with an electronic access layer added on top. The core locking mechanism — the bolt, the cylinder, the strike plate — functions the same way as a conventional lock.
What changes is how you authenticate to operate that mechanism. Instead of a physical key, you might use a PIN code, a smartphone app, a fingerprint, a key fob, or some combination of these.
This distinction matters because it tells you exactly where smart locks add value and where they don't.
Where Smart Locks Genuinely Add Value
Access management. If you have people who need periodic access to your home — housekeepers, dog walkers, contractors, family members — smart locks solve a real problem. You can grant time-limited access, revoke it instantly, and see a log of who entered and when. No more hiding keys under flower pots.
Convenience. Auto-lock features, remote locking, and keyless entry are genuinely useful — especially if you frequently wonder whether you locked the door after leaving.
Rental and short-term situations. For Airbnb hosts or landlords, smart locks eliminate the key management problem entirely.
Where Smart Locks Don't Add Security Value
This is where I have to be honest with clients.
A smart lock does not make your door more secure against physical attack. If anything, adding electronics introduces new attack surfaces that a traditional deadbolt doesn't have.
Electronic vulnerabilities include:
Relay attacks on Bluetooth-enabled locks that extend signal range
Brute force PIN attacks on keypad models with no lockout
Wifi-dependent locks that fail when internet is down
Battery failure at inconvenient moments
Firmware vulnerabilities in cheaper models
More importantly — most home break-ins don't involve defeating the lock at all. They involve kicking in the door.
The Door Frame Problem Nobody Talks About
I cannot stress this enough.
The most common residential entry point for forced entry is a door that fails at the frame — not the lock. A properly installed Grade 1 deadbolt with a 1-inch throw bolt can be completely defeated in seconds if the door frame isn't reinforced.
What actually improves physical security:
3-inch screws in strike plate and hinges (not the standard 3/4 inch screws most doors have)
A reinforced strike plate — the standard builder-grade versions bend on the first kick
Door frame reinforcement products that wrap the frame
A door that fits properly in its frame with minimal gap
I've seen $300 smart locks installed on doors that would fail in two kicks. The lock was not the weak point.
ANSI/BHMA Lock Grades — What They Actually Mean
If you're evaluating any lock — smart or traditional — look for ANSI/BHMA certification:
Grade 1: Commercial grade. Tested to withstand 250,000 open/close cycles, 6 hammer blows, and specific forced entry tests. This is what you want on exterior doors.
Grade 2: Light commercial/heavy residential. Adequate but not optimal.
Grade 3: Basic residential. Minimum acceptable for interior doors only.
Most builder-grade deadbolts installed in new construction are Grade 2 or Grade 3. Upgrading to a Grade 1 deadbolt is one of the highest-value security improvements a homeowner can make.
Quick Answer: Are smart locks as secure as traditional deadbolts?
A quality smart lock from a reputable manufacturer — Schlage, Yale, Kwikset's higher-end lines — can match traditional deadbolt security while adding electronic convenience features. Cheap smart locks from unknown brands should be avoided for exterior door use. In all cases, door frame reinforcement matters more than lock selection.
My Practical Recommendation
If you want smart lock convenience AND solid security:
Choose a smart lock with ANSI Grade 1 certification. Schlage Encode and Yale Assure Lock 2 are consistently solid options.
Install it with 3-inch screws in the strike plate.
Add a door frame reinforcement kit.
Keep the physical key option — you'll need it when the battery dies at 11pm.
What I'd Skip
Cheap wifi-only locks with no backup key option. Any lock that requires a subscription to function fully. Locks from brands with no ANSI rating listed.
What's your current setup — traditional deadbolt, smart lock, or something else? And what prompted the decision?
