Francisco de Goya (Spanish, 1746-1828) • Portrait of Doña Isabel de Porcel • 1805

In the late 1700s into the early 1800s, some daring society women rebelled against French fashion trends by dressing as majas. This is interesting, as the maja was a style of belles of the lower class. The maja became one of the popular and informal symbols of Spain and a powerful symbol of national identity and cultural pride.

Zacarías González Velázquez (Spanish, 1763–1834)

The traditional items for dress were the basquińa – an overskirt that had neither openings nor a train. It was gathered or pleated at the waist and was fuller at the back than at the front. Sometimes, the basquińa was paired with a sleevess low-necked bodice or cuerpo bajo (see the image below). To complete the outfit, a comb, called a peineta of various heights and widths, a lace mantilla, and a fan.

In this 1926 portrait of Delores del Rio (1904-1983) by Theodore Lukits, she wears a basquińa with a cuerpo bajo and a very large peineta. Del Rio was a Mexican actress and here she is portrayed in the outfit she wore for presentation to the Spanish Court. Dressing in traditional Spanish costume for special occasions continued into the 20th century. The style is still popular today and can be seen at festivals and holidays throughout Spain and Latin America.