#onetigris

Okay so the first option is the obvious and easy option: just use the cape/pullstrap rings

Just clip it right on there

Pros: no extra materials/supplies/prep needed; no need to worry about handle height; still gives decent feedback with a rigid or semi rigid handle; very very minimal risk for injury

Cons: handle flops around when not being held; handle rests on dog's back when not being used; not as good of feedback as shoulder attachments

Option two: sew some d-rings on at the shoulder

Materials needed: two small d-rings or o-rings (I use ¾ inch ones) and about 6 inches of thin but strong webbing (I used 1 inch wide poly)

Instructions: cut about 3 inches of webbing and fuse (quickly and carefully melt the tips of the webbing where it was cut) to make sure it doesn't unravel. Thread it through a ring and then fold it in half with the ring at the crease. Sew the ring in place by going straight across, parallel to the ring (I recommend using a sewing machine but if you feel like sewing it by hand, go for it). Go ahead and get that harness properly fitted on your dog (i can make a post about this too if anyone wants) and then mark the shoulder points with a paper clip or marker or something (go straight up from the leg until you reach the strap). Make sure you measure the distance on the straps to get them even. Once you've got your marks, you're ready to sew the ring attachments on. Place the rings at your marks and then pin/clip the webbing in to place with the webbing tail pointing towards the chest piece. Do a quick line of stitching by the ring and at the end of the tail to keep it in place while you sew the strength stitches (also prevents any loose straps later on). So the strength stitches are called "box stitches". In order to do this you sew a "box" along the sides of the material and form an approximate square (doesn't need to be perfect). Do about three layers of stitches along the "box" to make sure it's thoroughly in place. Then to finish the box stitching you need to "lock the box". This is where you stitch two lines that connect the diagonal corners, forming an "X". Again, make sure you go over the stitch line about three times. After it's all secured then you're all set! Give it a few good tugs to make sure it's in place and you're good to go!

Pros: great guide feedback; keeps handle more secure when not in use

Cons: a lot more work; requires some skill in sewing; every dog needs to be individually measured and fitted for proper placement (can't really just switch harnesses between dogs); alters the harness so you can no longer return or exchange it

Option two: part two: bunny loops

Materials needed: webbing (length depends on dog's and handler's height), paracord (length depends on heights), velcro (if you want to make them removable), and probably a sewing machine because trust me, you do not want to hand sew all that

Instructions: see how high you need the bunny loops to be; attach handle to harness while on dog, hold handle relaxed and comfortably, measure how high the handle is sitting above the girth strap, add one to two inches to account for movement while walking. Take that number, multiply it by three or four, that's how much webbing you need for each loop (it will seem like it's too much; it's not). Take your prepared webbing and 2-4 strips of paracord (depending on how wide it is) (or 2-3 extra layers of webbing) that are three inches shorter than the webbing and sew it together from the center (making sure that the webbing has equal margin off both ends). Once you've got that secured, you can fold it in half and shake it around; that reinforced section should be standing on its own easily without creasing or flopping, but still be flexible. Sew the two ends together. If you're adding velcro, add the strips to the end now, otherwise you can just sew directly onto the harness. I find that the perfect placement is typically by sticking the straps behind the girth buckles but if you use different harnesses or have a wide chested dog this may be a bit different for you. If you are sewing the attachment on, then you can either do a couple of straight stitches or do another box stitch.

If you don't need to remove the bunny loops, you really don't need to worry about the velcro, but since I use this harness without the guide handle frequently, they can get a bit annoying to have since they can rub in doorways and the leash sometimes gets stuck on them. This way I can also use them interchangeably between our harnesses and not need to make multiple sets

Pros: keeps handle well in place, makes grabbing the handle much easier