Cute modern styled nihongami by @kamiyuiumeko on Instagram
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Cute modern styled nihongami by @kamiyuiumeko on Instagram
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[Haircare during Edo period], handy illustration by Sayuri Sasai.
As time went, Edo hairstyles became more and more intricated. Hairdos were set using plenty of styling products, like 梳き油 sukiabura (creamy pomade) or 付け油 tsukeabura (solid pomade). Many recipes existed, varying in bases (like 椿油 tsubakiabura/camellia oil, 菜種油nataneabura/canola oil, 木蝋 mokurô/sumac wax etc.) and fragrances used.
Once set, hairstyles did not fell apart easily, but the oils used meant hair easily caught dust or dander - hence why people used tenugui or other kinds of hoods to protect their hair (see those past notes 1 / 2):
In the past, washing one's hair was usually done once or twice per month (in the meantime, to relieve itchy scalp, people often used hairpins to scratch without unraveling hairdo!).
Dirt and wax were washed off using hot water and shampoo made from dried 布海苔 funori (a type of red algae) and うどん粉 udonko (wheat flour). You can see here an attempt at recreating the mix.
Then, hair was allowed to dry naturally (taking care of not catching a cold in freezing weather!).
Kanzashi (かんざし、簪)
Okay so I love and collect kanzashi. I noticed there isn't a lot of information in english about kanzashi so I am going to post explainers here.
Source: http://nihongami.blogspot.com/2023/11/blog-post_22.html
Nihongami: Historical Overview - Part 01B
Historical Time Period: Nara Period (710-794 CE)
Hairstyle Name: Zujouni Motodori (頭上二髻) lit. “Two Sky High Topknots"
During the Nara period of Japanese history (710-794 CE), the ancient Japanese government was still experiencing strong Chinese and Korean influences on Japanese clothing and hairstyles.
This is a hairstyle found in haniwa, hollow unglazed terracotta figure from the Kofun period (330-538 CE). The hair tied on top of the head is divided into two and tied into a topknot. In the Manyoshu (8th-century anthology of Japanese poetry), this hairstyle is called "角髪, Kakukami'' (lit. "antler hair") and in later generations, it was called agemaki.
If a geisha doesn't want to wear a wig, can she tie her hair?
Do you mean Nihongami like Maiko/Hangyoku wear it? I suppose in Hanamachi with less strict rules, it's possible (three Geisha from Oi/Omori in Tokyo, who were active in the late 2000's to late 2010's, wore their own hair in Nihongami frequently). Also Shin Nihongami is possible to create without the help of a Kamiyui, if you're skilled enough. But since I don't have back pictures of those respective Geisha, I don't know what exact hairstyles they wore.
Kyoto Geiko wear Chû shimada/Kyofu shimada done with their own hair for Miyako Odori and Tea ceremony at the other Odori. In this case, if you see a senior Geiko having her own hair styled this way, she chose this over wearing a wig. Junior Geiko don't have this choice. When Odori season is over, they go back to their usual styles of Katsura or Yohatsu.
Yohatsu isn't technically Nihongami, but it's done with your own hair. It's the everyday look for jikata, Geisha who have aged out of Katsura+Oshiroi, or Geisha who live in cities where the combination of Katsura+Oshiroi is only worn for special occasions like the new year, or not at all. Outside of the Hanamachi, it's a popular hairstyle for wearing Kimono. It is also a hairstyle that Geisha can do themselves, although I suppose, at least in Kyoto, they mostly let a professional do the job.
For more casual occasions - like lessons or Miyabi-kai, especially junior Geiko wear a hairstyle more simple than Yohatsu: combed back, or with a side part in a bun (sorry, don't have any pictures available).
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Заметки о дизайне Коё: Причёска
С дохулионом ссылок на различные источники о культуре и одежде Японии, которые вы могли ни разу не видеть! Художникам, косплеерам и интересующимся японскими причёсками вообще - сюда!)
Относительно Озаки Коё есть два правила: никогда не одевай её в традиционную японскую одежду и не делай ей причёску с соблюдением абсолютно всех правил и никогда не одевай и не причёсывай других персонажей как её (из-за правила №1).
А теперь подробнее.
wareshinobu / ofuku / sakkou
"Les rêves de Hana"
Hair&Kimono: 菱田聖子 insta:@kamiyuiumeko
Photography:@PhotographyBach