#kennels

Guys...I did not know that Dog Crate furniture was a genre of home furnishings that existed until about 15 mins ago! I just decided to google it for ideas about how to make my dog kennels less of an eyesore/focal point in our living room...I did not expect to be bombarded with all of these dog prisons?...canine zoos?...wolf-descendant display cases?...

After bringing Robert home, I noticed a very stark difference between the soft, sleek coats of the hounds I had met at the meet and greet and his dry, dull and tufty coat. His coat was rough, and felt almost gritty in texture. At first, I thought he might just be a little grimy from living in kennels for so long, and so, I booked him to a local dog groomer for a good scrub. He came out of the Dog Spa smelling a million times better, but still plagued by a course, patchy coat. Underneath that coat, his sky was dry and flaky, and patches of skin, particularly around his elbows and hips were so thick and calloused they were more reminiscent of sandpaper than skin! I know from experience now that he was suffering what is commonly referred to as "Kennel Coat".

Kennel Coat is a phenomenon seen in Greyhounds and is often contributed to a combination of substandard living conditions and poor diet. Due to their lean, low fat body type, Greyhounds tend to feel the cold more so than other dog breeds. This means that hounds living in kennels, often with little more than shredded paper for bedding, tend to develop thicker, coarser coats in an attempt to stay warm. Off the back of the lack of body fat, any boney points on the hounds can quickly become pressure points when the dogs lie down on un-padded surfaces. This leads to the formation of what is colloquially known as "kennel sores", patches of hard, calloused skin, often seen on the elbows, hips and legs of Greyhounds.

In conjunction with the harsh living conditions, the poor diets of most Racing and Coursing Hounds, often an unbalanced mix of cheap, subsidized kibble, bakery left-overs and knackery meat plays havoc on both dental hygiene and skin health. Unbalanced diets without the proper ratio of Omega 3 to Omega 6 lead to medical conditions, from minor dry, flakey skin to more aggressive inflammatory issues with joints and skeletal health.

In Roberts case, years of systemic neglect had led to the development of this thick, dull, dead kennel coat, as well thick calloused areas of skin on areas such as his elbows. On top of that, he also suffers from a genetic condition present in many Greyhounds known as "Balding Thigh Syndrome", which is just as it sounds, a condition in which the hair on the thighs thins and falls off, often never to return. Not much is known about BTS, many hounds suffer some degree of fur loss during their time in the Racing or Coursing industries, but upon entering rescue life, most grow it back. For Robert, he never recovered the hair on his thighs but with a combination of a good diet rich in skin and coat boosting nutrients, a proper coat maintenance routine, and time and care in a warm, loving home with a soft bed and cozy PJs to stave off the winter chill, the rest of his coat shed off and was replaced by a sleek, shiny, soft one in time.

Diet:

Poor Diet plays a huge role in most issues when it comes to our pets, but can also be the greatest medicine when harnessed properly. Avoid any of cheap "Greyhound Feeds". They are often nothing more than by-product and flavorings, boosted with synthetic nutrients to make minimum nutrient guidelines, and often produced by brands that sponsor or support the industry. A decent quality kibble, made with real meat and/or meat meal (not by-product or unspecified protein meal), a relatively low inflammatory carb content (rice and maize are incredibly inflammatory in nature, which can worsen conditions such as arthritis), and low legume content (legumes such as peas or lentils are known taurine-blockers, and can cause issues with Dilated Cardio-Myopathy later down the line) is ideal. There is no one food that suits every greyhound, as every dog is unique, so you may need to experiment with different brands to find one that works well for your dog. Contacting a Canine Nutritionist can often be helpful if really struggling with diet. For Robert, the best food for him turned out to be a homemade Raw, Fresh Food Diet, due to his issues with processed kibble, however we have had fosters than did well on brands such as Go Native, Acana and Real Wilderness, to name a few. Once you have your base food sorted, you can add whole food "toppers" tailored to your dogs needs. Toppers should be limited to no more than 10-15% of your dogs total bowl volume so as not to unbalance the base food! Beware of upsetting balance and throwing off calories when adding toppers.

Some of our favourite skin and coat boosting whole foods include:

Porridge Oats. An easy to find, high fiber source of Thiamine, a nutrient that plays a key role in healthy skin function. Simply mix with warm water and stir through food.

Small, Oily Fish. Rich in omegas, small oily fish such as sprats, sardines, mackerel or anchovies make a phenomenal addition to your dogs bowl a few times a week. Other fish such as cod, trout, flounder, herring or whiting are also safe to feed, but don't boast the same benefit as the smaller fry. Best to avoid fish like Salmon or Tuna, or limit the serving to once a week or two, due to the bio-magnification of mercury and nutrients like vitamin D in these proteins.

Egg. A whole egg two or three times a week, cracked raw over kibble provides an almost perfect balance of essential amino acids that help regulate the function of kin.

Flaxseed, a rich source of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids as well as Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA) which is known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Feed as either a ground seed or oil (beware the calories and concentration when feeding oils!)

Chia seeds. Simply mix with water and watch them become a sticky skin-boosting jelly! Rich in omega 3 fatty acids, adding chia jelly to your dogs diet gives an extra fiber boost as well as promoting skin and coat renewal.

Apple Cider Vinegar, a teaspoon poured over food can help calm skin irritation and help soothe itchy skin, giving skin a chance to heal from the lifetime of abuse.

Seaweed. Seaweed is rich in chlorophyll and iodine which promote skin and coat health. As iodine can be overfed, best to air on the side of caution to avoid any thyroid issues later down the line.

Evening Primrose oil. Whilst often thought of just as a hormonal balancing supplement, Evening Primrose Oil also does wonders for skin and coat health due to its essential fatty acid content.

Coat Maintenance:

Once you shift that kennel coat, there's little to no brushing really required to keep your hounds coat in good nick. And unless they roll in something particularly foul on their evening strolls, they likely wont need many bath time adventures! Should you need to wash your hound, remember to pick up not just a shampoo but a conditioner. Greyhounds have a relatively low concentration of oils in their coat, which on one hand means less 'doggy odor' but on the other means they can be prone to dandruff, so conditioning the coat after shampooing can help prevent any snowflakes in summertime!

We went through alot of trial and error with brushes and grooming supplies, but have had great success with the following:

Deshedding Brush. The number one tool in your arsenal against a kennel coat is a good de-shedding brush. The brand furminator is often the most easily accessible, but does carry a relatively hefty price point, however you can often find knock-offs or alternatives at a more reasonable cost in most pet shops. The way these brushes work is they catch and remove any dead or compacted hair in the coat. They can be quite heavy on the coat however, and overuse can break or damage the remaining hair so best to utilize in short bursts once or twice a week.

Rubber mitt. A firm rubber brush is your daily use tool against shedding and kennel coats. They help gather up any loose hairs, gently removing them without the pulling action of the stronger deshedding blades. They also massage the skin, helping promote blood flow and distribution of natural oils in the coat. There are many, many different styles of rubber mitt. I've picked up a few different types, but personally found THIS one to be my favourite due to the serrated edge and honeycomb combo design that gathers and removes hair easily whilst the more clustered side smooths the coat.

Bristle Brush. In terms of shedding, a bristle brush doesn't do much to help remove the hair, however, it does help to distribute oils, smooth the coat, and remove any static. There's aren't a necessary purchase by far, but I like to have one on hand to help 'dust down' any stray, uncollected hairs after using other brushes to remove coat.

Finishing mitt. Like the bristle brush, this tool doesn't really do much for shedding, but does help add shine and condition to the new, healthy coat that grows in to replace the dead kennel coat. Essentially, think of it as polishing your pet!

For calloused areas of skin, moisturizer is key. Id personally skip the coconut oil in favor of a more targeted product such as honeycure or oatmeal balm. Coconut oil is often touted as a cure all, but the high calories and fats can reek havoc on the pancreas if consumed in large quantities and the smothering effect can trap bacteria on the skin, creating an ideal breeding ground.

Should your hound be one of the unlucky few, like Robert, to suffer from Balding Thigh for life, you will likely also need to invest in some doggy sunscreen (though some brands of children's sunscreen are dog safe!). Sunscreen for dogs might sound like a skit, but with no hair over that dark thigh meat, those sighthounds can sizzle! Those with thinning coats can also burn along the nose, ears and belly too, so slather up, especially if you have a sun bather!