#kapengbarako

Coffee plays a vital role in Philippine culture. Regardless of your age, class, or location, it’s normal for early-rising Filipinos to start their day with a fortifying cup of coffee and toasted pandesal or a classic full rice breakfast of rice and eggs paired with tuyo (dried fish), tocino (sweet cured pork), or traditional Filipino sausages called longganisa.

Traditionally brewed coffee drinkers of our grandparents’ generation have a sentimental attachment to Liberica, locally known as Kapeng Barako. Younger generations and coffee lovers now enjoy Second Wave and Third Wave coffee shops, which have become an important “third space” for many people whose lives consist of work, home, work, and school.

A quick history of Philippine coffee

Coffee is not endemic to the Philippines. The first coffee beans – Liberica beans, to be exact – were brought to the Philippines in 1740 by two Spanish Franciscan friars and planted in the cool, elevated plantations of Lipa, Batangas. This marked the beginning of what historians call a golden era for Philippine coffee, which lasted almost 150 years.

Liberica beans from the Philippines soon became a valuable export to Europe and America. They could command up to five times the value of Arabica beans, also cultivated in the Philippines. And when other major coffee-producing territories like Sri Lanka, India, Java, and Sumatra were hit in the 1870s by a destructive fungal disease called Coffee Rust (Hemileia Vastatrix), the Philippines was, for a short time, the world’s leading coffee producer.

Unfortunately, Coffee Rust attacked and eventually destroyed Philippine Liberica plantations in 1889. Whatever crops could be saved from Batangas plantations were eventually replanted in the nearby province of Cavite. However, Liberica has yet to regain its prominence, and coffee production and export have declined in importance for many decades.

During the American period, the Americans encouraged Philippine agriculturists to plant Robusta beans (Coffea canephora). Unlike Arabica and Liberica, which grow at optimal levels at minimum altitudes 200-300 meters above sea level, Robusta is easy to cultivate in the lowlands and is more disease and insect resistant. Today Robusta is the country’s most dominant variety. Most of the Philippines’ Robusta crop is used in the production of instant coffee by Philippine and multinational coffee producers.

Instant coffee is still an essential component of Philippine coffee culture. Many brands of convenient instant coffee are sold in supermarkets, together with many types of 3-in-1 coffee sachet products that include powdered coffee, creamer, and sugar, all in one packet.

Second-Wave and Third-Wave Coffee

The interest in Philippine coffee experienced a resurgence in the early 1990s when enterprising coffee businesses banded together to relaunch Kapeng Barako and promote many small groups of Philippine coffee producers in the Calabarzon Region, the Cordilleras, and many parts of northern and southern Mindanao.

The arrival of Seattle’s coffee brands, notably Starbucks and Seattle’s Best, and other major coffee shop brands in the Philippines (the so-called “Second Wave”) also helped spark interest in the coffee origin and sustainability. In the last decade, many independent coffee shop owners have begun sourcing their beans directly from coffee cooperatives and do some – or a lot – of their in-house bean roasting.

Today, passionate Third Wave coffee drinkers are terroir-driven and are deeply interested in where the beans came from, what types of beans they are (Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa, or Kapeng Barako), and what flavor profile they might have (nutty, floral, fruity – or a combination of the three). More often than not, by supporting certain coffee shops, you directly support coffee cooperatives that these shop owners and small distributors champion – whether they’re from Sagada, Batangas, Sulu, or other emerging coffee-producing areas in the Philippines.

So whenever you visit your favorite coffee place or are looking for a new coffee type to sip, ask your seller more about their latest batch of coffee beans, their origin, their flavor profile, and how best to brew it.

We hope you enjoy the flavor discovery that comes with every cup you have!

Kapeng barako has an excellent aroma and perfectly matches native delicacies.

Origin

Kapeng Barako also spelled Barco (Barako Coffee in English), is a coffee varietal grown in the Philippines, particularly in Batangas and Cavite. It belongs to the species of Coffea Liberica. The term also refers to all coffee coming from those provinces. Barako is a Filipino term for a male stud of an animal and has become associated with the image of a tough man. Barako assumingly takes the time given to a wild boar, which is used to find the fruits of the coffee tree’s scrumptious snacking fare. The reason, maybe, that our local coffee is called barako is that it is strong, intense, and well-liked by wild boar.

History

The Philippines had become the world’s sole supplier of coffee. More specifically, Lipa in Batangas was supplying the world with coffee. Batangas had gained the title “Coffee Capital” of the Philippines, and coffee production was going strong. The Macasaet family grew Kapeng barako in the 1800s in Barangay Pinagtung-Ulan, Batangas. It gained so much reputation that all types of coffee from Batangas are generically called “Barako,” even if they are one of the other types. It is, by association, the definition of Batangas Coffee.

The popularity of the kapeng barako traces its roots in the 1800s when the Philippine coffee beans shipped to America and Europe commanded five times the price compared to other varieties from Asia.

Some coffee varieties are commercialized, namely Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa, and Liberica. Coffea arabica, known as Arabica coffee, is self-pollinating and accounts for 75-80 percent of the world’s production. Coffea canephora, known as Robusta coffee, depends on cross-pollination and accounts for about 20 percent and differs from the Arabica coffees in terms of taste and yield seeds that form a lower quality coffee. Coffea Liberica is much rarer than the other two and is known to be indigenous in only three Asian countries. This type of coffee has a strong flavor and a distinct aroma. It also produces larger “beans,” and it is very productive. These qualities are why the Philippine varietal of Liberica is called “Kapeng Barako. Coffea Excelsa resists diseases and dryness. It has a high yield, and its old beans give a coffee with an odorous and pleasant taste, similar to Coffea Arabica.

Health Benefit

In the Philippines, coffee is the second most consumed beverage after water. Research firm Kantar Worldpanel revealed that coffee is a staple drink for Filipinos, who have shifted from moderate to heavy coffee drinkers. This probably isn’t surprising for those in Metro Manila and other urbanized areas with coffee houses ranging from boutique cafes to big chains. However, the country’s coffee culture has surprisingly old roots, and some aspects – including the endangered form of Liberia, Kapeng Barako – are not well known. This article discusses everything you need to know about Kapeng Barako – including its origins and how you can make it at home.

Kapeng Barako: A History

What is Kapeng Barako?

First things first, what is Kapeng Barako? Barako is a Tagalog word that means ‘manliness’ or ‘strong man,’ and Kape means coffee. Because of its strong aroma and taste, it got the name Kapeng Barako. Kapeng Barako became a common name for all coffee from Batangas. It is an exotic and rare coffee fully grown in Lipa and other high places in Batangas and is known for its strong taste. Barako trees are some of the largest commercially cultivated coffee trees, making them more challenging to grow. They are very tall, reaching up to 66 ft (20 m) high.

The size of the leaves, cherries, and beans of Barako is also among the largest of all coffee varieties. They are considered endangered due to low demand and production. The Slow Food movement has listed it in the Ark of Taste international catalog of endangered heritage foods. The taste of Kapeng Barako is superior to Robusta, and most Filipino coffee drinkers prefer Barako to Arabica. Excelsa-Carrasco and Arabica-varraco blends are famous and create a cup with a broader flavor range. It has a unique flavor and a strong fragrance similar to aniseed. 

History

In the 1740s, Barako coffee was first introduced to the Philippines by Spanish friars. Initially, it was planted in the lowlands of Lipa, Batangas. From there, it spread to other areas in the province, and Batangas became well-known for its coffee locally. Further, Barako was historically exported from the 1860s onwards to San Francisco and parts of Europe, with prices five times higher than other Asian coffee beans. In 1876, the cultivation of Barako spread to the neighboring province of Cavite. In the 1880s, the Philippines became one of the world’s top four coffee producers.

However, in 1889, the country’s coffee industry collapsed after coffee rust devasted plantations nationwide. This caused most farmers to shift to other crops. Only a few Barako seedlings survived, most of which were in Cavite. In the mid-20th century, the demand for coffee surged once again. However, Barako didn’t return since cultivating coffee was more challenging than other coffee varieties. Instead, the new coffee production surge concentrated on rust-resistant types imported from the United States. 

Cultivation and Conservation

Barako only accounts for less than 2% of all commercial coffee grown. It is abundant in the Philippines and is also produced in Malaysia. It is rarely exported, as most products come from small, local farms. Primarily, it is sold to the local and tourist market. 

Compared to other coffee varieties, the large sizes of Barako trees make it easier and less efficient for production and harvesting. This has caused most modern farmers to shy away, growing Robusta varieties instead. However, there has been recent interest in reviving and conserving Barako, including the growing preference for it in local coffee shops in the Philippines. 

Barako Overseas

Even overseas, the interest in Barako is growing. Names like Len’s Coffee, a US-based brand, carry Barako, and some of their profits support the conservation of Liberica coffee and the forests they grow. In London, second-generation Filipinos Jovan and Omar have established Barako Bean, a roastery committed to sourcing and roasting single-origin coffees from the Philippines, including Barako. 

Preparing the Kapeng Barako

Kapeng Barako is best-prepared drip brewed or by using a coffee maker machine. In Batangas, brown sugar is used, though some prefer to sweeten it with honey. In Batangas, it is usually served black; however, the cream can be added for individual taste. Below, we'd like to share some ways to prepare Kapeng Barako.

Preparing the Kapeng Barako using a French Coffee Press

Here’s how you can prepare the Kapeng Barako using a French Press. 

Servings: 4 servings

Prep time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Total time: 10 minutes

Ingredients

4 cups water, boiled

3.5 tablespoons Kapeng Barako

Three tablespoon sugar (brown sugar or muscovado)

Directions

Boil water in a pot.

Add brown sugar and let the mixture boil for a few seconds.

Remove pot from heat.

Add the Barako coffee. Stir.

Allow the coffee to brew for about 5 minutes before straining.

Enjoy!

Note: In Batangas, brown sugar is used as sweeter; however, others prefer honey. Most Batanguenos enjoy their Kapeng Barako served black. However, you can add cream for individual taste. 

The Bottom Line

Barako is a Tagalog word that means ‘manliness’ or ‘strong man,’ and Kape means coffee. Because of its strong aroma and taste, it got the name Kapeng Barako. Barako only accounts for less than 2% of all commercial coffee grown. It is abundant in the Philippines and is also produced in Malaysia. However, there has been recent interest in reviving and conserving Barako, including a growing preference for it in local coffee shops in the Philippines. It has also been receiving attention overseas.

Ang Ginhawa Art's and Crafts Cafe ay isang Pop-up coffee stop at space para makahinga, makapagpahinga kahit nasa kalsada. Ito ay sinimulan ni Kuya Steve sa pagnanais na maibahagi ang sarap at ginhawa ng pa(g)hinga. Sa pagmamahal sa sining at hilig sa paglalakbay nabuo ang pangarap na ito. Ito rin ang magiging lagayan ng mga likhang sining at lokal na produkto na ating magagawa at mahahagilap sa paglalakbay. Sisikapin ng ginhawa na maging konektado sa kalikasan at kapwa.

Ang Titik Enterprise ay isang paraan ng Titik Poetry isang grupo ng mga artist sa Cavite upang magkaroon ng platform ang mga artists na makapagbahagi ng kanilang mga talento at ma-iconvert ito para masuportahan ang kanilang mga pangangailangan sa pang-araw-araw.

Ipinagmamalaki naming produkto ang Ginhawa ng pangarap na ito na unti-unti na nating naisasakatuparan. Sa paglalakbay na ito sinisiguro naming tayo ay susuporta sa mga lokal artists.

Atin nang pormal na ipinapakilala ang "Ginhawa Coffee Stop" at mga art's and crafts na ating mga dala. Sobrang saya ng karanasan, mga kwento, at higit sa lahat mga bagong kaibigan. 

Ito ang ating dala-dala hindi lang basta mga kape at abubot kundi mga kwento na balang araw magbubunga ng maganda. Lakas para sa bawat isa para magpatuloy sa ating ginagawa. Ang dami kong natutuhan, nawa kayo rin. Dalhin natin parati "na sa bawat pagtapak sa isang lugar bagong karanasan ang iyong mai-uuwi."

Nung sinisimulan ni Kuya Steve ang Ginhawa ito ay kanyang libangan lamang. Ang pagpunta sa mga bakanteng lugar na may puno, pagtambay sa tabi ng palayan at pagpunta sa mga lugar na malalayo ay isang paraan para makapag-isip, makahinga, at makapagpahinga.

Ito ang bentahe ng Ginhawa Art's and Crafts Cafe na hindi lang tayo isang business kundi isang space o espasyo na pwedeng makapaghinga at makahinga. Sa ating pagpadyak sisikapin naming ito ay maibahagi sa bawat makakasalamuha sa daan. Tayo ay magtatanim ng mga kwento na ating babaunin sa buhay.

Pitik ni Heiro Noah