eid week - food, identity and the ismaili khojas
This project is an excursion in the study of food - a reflective activity in what is pieced together in our kitchens, what ends up on our dining tables, what seems like a unit of survival but also transcends boundaries of mere sustenance. Food, as a cultural construct, offers impetus for cultural identification, one that allows for selective categorisation - those units of people around us whom are ours, and those who are not, based on what they consume and how much it aligns with our pattern of consumption.
What drew my interest to the study of food, and more specifically, the study of Ismaili Khoja food, was the peculiarity of nomenclature. More specifically, it is the nomenclature of muthiya - one, that if you do a quick Google search, will offer a multitude of recipes and images of green steamed dumplings. The recipe on Tarla Dalalās website, just three searches in, starts with a description of this dumpling. It is, āa fist-shaped steamed snack that is much loved by the Gujaratisā and ādoodhi (gourd) and onions when combined with an apt combination of semolina and flours (...) yield delicious Doodhi Muthiasā. The muthiya Iād grown up with, however, looked awfully dissimilar, for what Iāve grown up turning my nose up at, and what my mother has called muthiya, is a particular kind of meat stew from Western India. A stew, and this I realised only two years ago, that is called by a different name by Hindu Gujaratis of Surat - undhiyu. Undhiyu is essentially the same, just without the meat characterising the Ismaili Khoja version of it. A search of āundhiyuā on Google yields a few hundred results - muthiya with meat, and various iterations of that do not lead to a recipe of the dish Iām familiar with.Ā
I attempt to pose questions regarding identity, fluidity and belonging through this project. Who are the Ismaili Khojas of Gujarat, and how does their historically multivalent identity translate to the kitchen? What about their food is so distinctly āKhojaā? What about their food is so āGujaratiā? In a constantly evolving world, in the light of evolving cultures and essentializing identities, how does food play a role in community solidarity? These are questions that have guided my line of inquiry.Ā
Documentation of this nature implies a sense of static, immovability of culture. Khoja identity over the past hundred years has evolved drastically.Ā An oft-used methodology in studying food as a critical method for examining broader sociocultural questions is combining ethnography with a review of historical literature, methods Iāve used as guiding tools for my project.Ā Ā
Specifically, Iāve attempted a formulation my argument using well established theories from the field, like that of Sidney Mintzā in his critical study of food and cuisine, Arjun Appaduraiās analysis of cookbooks in India and Tony K. Stewartās translation theory, which historian Ali S. Asani utilised in describing the evolution of Satpanthi from Khoja (and which I will also build upon in my review of pre-existing literature). I will attempt to highlight the role played by oral transmission of recipes, fluidity of caste identity and the role of rituals as opposed to a recognised coherent cuisine, and their significance in the construction of a distinct Ismaili Khoja cuisine for women of the community, whoāve lived in the cities of Mumbai and Pune, two cities with a prominent Ismaili Khoja population.