@wheel-of-fish graciously provided me with these photos of a prop program for Il Muto. I was looking at the page on the left and noticed what looked like a faded stamp in the right corner.
It was vaguely familiar and made me think of the stamps that the french archives use to mark their scans. And since we know that phantom has used actual archival material to make their props in the past, I figured down once more to the BnF we go!
Aaaand sure enough!
There it is! Stamp and all! It's a real advertisement from June 6, 1867.
Thank you so much fish for letting me share these pictures! If anyone else has any phantom props with material like this, and you want me to go poking around in the archives to see if I can find their origins let me know!
(also if you missed it, on the Il Muto side of the program, they gave Maria in universe credit as the designer of Il Muto)
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ROW 1: Orange/pink. The possibly rarest shade. Maybe even just one dress showing this; that worn by Jeanne Marie Nigl in Stuttgart. The other in this photoset is from Hiroshima, but as seen in the next row it might be pink.
ROW 2: Pink. Very common in the US, not so much elsewhere. Usually quite patterned dresses as well. Here's some of the less patterned and more obviously pink versions, as worn by Kitty Heaton on Broadway and an unidentified actress from the US Tour. Last photo shows a backstage photo of a newer Japanese dress.
ROW 3: Purplish gold. A more ombiguous shade, which can change the look quite a bit from backstage to stage lamps. Seen here is Mel Gowie in West End, unidentified actress from the South Korean revival, and Paige Tuddenham from either Toronto or the Canadian Tour.
ROW 4: Purple. Sometimes it's difficult to separate between purple and more patterned blue dresses, as these too tend to change colour quite a bit on stage. But here is two from West End (unidentified actresses), and one on display in Vienna.
ROW 5: Very blue. The very blue dresses seems to be a recent trend. Here's a fairly new one from the costume maker in the US, a similar US dress worn by Jennifer West in the World Tour revival, and an unidentified actress from the West End revival.
ROW 6: Sky / pale blue. The most common shade. It's what was seen in the original West End production (left), plus to examples from Hamburg, worn by Stephanie Watt and Tanja Petrasek.
ROW 7: Sky / pale blue. More of the same, as worn by an unidentified actress (Lisa Dyby Waddingham?) from early West End days, as well as Eline de Jong in Oberhausen, and Nicola Rutherford in West End.
ROW 8: Metallic green / yellow / undetermined. Some dresses are a bit hard to pinpoint, because they are made of a metallic fabric and it may act up under stage lamps. But here is a greyish/blue/gold dress from the original Stockholm production, a golden dress from the Mexican / Spanish / original Brazilian production, as well as a mint / blue one from the Copenhagen revival. Alas I don't have the name for either actresses.