Knitted scarf, for one of my kids. #knittersofinstagram #knitting #brokenribstitch #getyourkniton
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Knitted scarf, for one of my kids. #knittersofinstagram #knitting #brokenribstitch #getyourkniton

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We have lift-off! 😄😄 #cowl #knitting #caston #knit #yay #knitknitknit #sockheadcowl #cowlscowlscowls #WIP #loveit #AJtheCowlQueen #knitlife #cantstopwontstop #swipeit #getyourkniton #knicromaniac #arctickrafts #yarnaddict #chillzone #knitlikeyoumeanit #knittingatthebatcave #yarn #ajknitsthesockheadcowl #❤
That is so cool. At Nido they wind your skein for ya! @nidovt #knittinahat #btv @churchstreetmarketplace #getyourkniton #yarn #fabric #knitting #vermont
My go-to hat pattern
For anyone struggling with gauge, here is a really really easy hat pattern that works for just about any head. It requires being able to cast on, knit, purl, k2tog, thread stitches on yarn, possibly sew a seam, use a tape measure, multiply by 5 and 6, and divide by 4. It will make a simple watch cap or beanie, and is intended to be worn with folded brim.
Cast on a bunch of stitches (at least five inches/12cm worth) and knit back and forth until you have at least two inches / 5cm vertically (4inches/10cm is probably better, but if you’re in a hurry you can get away with less). Lay your swatch flat and put a tape measure or ruler across it. Count the number of stitches in four inches/10cm (horizontally; make sure to measure in the middle, not right at the cast on or right at the needle). Multiply by 5 and by 6, and pick a multiple of 4 that falls in the middle. Aim high if your recipient is big, or low if they’re small. Write this number down, then unravel your swatch.
Cast on as many stitches as you wrote down, leaving a looong tail (at least 20 inches/50cm).
Work k2, p2 on every row, working back and forth, until you have 4 to 6 inches. On the next row, knit. Row 2, purl. Repeat this for at least an inch or so, more if you worked a shorter ribbing section or if your recipient is big. Hold the hat up to your head—it should go at least from the middle of your ears to your crown, maybe further if your recipient is bigger than you are, before you start the next step.
Take some scrap yarn in a different color and cut 3 lengths of about 4 to 6 inches. Fold each in half and tie an overhand knot about an inch from the fold, making a loop with a tail.
Next row: knit 1/4 of your stitches, slip a loop of yarn on. Repeat two more times (3 markers placed), then knit to the end.
Row 1: purl, slipping loops as you come to them. Row 2: k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before marker (yarn loop), ssk (or k2tog again if you don’t know how to ssk). Slip the marker. Repeat three more times (4 total)—on the last one there won’t be a marker, so knit to 2 stitches before the end instead.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have 8 to 16 stitches on your needles. Cut a decently sized tail. Thread through stitches starting from the opposite end, but don’t pull yet. Take the stitches off the needle. Fold the hat in half with the right side (knit side, usually, unless you like the other side better) on the inside and the wrong side facing you. Using the cast on tail, sew up the seam (mattress stitch will probably look best, but whatever you can manage). Pull the top yarn tight, tie to the seam yarn, and weave both ends in for about 2 inches. Cut off excess. You should now have a hat.
If you want it to look a little nicer and be easier to seam, you can add 2 stitches, one at each end, and slip these stitches at the beginning of each row. You can knit or purl them at the end of each row as you like, it doesn’t matter. This isn’t really necessary, though, and it does make the pattern a tiny bit harder.
If you want to knit in the round, work the swatch the same. Cast on. Join for the round, and work k2 p2 until you have 4 to 6 inches. After your ribbing, knit until you have a good length of hat—try it on or hold it up to your head to see if you like it. Then make 4 markers rather than 3, making one really long, to mark your start of round. Place 4 markers rather than three (it doesn’t matter where you start), and: 1. Knit until you come to the long marker. 2. *k2tog, knit to 2 before next marker, ssk, slip marker*. Repeat from * to * three more times (4 total), until you get to the long marker.
Repeat until you have 8 to 16 stitches left, then cut a good length tail and thread through your stitches, starting with the next stitch and pulling them off as you go. Turn your hat inside out and poke the yarn end through so it’s on the inside. Thread it back around the piece between the last stitch and the first threaded-on stitch. Pull tight and weave in the end. Weave in the cast-on end. Enjoy your hat.
At some point, if you are using circulars, your hat will no longer fit on them—your stitches will be pulled too tight (this may be right at the beginning). When this starts to happen, just use the traveling loop method: pull out enough cord that your stitches are comfortable, make a loop with it, and keep going. When you get back to your loop, slide the stitches back to the other end and do it again. If you are having trouble joining for the round because the needle is too long, stick a needle point between two stitches halfway around and pull out a loop, then treat it the same way when you get there. At the very end of the hat, you may need two loops. Do them the same way, but preserve the other loop when you re-create the one you’ve just reached (I just stick my wrist through it so it doesn’t collapse). You’ll want them to be roughly opposite each other, but exactness doesn’t matter. This is called “magic loop”.