#french camera

This summer, as my wife and I visited Barcelona on a day when my wife was working, I decided to go to the local flea market to look for photo items to add to my collection. Attending local flea markets is something I look forward to, especially when we visit new cities and countries. My main objective was to find a camera built in Spain, which I accomplished by purchasing the Captain camera, which I reviewed earlier this year.

 Strolling the stalls at the flea market, I came across a very large Bakelite camera, which intrigued me. It was a Photax 1 camera made by MIOM in France. What I liked about the camera was its large size, and that came with the original fitted case. As I pulled out the camera to examine it, I noticed a very familiar twist-out style lens, and the shutter was working, which gave me confidence in my purchase. Talking to the person at Stoll about pricing for the camera, I offered a reasonably low price, which they rejected. However, they came back with a counteroffer, which I needed to consider for a while.

 As I spent more time examining different stalls and cameras. Still, my mind kept returning to the Photax 1 camera, which is the large camera with the untwisting lens. Before I left the flea market, I went back to the stall and renegotiated the price with the camera owner, coming to an agreeable price and purchasing the camera.

 This camera was one that I wanted to write about. It's an unusual-shaped camera made of Bakelite and is quite large. When I opened the back of the camera, I noticed that it was a 6 x 9 cm format, which intrigued me. Many of the cameras made by 

MIOM we're a smaller format, generally 6 x 4.5 cm.

 Let me tell you a little bit about the company.

History:

 MIOM (Manufacture d'Instruments d'Optique et de Mécanique) was a French company known for producing optical and mechanical instruments in the mid-20th century, particularly cameras. The firm operated mainly from the post-World War II era into the 1960s, a time when France was striving to rebuild its industrial base and compete in the rapidly evolving consumer goods market.

 MIOM's roots were in precision engineering, and the company initially focused on optical devices before expanding into the field of photographic equipment. Its location in France allowed it to tap into a tradition of fine optical craftsmanship, drawing on expertise that had developed in Paris and other industrial centers since the 19th century.

 In the camera field, MIOM was best known for manufacturing compact and affordable models aimed at the amateur photography market. Among their most recognizable products was the MIOM Photax series—a line of simple, durable cameras using roll film. The Photax models often featured Bakelite bodies, a lightweight and inexpensive molded plastic popular in mid-century camera production. These cameras were designed for ease of use, appealing to the growing middle class and to families seeking to document their lives without investing in complex photographic gear.

 The Photax range evolved over the years, with various iterations accommodating different film formats, primarily 6×9 cm images on 120 roll film, and later 4.5×6 cm formats. Some models incorporated basic focusing and exposure controls, while others remained strictly fixed-focus, point-and-shoot devices. Though not technically advanced compared to contemporary offerings from Germany or Japan, MIOM's cameras were reliable, affordable, and accessible, helping to democratize photography in France.

 MIOM also ventured into specialized cameras, including stereo models, reflecting the brief postwar enthusiasm for 3D photography. Their designs maintained the company's hallmark of straightforward construction and modest pricing.

By the late 1960s, increasing competition from Japanese manufacturers, whose products offered superior optics and more advanced features at competitive prices, had eroded MIOM's market position. The brand gradually faded, and production ceased as the company either closed or shifted away from photographic equipment.

 Today, MIOM's cameras—especially the early Bakelite Photax models—are collected for their retro aesthetic and as examples of France's postwar consumer design. While they may never have rivaled the technical prowess of major brands, MIOM's work remains an essential chapter in the history of accessible, everyday photography.

 Below is a timeline outlining the evolution of MIOM's Photax camera series.

 1937 – Photax I- MIOM launches its photographic division with several models, including the original Photax (also branded as Camera 77, Loisirs), all of which use 120 film for 6×9 cm images. The Photax I is recognizable by its centrally positioned shutter button and Guillotine shutter, which offers two speeds. 

1938 – Photax II (and Blindé variant)- Introduced in 1938, the Photax II adopts the Boyer Serie VIII meniscus lens and maintains the simple two-speed shutter design. A "blindé" version appears—with a protective Bakelite lens cover that also shields the shutter release. 

1947 – Photax III- Following World War II, MIOM debuts the Photax III, featuring a threaded shutter release and leveraging the same Boyer Serie VIII lens. It introduces additional shutter settings (1/25 sec, 1/100 sec, and T) and continues to use the 620 film format. 

1951 – Photax IV (and IV F)- The Photax IV arrives with a Boyer Rexar meniscus lens and identical shutter options as the III, with enhanced flash synchronization. The IV F variant includes flash sync capabilities via a RIM shutter. 

1955 – Photax V- A stylish redesign marks the launch of Photax V in 1955. It features a modernized Bakelite aesthetic, bi-format capability (6×9 and 6×6 cm), and upgrades to an Angénieux Heanar Type V lens with full flash sync via RIM shutter 

1960–1962 – Photax VI -The final model in the Photax lineage, produced between 1960 and 1962, transitions from Bakelite to molded plastic, featuring a sleek, streamlined design. It's a square-format 6×6 medium-format camera that utilizes an Angénieux Heanar Type VI lens and RIM shutter with flash synchronization.

 My Camera:

 My camera is 6 1/2 inches wide by 4 1/2 inches tall by 4 inches deep when the lens is unscrewed. In its closed position, the lens is 3 1/4 inches long. Without the case, my camera weighs 1 pound, 2.7 ounces.  The lens on the camera is a Boyer, Series VII lens.

The Photax 1 was produced for approximately one to two years, from 1939 to 1940. The Photax 1 camera uses 120 film, a departure from MIOM's earlier cameras, which used 127 film. As I mentioned earlier, this is a 6 x 9 cm format camera. The Photax 1 was sold with a film mask that allowed the photographer to shoot in the 6 x 4.5 cm format. Unfortunately, when I purchased this camera, the mask was missing, so my camera is only compatible with the 6 x 9 format.

 To extend the lines, there is a chrome ring around the lens with a knob at its top. Twist the ring clockwise, and the lens, which is on a helical screw, unscrews and moves into the taking position. The camera's controls are fundamental. There are only two shutter settings. One is "INST", which is for normal snapshots, and "POSE", which is for time exposures. These are changed by a little switch between the two settings. To control the aperture. There is a similar switch beneath the lens. One setting is the larger aperture, which is number one, and the second setting is for a smaller aperture.

There is no lock on the back of the camera to secure the back to the front of the camera body. To open the camera, on the right side, is a little foam plate that you pull away from the camera body, and the back of the camera comes off. To load the camera, follow a process similar to loading a 120 format or 120 film-style camera. The first thing you would do is to take the take-up spool from the right side of the camera and place it on the left side, under the film, and under the film advance knob. Place a fresh roll of film on the right-hand side and bring the leader over the shutter area. Insert the leader into the slot of the take-up spool and begin winding, ensuring the film advances smoothly. You turn the advance knob until you see "start" on the film's paper backing. At this point, put the back on the camera by just pressing it onto the camera‘s body.

At this point, wind the film advance knob until you see the number 1 in the first window, which is designated for the 6x9cm format. For the 6 x 4.5 format, you would wind until you see the number one in the number one window. After you take the picture, wind until you see the number one in the number two window. You repeat the steps through number eight, which would be the end of the roll of film. For 6 x 9 cm format images, you get eight images per roll. For 6 x 4.5 cm format, you get 16 pictures per roll of film. 

 IMPORTANT: Be sure to turn the chrome ring so that your lenses are in the taking position before you start taking photographs. Failure to do this will result in your pictures being incredibly out of focus. On other MIOM cameras, if the lens is in the transport position, the shutter will not work. Unfortunately, with this camera, the shutter works when the lens is in the retracted or transporting position.

 The viewfinder on top of the camera is tiny, making it difficult to view your subject when framing your photograph. To take your photograph, the shutter release is located in the upper right-hand corner of the lens. Press the shutter button to take your picture. My camera has a cable release socket, and on the bottom of the camera, there is a tripod socket as well.

My Results:

 I cleaned the lens on the camera, loaded a fresh roll of 120 film, and took a walk around the neighborhood to see how this camera would perform.

 For 100% transparency. I broke my arm two days before I took these photographs. It was challenging to hold the camera while taking the photos, so some of the blur or out-of-focus images may have been caused by camera movement.

 Here are the results.

Conclusion:

 The images produced by the camera were disappointing. I'm not sure if the blur in the

photo was caused by my lack of holding the camera still. According to the information on the back of the camera, the minimum focus distance is approximately 1 m. Many of the photographs I took, I tried to be more than 1 m away from the subject.

 Due to the sunny situation, having only one shutter speed to work with, and using the smallest aperture, the photographs are unimpressive. At this point, I'm not sure I'll use this camera again due to the quality of the images, which I found disappointing, especially considering it's a 6x9 format camera.

 Thank you for taking the time to read about this interesting Camera from France, built in the late 1930s. 

 If you're interested in seeing other camera reviews, click the link.

 I also have a store on eBay where I sell some of the cameras reviewed, along with a host of other photo items, Cuny's Camera & Photo.

This blog is a journey into the world of a camera I stumbled upon during our European escapade last year. Whenever we venture to a new destination, I make it a point to unearth the local flea markets, a treasure trove of unique cameras and photo items that are often elusive in the US. The thrill of discovering these items, especially being on the West Coast, where European finds are a rarity, is an experience in itself. 

 One of my favorite flea markets was just outside Prague, and my wife and I went to it. It was in an industrial area, and we took the train to get to it, but it wasn't so much the cameras and photo items found as the atmosphere of the place that made it memorable. I did find some great cameras there, too, that are harder to find on the West Coast of the US.

 While in Brussels, my wife and I went to a flea market in a square or small park in town. There were about 40-50 vendors there. Most of the items were in boxes with many other items, so you needed to rummage through a lot of items to find what you were looking for. I didn't have much time to look as my wife was under the weather, and it would start to rain later in the morning. I picked up a few Rollei parts for a reasonable and fair price along with this MIOM compact bakelite camera, for which I paid 1-2 euros.

The Company:

Let's delve into the intriguing history of MIOM, a brand that has left an indelible mark on the world of photography. The journey of MIOM begins in 1887 with architect Félicien César and engineer Fabius Henrion, who founded the local lighting distribution company: 'Fabius Henrion et Cie,' with a capital of 100,000 francs in the Nancy and Lorraine region. Despite facing numerous challenges, the company's legacy was preserved when it was acquired by the CGE, Compagnie Générale d'Électricité (General Electric Company), in 1898.

 MIOM, an acronym for Manufacture d'Isolants et Objets Moulés, (Manufacture of Insulators and Molded Objects) was a subsidiary of the Compagnie Générale d'Électricité (General Electric Company) which started in 1929. As the MIOM name suggests, It was created to produce electrical components for the company. 

 As photography grew during this time, MIOM created a photographic department in 1937 that molded simple cameras in "Cégéite," which was similar to what we now call bakelite. The name derived from the name of the parent company: the Compagnie Générale d'Électricité.

MIOM's early cameras were very similar to the model I have. They were very flat in appearance and used 127 film to produce 6x4.5cm negatives. Some of the other early models were the Rex and Lec Junior. I believe the model I have is only known as the MIOM, which is printed on the back. There is no camera name produced on the camera like the REX or other cameras of that time.

Then, in 1938, the cameras took on a different appearance, resembling the Czechoslovakian Pyonyr cameras, designed by Fritz Kaftanski, who had recently moved to France to get away from the war problems taken on within that region during the late 1930s. It's suspected that Fritz Kaftanski was involved in the design of the newer Photax camera.

 The Photax cameras had a larger negative area, used 620-size film, and produced 6x9cm negatives. The Photax design had a lens that rotated out from the body on a helical and included a very simple shutter that only worked when the lens was in the extended position.

This new system was beneficial to amateur photographers at the time. It prevented the camera from accidentally taking a photo if the lens was retracted. The new Photax camera also included lenses from Boyer, a French optical company that produced wonderful optics.

 Photax cameras were the best-selling cameras in France for 20 years and produced cameras well into the 1960s, with the Photax VI released in 1966. However, like many European camera manufacturers of the era, MIOM faced significant challenges in the 1960s with the rise of Japanese brands such as Nikon, Canon, and Minolta.  

 Today, MIOM's legacy lives on in the vintage camera market, where its models are sought after for their distinctive design and the quality of their optical systems. The story of MIOM reminds us of a golden age in photography when craftsmanship and innovation defined the industry.

My Camera:

This description should be straightforward and short, as this camera is simple without many bells or whistles. However, its simplicity and unique design make it a valuable addition to any vintage camera collection.

 My MIOM camera is 3.5" tall, including the viewfinder, by 5.5" wide, including the strap lugs, and 3" deep, weighing 9.4oz. It is very lightweight and compact. On the front of the camera, there are two shutter options. These settings are on the top and bottom of the 60mm Rexor lens, serial number 3147, on the camera. The camera has a crinkle finish within the acrylic, which makes the gripping easy and somewhat drop proof.

Above the lens are your shutter settings: "I" for instant, which has a shutter speed of approximately 1/50 sec., or "P" (B) for timed photos. Below the lens are two options for aperture settings. Looking online at other information on the Photax camera, the settings are 1 (Grand Diaphragme) for f16 or 2 (Petite Diaphragme) for f22. The words in the paratheses are written inside the camera's back door.

There is no latch or lock to hold the back onto the camera to load the MIOM camera with film. The back is held onto the camera's body with friction, and the back fits snuggly onto the camera's body. On either side of the camera are a couple of protrusions. I put my fingernail in between these nubs and pull, and the back will pull away from the body. You must do this on both sides so as not to crack the plastic and render the camera useless.

Once you get the back off the camera, I notice there are two red dots on the protruding nubs, which indicate which side fits together. The camera winds to the left, so you put the empty spool from the previous 127 rolls from the right side to the left and put the fresh roll of 127 films into the right side. Break the tape on the roll and bring the leader to the empty spool. Thread the leader into the spool slots and wind the film a few turns to ensure the film is lining up on the spool or until you see the arrows on the paper backing pointing outwards. Once you reach this point, it's time to put the back onto the camera. Once the back is on the camera, wind the film until you see the number 1 in the red window. Now you're ready to take the first photo.

 Once you take the photo and wind to the next frame, you'll get eight exposures on each roll of 127 film. Now that all the frames are taken, it's time to take the back off the camera and process your film.

My Results:

For total transparency, I had three rolls of older VP 127 film in my drawer. One roll's expiration date was June 1971. That roll went through the camera fine, but when I rolled the film onto the developing reel, something went array, and the film didn't process correctly. I loaded one of the other two rolls I had left, dated Sep.1968. This roll got jammed within the camera, so I'm unsure if I didn't load it properly or, due to the age of the film, it broke, but the film was very crinkled when I went to process it, and none of the images came out.

 It was an operator malfunction, and I didn't load it properly. Five rolls of film are arriving today from one of my favorite camera stores, Glazer’s Camera, in Seattle, WA, so I'd like to take the film, process it, and scan the images today.

I received the film, loaded the camera, walked through the neighborhood, and took images. Luckily, this roll turned out, and you can see the results below.

My Conclusion.

I'm writing this portion of my conclusion before I have images from the camera, so at this point. In contrast, the camera is compact, and an earlier version of the MIOM cameras made, the film issues have made the experience somewhat frustrating. Once I get the images, I'll complete my conclusion and give you an honest assessment of the camera.

The images confirmed my suspicions. The camera was made to put cameras in the masses hands and for them to go and take photos of friends, family, and memorable moments. This camera did a decent job for a camera almost 90 years old. The plastics are rugged and on my camera, I’m missing the rear viewfinder glass so it was a bit more difficult to fame the images, but overall a decent camera.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about this early version of the MIOM cameras.

I can still remember when my wife and I visited Paris about 10-12 years ago and went to a small flea market in one of the arrondissements we were staying near and seeing for the first time the Gallus Derlux camera. My first impression was the camera needed the leather coverings that usually adorn cameras. Still, upon further inspection of the camera, it was made to have a silverish metal body as its covering. This was a camera I needed to have since its appearance was so different from any camera I had seen in the past.

 That was the first Gallus Derlux I've owned over the years. I sold that camera at the Paris flea market a couple of years after purchasing it, and I have bought and sold a couple of other Gallus Derlux cameras over the years. Recently, I had the bug to purchase it again to add to my collection. 

 I talked to a fellow camera collector, and he told me he had one and would sell it to me for a reasonable price, as I know he's downsizing his collection. I need to do the same thing but I purchased it from him. This camera has a working shutter and a nice pouch case. At this point, since I've had a few of these in my life, it's time to put some film in the camera, take it for a spin around the neighborhood, and write a post on it.

The Company:

To discuss the camera company, Gallus, we need to include the German company Foth in this discussion. After WWII, Gallus, which was in Paris, was either licensed by Foth or Foth moved their operation to Pari and renamed the company Gallus due to what was going on in Germany after the war. Let's start with a bit of information on Foth and work our way forward.

 The C.F. Foth Company, established in 1930 in Berlin, Germany, gained recognition for its innovative design and engineering of compact cameras. The Foth Derby series stands out as a celebrated line of cameras known for their portability, affordability, and reliability. The original models were a less expensive alternative to the more expensive Leica and Contax cameras of their time, but they utilized 127 film as opposed to 35mm from Leica and Contax. These cameras catered to the needs of amateur photographers and gained a reputation for their high-quality performance in a compact form.

 The Foth Derby cameras were introduced in the 1930s and remained in production through the late 1940s. They were designed with portability in mind, featuring a folding bellows system and compact dimensions that made them a popular choice for travelers and casual photographers. The cameras used 127 roll film, producing images in 4x6.5 cm format, a size well-suited for personal and artistic photography.

One of the defining features of the Foth Derby was its focal-plane shutter, which was uncommon in compact cameras of its time. This shutter system allowed for faster shutter speeds, up to 1/500th of a second, allowing photographers to capture motion and shoot in bright lighting conditions. The Derby series was also equipped with high-quality lenses, such as the Foth Anastigmat, or later upgraded models like the Foth Derby Anastigmat f/3.5, ensuring sharp and well-resolved images.

 The Foth Derby evolved through several iterations, each offering incremental improvements and adaptations to meet changing photographic trends. Here are some general differences:

Foth Derby I (1930): The original model featured a basic lens and a simple shutter mechanism. It utilized a 24x36mm format on 127 film and was praised for its ease of use and portability, making it accessible to novice photographers. 

Foth Derby II (1931-): This version introduced the 3x4 (30x40mm) film format. The camera's build quality was also refined for greater durability, and several different lens options were offered.

Foth Derby III (1935-39): This model had several different viewfinder and lens options. Some models had interchangeable mounts that allowed the use of some Zeiss and Dallmeyer lenses.

Foth Derby IV (1936-40): This model had an aluminum front standard that housed an integrated rangefinder for focus. It also offered a choice of different lens options.

 Somewhere around 1937, the combination of both Foth and Gallus became intertwined because in 1937, Foth came out with:

Derby V: Made by C.F. Foth & Cie in Paris. It still has the 30x40 film format on 127 film, but the build quality was a bit rougher coming out of the French factory.

Gallus Derby (1937-) was the start of the Gallus line of cameras, taken from the Foth Derby. The build quality was rougher than that of the German-made cameras and about 10% heavier.

 As a collector, you can see the progression of design and features from the Foth Derby and how it morphed into the Gallus Derlux, using part of the Derby and Delux naming and wanting to separate from the originating company.

My Camera:

My Gallus Derlux camera is 5" wide by 3" tall by 2" deep with the lens retracted and 3" with the lens extended in the usual picture-taking position. My camera weighs just under 15 oz, at 14.9 oz. and has a Gallus 50mm f3.5 lens built into the camera. The camera is a fundamental one without an integrated focusing system, but rather a simple viewfinder on top of the camera for general framing of the photo you desire. The Gallus Derlux has a vertical focal plane shutter and takes 16 30x40mm exposures on a roll of 127 film. 

To take a photo, you must pull the front lens section from the body. The lens plate has a small "hump: on the top and bottom to grip onto to pull the lens plate away from the camera body. The lens plate is on a strut on either side of the plate, which exposes the internal bellows built into the camera. After taking photos, you push the lens plate back into the body, where it stays for transportation. This makes the camera slimmer and more manageable to slip into the case or pocket for transportation.

 The lens and focus system are located on the lens plate. To focus the lens, hold onto the larger focus arm, which is very similar to what's used on the Leica system, and rotate the helicoid lens to the desired guessed distance to the subject. There is a stop arm, so you cannot unscrew the lens from the body. The minimum focus distance is 1 meter to infinity. The aperture settings are on the lens. The aperture goes from f3.5 to F18. To adjust the aperture, turn the lens to the desired aperture settings, which is the same indicator that tells the focus distance. This makes it easy to use because you can set aperture and focus in the same area.

The shutter speeds are set on the camera's top. The shutter speeds go from 1/500 down to 1/25, along with "B" for timed exposures. To set the different shutter speeds, you need to lift the shutter speed dial and rotate the dial to the desired speed, which is indicated by a small dot. You also need to wind the shutter to cock the shutter as it's not incorporated in the winding process, which is what most current cameras have. To cock the shutter, just turn the knob on top of the camera, which have the shutter speed on it in the clockwise direction until it stops. The shutter is now cocked and ready for the subsequent exposure. The shutter release is located on the front of the camera on the right side and just next to the film plate.

The Gallus Derlux utilizes two red (and green) windows on the back of the camera. These two windows are inside an immense depth-of-field scale on the back of the camera. Two windows allow the photographer to get 16 images on 127-size film. 

The film doors release is located on the right side of the camera to load the camera with film. Pull down the release button and swing the door open, which exposes the film chamber. Take the blank 127 reels from the right side of the film chamber by pulling up the knob above it and taking out the blank reel. Put the blank 127 film reel into the left side where the film transport knob is located. Lift the winding knob to insert the blank reel. Put your fresh and unexposed roll in the right chamber and press down the knob that holds it into place. Put the paper from the unexposed toll into the blank reel and wind it, ensuring the film moves. Stop when you see "start" and close the back of the camera.

  To get 16 exposures on your roll of 127 film, wind the roll of film in the camera to frame number 1 to the first window, which on this camera is the window on the right-hand side of the backdoor. After you take that photo, wind the film until you see frame number 1 in the other window or the one on the left side of the backdoor. After you take that photo, frame number 2 will appear on the right side of the red window. Continue this process until frame number 8 is taken on the left side of the window. Wind until the film is all the way onto the take-up spool, open the back, and take the film out for processing.

My Results:

I put a roll of 400 ISO film in the camera and wandered around my backyard and the neighborhood streets. I used 400 ISO because the fall and winter in my neck of the woods are usually overcast. During my walk, the sun just so happened to come out, so I was forced to use the faster speeds on the camera.

After I took the photos and processed the film, I also noticed a gap between the two shutter curtains when winding the shutter to the next photo, causing a light leak on many of the images. I must have pointed the camera down or had the lens in a darker area several times because there were a few good images, but many were terrible. I also don't have a lens cap for this camera, so the next time I use the camera, I'll need to cover the lens when cocking the shutter so I don't expose the film to light before or after exposure.

 If you have this or similar cameras and are mechanically inclined, I found a great article on someone overhauling the shutter on his Gallus Derby Lux camera.

 Conclusion:

This was a fun camera to use. It's very simple, takes a nice larger image, and is small and compact. I'll need to find a lens cap for the one before I shoot again or just place my hand over the lens when cocking the shutter.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to look over this post.