Indigenous Inspirations: The Kaba dress
Presenting a new series, ‘Indigenous Inspirations’ where we explore the rich sartorial traditions and textile art forms of diverse countries and cultures.
In the wake of the current global scenario, it is important,more than ever, to promote and reclaim the power back to cultures that deserve to be preserved and appreciated, to bring the spotlight back to the richness and beauty of these cultures, including their clothing history.
Keeping that in mind, In the first edition of Indigenous Inspirations, We take a look at the Kaba, a beautiful dress worn by the women of Cameroon, In Central Africa.
Above: An artistic rendition of a modern interpretation of Kaba partly based on the writer’s memory
I have a personal story associated with how I first came across this beautiful garment. Noticing an exchange student walk past in a beautiful and colorful garment i didn’t know the name of, It was also the silhouette, which looking at from afar, consisted of a gored skirt and (If I recollect correctly) A top reminscent of a peplum silhouette. Being a fashion student at the time, I walked up to her and complimented her on her beautiful traditional dress and asked her about the same. “It’s called a Kaba”, She said, and up close, the combination of the colors yellow, red, blue, green, seemed to match perfectly with her beautiful and smooth ebony skin, accessorised with simple, colorful beaded earrings.
A quick google search after this conversation on ‘ Kaba’ and ‘Cameroon’ provided with very little written information, but a substancial amount of Caba images, consisting of various silhouettes and prints.
Here is a compilation of those pictures and some information on the beautiful garment, that is the Kaba.
The Kaba, is a maxi dress with a yoke, extending from above the bust, worn by the Sawa women of Cameroon. While the authentic kaba is usually a maxi dress, most women tend to call any loose fitted dress sewn with Batik or Wax visco fabric as a Kaba.
The Kaba is thought to have been created by Hélène Saker, the wife of missionary Alfred Saker, to ‘ cover the naked bodies of her husband’s servants, and make them presentable before God and missionaries, such as her husband.’
Certain sources, however, seem to claim that the Kaba is purely of Cameroonian conception and origin.
Regardless, According to Cameroon Gallery, the Kaba created by Hélène had no glamour or beauty, and resembled a ‘large bag’ consisting of 4 openings: 2 sleeves, and one opening each for the head and feet.
As the Kaba spread beyond the maid-servants and into the daily wardrobe of the women, It underwent many transformations, and the Kaba came to represent the history and culture of the women of the coast of Cameroon, and has also become the outift of choice for the Sawa women during the festival of Ngondo.
The Kaba finds relevance in the present day as the honorary garment of some respected women, such as elders and high-class ladies.
Incorporating various eye-catching prints and stylish modern silhouettes, the modern-day Kaba seems to reflect the changing tastes of modern Cameroonian women, with google search suggestions such as ‘latest kaba styles 2020′.
The Kaba and slit silhouette, often worn in Ghana, consists of a blouse and a skirt.
Modern interpretations of Kaba also consist of innovative and eye-catching looks such as the one below.
Modern day adaptations inspired by the Kaba into day to day dresses consisting of simple silhouettes, keeping intact the eye-catching prints and colors of the original can also be seen.
In recent times, the Kaba has also inspired young African fashion designers in their collections. One such collection, is ‘Ngondo’, a 2018 Resort Collection hy Maison D’Afie.
(You can read the original blogpost on the collection written by a Nigerian Fashion and lifestyle blog,here.)
The collection,Ngondo, draws inspiration from the Kaba, worn by the Cameroonian women in colonial times. The colors used in the collection also reflect the culture and lifestyle of the Sawa tribe, from where, Sarah Divine-Garba, the creative director of the brand hails from.
The collection re-interprets the style elements of traditional kaba into modern and elegant silhouettes, with numerous alterations to the original silhouette, using techniques such as pleats, and elaborate sleeve styles and rich yet subdued colors of green, and brown, with accents of colors such as yellow and pink, also incorporating prints reminscent of the original Kaba.
One thing that binds the traditional Kaba and it’s modern interpretations, is that it represents the aspirations and rich cultural heritage of the culture it hails from.
A garment that symbolises deep cultural meaning, the future of this beautiful garment,Kaba, seems bright and promising.
