#drinking chocolate

Giving chocolates is a way to show your love on Valentines Day. Human beings have been in love with chocolate and the Cacao tree (Theobroma cacao) for thousands of years, and today we will learn about the romance of culture and chocolate.

Although Cacao is most famously associated with Mesoamerican cultures, genetic studies indicate that Cacao was domesticated by indigenous Americans around 5,300 years ago in the Upper Amazon region. From there, Cacao cultivation spread north to Mexico. The Cacao fruit pulp was more commonly consumed in South America in Pre Columbian times while the Mesoamericans invented the technique of fermentation and roasting to utilise the Cacao nibs.

Archaeological evidence, such as chemical residues on ancient pottery shards, pinpoints the first use of Cacao drinks in Mesoamerica around 1600 BCE. By the time of the Classical Mayan civilization (250-900 CE), ground cacao nibs were mixed with water and spices by careful pouring between vessels to make a nourishing and invigorating hot drink which was consumed by people of all social classes. In the later Mexica (Aztec) civilization, cold cacao drink or xocoatl (bitter water in Nahuatl) exquisitely flavoured with flowers, fruits, chillies, and spices was reserved for the elite and ceremonial occasions. Cacao seeds were used as a form of currency for trade and barter during the Mexica Empire.

After the conquest of the Mexica Empire by Spain in 1521, cacao was one of the many new plant-based foods brought to Europe. In Spain, the locals of Andalusia experimented with the spicy xocoatl by adding cane sugar and dairy ingredients. It is said that drinking chocolate was so universally popular from the 17th century to the late 19th century that it prevented coffee from becoming mainstream in Spanish culture. Drinking chocolate caught on in the rest of Europe in the 1600’s but it was not until the mid 19th century that innovation in processing and chemistry allowed the invention of solid chocolate candies. Cadbury chocolate company is credited with marketing chocolates as a token of love for Valentines Day in 1868.

Chocolate in the modern world is not always a sweet story. Today, approximately 70% of the world’s cacao is produced in West African countries like Ghana and the Ivory Coast. Sadly, exploitative practices like child labour and enslavement are still rife in these countries’ Cacao farms. Chocolate lovers can help by buying Fair Trade certified chocolate products and other responsibly grown cacao products. Fortunately, cacao can be grown in sustainable agroforestry alongside native rainforest trees especially in Latin America. Cacao’s sacred and medicinal properties are experiencing a renaissance among “chocolate shamans” around the world who drawn upon indigenous knowledge to make the ethical production and mindful consumption of cacao a healing spiritual experience.

Humanity and Cacao have a long-lasting love that continues to evolve over time, and has the potential to benefit plants, people, and the planet. Ponder the storied history of Cacao if you indulge in chocolate this Valentines Day.

1955 Cadbury's Drinking Chocolate

RECIPE: Chocolate de Agua or Oaxacan-Style Drinking Chocolate (from Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico by Bricia Lopez and Javier Cabral)

Chocolate is as important to Oaxaca as mole. You can’t have one without the other. Chocolate is a way of life, and it is something you drink every single day because it traditionally uses water instead of milk. During the Day of the Dead celebrations, chocolate is on every single altar in Oaxaca. In my mom’s hometown of Mitla, when somebody dies, it is tradition to bring their surviving family cacao beans at the wake as an offering. When you go to a wedding or baptism, the first thing they greet you with is a cup of chocolate and pan dulce. It’s not your regular hot chocolate and it is definitely not Abuelita’s brand chocolate, which is not even real chocolate to begin with. I highly recommend that you take the time to seek a true Mexican chocolate made with real stoneground cacao beans that actually tastes a little bitter. Always look at the ingredient label to make sure you’re not just buying chocolate-flavored tablets as opposed to ground-up cacao. Real Mexican chocolate is usually a little more expensive. We sell Villa Real in our online shop.

Serves 4

5¼ ounces (150 g) Mexican chocolate

In a large saucepan, bring 4 cups (1 L) of water (see Tip) to a boil. Right before it boils, add the brick of chocolate and turn off the heat.

Using a molinillo or whisk, mash the chocolate as best as you can until it dissolves and then whisk until frothy.

TIP: The water can be substituted with milk if you prefer a richer drinking chocolate.

A colorful celebration of Oaxacan cuisine from the landmark Oaxacan restaurant in Los Angeles

Oaxaca is the culinary heart of Mexico, and since opening its doors in 1994, Guelaguetza has been the center of life for the Oaxacan community in Los Angeles. Founded by the Lopez family, Guelaguetza has been offering traditional Oaxacan food for 25 years. The first true introduction to Oaxacan cuisine by a native family, each dish articulates their story, from Oaxaca to the streets of Los Angeles and beyond. Showcasing the “soul food” of Mexico, Oaxaca offers 140 authentic, yet accessible recipes using some of the purest pre-Hispanic and indigenous ingredients available. From their signature pink horchata to the formula for the Lopez’s award-winning mole negro, Oaxaca demystifies this essential cuisine.