The main thing about a modification like this is to go slowly and only remove a bit at a time. You can always take more off, but it’s harder than hell to put back.

I took a grey colored pencil and some tape and made a ring around the neck where I would like to take some height off. Since my cutting wheel is thicker I’m going to have to stay on the one side of the line so I don’t take off too much.

I did make note of the curve in front, but ultimately decided that I didn’t need it. If I had kept it I would have used a diamond file mandrel to gently carve that in.

For this I grab my Dremel Lite with a thin cutoff wheel. On the lowest speed I start going around the neck, making sure everything lines up. Double check that you have a good grip on everything and are purposeful with your movements. A dremel bit can get away easily and create unwanted marks in the resin.

As always when working with resin, wear a mask. I also keep wet towels next to me to control the amount of dust that tried to escape.

I love a good, clean cut.

For our next act, the neck needs to be curved down and smoothed. Again with my Dremel, I employ my nail sanding bands. These are made for sanding nails, but I find them perfect for doll modification as they come in different grits from #80 to #240. The 80 grit is harsh and that’s what you reach for when you want to remove a lot of resin NOW, but today I use #150 to start shaping the neck.

This is where you want to go epically slow and check the fit of your doll’s head often. Rotate the head around and check the range of motion and also look inside to see if the neck is making contact with the inside of the head, this way you can judge whether to skinny up the neck more or give a greater curve to the top.

After you are satisfied with the shape and fit, it’s time to do a finishing sand. I like to use a wet/dry #400 by hand because it leaves a satin smooth finish that typically matches most BJD finishes and the “tooth” that their resin already has. Do small circular motions around the neck that way you don’t leave any sanding marks. Double check on the blending between your sanded area and the unsanded area. This is where shadows can reveal an odd ledge and make the mod look unfinished.

Now! Do your final fit check and suede the head if needed for extra grip.

There she is! I probably took about 6mm off in the end, but it was enough to make a difference. I’m so happy to have Enya whole again.

It’s truly amazing to see how far BJD engineering has come. The joints are beautifully made with posability that was just a dream in the early 2000s. I still remember when everyone lost their mind when jointed hands were first introduced and there were close to $200 a pair.

🥰