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A weekly blog on my DIY journey into conquering the blogosphere. My first week of part-time blogging has ended. An introduction link is at the bottom of the page. I have put aside 2-6 am five days a week to begin my blogging upgrade and starting a potential part-time career and move into semi-retirement. Simple. But not so. I am now cramming my work into 4 and 6 am starts as my online business…

One of the first questions we are frequently asked here at Pairfum London are: - "What are Olfactive Families?" and - "How do you describe your Favourite Perfume?" When confronted by the shear volume of fragrances available, it can be so easy to get overwhelmed by the different varieties of scents. One way of discovering your 'New' favourite perfume, or a way to discover more about your go-to classic is to use Olfactive families. "Easier said than done", ... I hear you say.

History

However, before we go into the definition or classification of the olfactive families We should ask ourselves who or what defines or gives us these classifications, when did it begin and do they differ? It should also be 'noted' (we do love using Perfume terms), that Olfactive families do not refer to ingredient classifications, but refer solely to the finished Perfume. In essence (there we go again), it is a way to describe and classify how a perfume smells rather than what it contains. The first classification of fragrances surfaced around the 1900, and consisted of seven families, however in the late 19th Century as techniques for synthesising compounds became more intricate, so did the need to evolve the methods for categorising them. Then in 1949 an Austrian perfumer called 'Paul Jellinek' devised the first fragrance wheel, which he called the 'Odor Effects Diagram'. This is a round diagram showing the inferred relationships among olfactory groups based upon the similarities or differences in their odor. On the fragrance wheel, perfume groups that border one another are implied to share common olfactory characteristics. Since it's creation there have been many other notable versions of the wheel. Which include the version from 1983 by perfumer Michael Edwards, and the 'Fragrance Circle' which was developed in 1979 by U. Harder at 'Haarman & Reimer' which has since become part of  Symrise. Since its creation Edwards version of the Fragrance Wheel has been modified several times through the addition of different groups to encompass different fragrance types. With the latest revision being in 2010, in this version there are four standard families, Floral, Oriental, Woody and Fresh, these are in turn then divided into three further sub-groups.

Different Classification Systems

In the wonderful world of Perfume there are a number of major 'Perfume Houses', four of which are: - Firmenich, - Givaudan, - IFF and - Symrise. By 'Perfume Houses' we do not refer to major brands that have as part of their offerings or collections released 'Perfumes' for sale. Such as the illustrious brands of 'Channel', 'Dior', 'Estee Lauder', 'Versace' or 'Gucci', to name but a few. When referencing 'Perfume Houses' in this article we are referring to the eminent classical houses, such as Firmenich and Symrise among others, where some of the 'Top Perfumers' in the world were nurtured, trained and in some cases still reside. Within these 'Houses' they also have their specific way of classifying perfumes, which differ from each other for example: Firmenich classifies their perfumes in the following way: Chypre, Citrus, Floral, Oriental, Aromatic and Woody.  Other companies such as Symrise, IFF or Givaudan, use different classifications.

The Olfactive Families

As mentioned above, there are  major families in the olfactive group - Citrus, Chypre, Floral, Floriental, Aromatic, Citrus, Oriental and Woody. Each one of these olfactive families can then be split into several subfamilies. THE CITRUS FAMILY By "citrus", we mean the essential oils obtained by extracting the zest from fruits such as bergamot, lemon, orange, mandarin, etc., combined with orange flower products. In this group we find the main "Eau de Cologne" fragrances used by men and women. Also included in this group are - SPICY CITRUS, AROMATIC CITRUS, FLORAL CHYPRE CITRUS, WOODY CITRUS, FLORAL WOODY CITRUS and MUSKY CITRUS. THE FLORAL FAMILY This family consists of fragrances with a single flower as their main component, such as  jasmine, rose, , violet, tuberose, lily of the valley narcissus, to name but a few. Also belonging to this family are SOLIFLORE (single-flower) as the name suggests is used when a single floral note is needed, FLORAL MUSKY, FLORAL BOUQUET, FLORAL ALDEHYDIC, FLORAL GREEN, FLORAL FRUITY WOODY, FLORAL WOODY,  FLORAL MARINE, FLORAL FRUITY.

THE FOUGERE FAMILY This term which is associated by many with fern, does not in fact claim to represent a fern fragrance. It consists mainly of a blend of notes made up of lavender, woody, oak moss, coumarin, and bergamot notes. The other family members within this clan are FLORAL AMBER FOUGERE, SOFT AMBER FOUGERE, SPICY FOUGERE, AROMATIC FOUGERE, FRUITY FOUGERE. THE CHYPRE FAMILY It has been suggested that the chypre fragrance construction dates back to Roman times, and 'chypre' as the name for an accord is often mentioned in 18th Century. However others suggest that this type of fragrance was popularised by the release of 'Chypre de Coty' in 1917  by pioneering perfumer François Coty. Whichever line of thought you choose to follow, the following acords are also part of this sub-group - FRUITY CHYPRE, FLORAL ALDEHYDIC CHYPRE, LEATHER CHYPRE, AROMATIC CHYPRE, GREEN CHYPRE, FLORAL CHYPRE. THE WOODY FAMILY When warm, opulent notes, such as sandalwood or patchouli, or dry notes such as cedar or vetiver, are combined with top notes of lavender and citrus, then the Woody Family is born. This family is made up of WOODY, WOODY CITRUS CONIFEROUS, WOODY SPICY, WOODY AMBER, WOODY AROMATIC, WOODY SPICY LEATHER, WOODY MARINE, WOODY FRUITY, WOODY MUSKY. AMBER-ORIENTAL Under the heading of "AMBER" or "ORIENTAL", we find fragrances with soft powdery notes, vanilla, cistus, labdanum and animal very dominant. Six sub-groups of ambers are listed: SOFT AMBER, FLORAL SPICY AMBER, CITRUS AMBER, FLORAL WOODY AMBER, FLORIENTAL, FLORAL FRUITY AMBER. THE LEATHER FAMILY This has an exceptional formula, a slightly different concept of perfumery with dry, sometimes very dry notes, in the aim of trying to reproduce the characteristic fragrance of leather (smoke, burnt wood, silver birch, tobacco...) and top notes with floral inflexions. The subfamilies are: FLORAL LEATHER, TOBACCO LEATHER The leather note is tempered with wood, honey and hay harmonies which characterize the virginian tobacco note. THE FRUITY FAMILY This olfactive group has no limits: beautiful, fruity fragrances with berries (strawberries, raspberries, loganberries, blueberries, ...), sweet juicy fruit (peaches, nectarines, mango, papaya, ...), tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple,... ), Kiwi, melons, ... there are always new enticing fruit varieties to try. Unlike the afore mentioned catogories, Skin Care and Toiletries products typically take the lead here. Shower gels, soaps or lotions are more likely to introduce a new type of fruit than an Eau de Toilette.

Conclusion - Olfactive Families

Olfactive families aren’t a method for categorising ingredients but the actual notes in perfumery. In essence, it was a way to break down and class how a perfume smells rather than what it contains. Although many fragrances can be described with about 10-20 dominant notes, there are literally thousands in perfumery, and olfactive families are used to group perfumes by their profiles. Any Parfumista or Connoisseur in the field of perfume will enjoy browsing the following articles on our website for more in-depth insights into the world of fragrance: - How to Describe Perfume? - What is a Fragrance Pyramid? - What is a Perfume Accord? - How to Evaluate Perfume? - Answers to Frequently Asked Question on Perfume

Many of our clients ask: "can you please explain in simple terms the different perfume strengths?" When navigating the labyrinthine world of fragrances, there is an array of terms that can confound even the most seasoned connoisseur. From Eau Fraiche to Attar, each classification represents a unique concentration of pure fragrance oils, offering a distinct olfactory experience. In this article, we unraveling the nuances of each perfume strength to provide clarity and simplify your choice.

Perfume or Parfum: The Epitome of Opulence

At the pinnacle of fragrance potency resides Perfume, an embodiment of luxury and refinement. Boasting an astonishing concentration of up to 40% pure essence, Perfume envelops the wearer in an aura of unparalleled richness. Its application is an exercise in restraint, with a mere dab on pulse points sufficing to unleash a symphony of scent that lingers throughout the day. Renowned for its enduring allure, Perfume captivates the senses with its depth and complexity, leaving an indelible imprint on all who encounter it. Typically, a parfum or perfume is oil based rather than using alcohol to make it easier to dab the pulse points.

Eau de Parfum: A Harmonious Symphony

For those seeking a potent yet versatile fragrance experience, Eau de Parfum emerges as a beacon of sophistication. With essence concentrations exceeding 15%, this exquisite elixir exudes an aura of refined elegance. Its robust base notes provide a solid foundation for the fragrance, ensuring longevity without overwhelming the senses. Ideal for both daytime and evening wear, Eau de Parfum strikes a delicate balance between potency and accessibility, captivating the senses with its enduring allure.

Eau de Toilette: A Breath of Freshness

As the quintessential embodiment of daytime luxury, Eau de Toilette enchants with its invigorating vibrancy. With essence concentrations typically ranging around 10%, Eau de Toilette offers a refreshing burst of fragrance that revitalizes the senses. Although its ephemeral nature necessitates periodic reapplication, its affordability and versatility make it a perennial favourite among fragrance enthusiasts. Perfect for warm summer days or casual outings, Eau de Toilette embodies the essence of everyday indulgence.

Eau de Cologne: The Essence of Effervescence

Nestled at the lighter end of the fragrance spectrum, Eau de Cologne offers a delightful burst of scents at an accessible price point. With essence concentrations typically hovering around 2-5%, Eau de Cologne delivers a refreshing yet brisk olfactory experience. Its invigorating aroma evokes images of classic barbershops and timeless elegance, making it a staple in every discerning individual's grooming repertoire. Perfect for daily wear or casual outings, Eau de Cologne embodies the essence of understated luxury and effortless charm. Applied liberally to the skin, it imparts a sense of confidence and sophistication, ensuring that the wearer exudes an air of timeless refinement.

Eau Fraiche: A Splash of Serenity

Among the lighter variants of fragrance, Eau Fraiche reigns supreme with its delicate composition and ephemeral charm. Consisting of a mere 1-3% essence, Eau Fraiche offers a fleeting yet refreshing olfactory experience. Its subtle aroma evokes images of sun-kissed shores and gentle breezes, making it an ideal choice for casual wear or moments of relaxation. Applied liberally to the skin, Eau Fraiche imparts a sense of serenity and tranquility, enveloping the wearer in a cloud of delicate fragrance.

Eau de Parfum Intense: A Bold Expression of Sensuality

For those craving an intensified olfactory experience, Eau de Parfum Intense delivers an alluring blend of potency and allure. With essence concentrations surpassing 20%, this potent elixir exudes a captivating aura of sensuality and sophistication. Its rich and complex fragrance profile captivates the senses, leaving an indelible impression on all who encounter it. Perfect for special occasions or evening wear, Eau de Parfum Intense offers a bold expression of individuality and allure.

Aftershave / Cologne: A Classic Refinement

Steeped in tradition and timeless elegance, Aftershave or Cologne exudes a classic charm that transcends generations. With essence concentrations ranging from 2-5%, this venerable elixir offers a refreshing burst of fragrance that invigorates the senses. Its brisk and invigorating aroma evokes images of barbershop classics and gentlemanly refinement, making it a staple in every discerning individual's grooming arsenal. Applied liberally to the skin, Aftershave or Cologne imparts a sense of confidence and sophistication, ensuring that the wearer exudes an air of timeless charm.

Splash Cologne / Spritzer: A Casual Elegance

Embodying the essence of effortless sophistication, Splash Cologne or Spritzer offers a delightful burst of fragrance in a convenient and versatile format. With essence concentrations typically ranging around 3-5%, this lightweight elixir provides a refreshing pick-me-up throughout the day. Its invigorating aroma enlivens the senses, imparting a sense of casual elegance and refinement. Ideal for daily wear or casual outings, Splash Cologne or Spritzer epitomizes understated luxury and effortless charm.

Attar: The Essence of Exoticism

Originating from the mystical lands of the East, Attar exudes an aura of exoticism and allure. Crafted from natural botanical extracts and essential oils, this concentrated fragrance oil offers a rich and intoxicating olfactory experience. Applied sparingly to pulse points, Attar envelops the wearer in a veil of seductive fragrance that lingers throughout the day. Renowned for its depth and complexity, Attar captivates the senses with its evocative aroma, transporting the wearer to distant realms of mystery and intrigue. Attars are not simple a 'different perfume strength' but they also offer a different formulation: instead of using perfumer's alcohol, Attars are oil based. This creates a longer lasting fragrance, particularly in higher temperature countries, e.g. Arabic countries. The downside is the missing burst of perfume that is typical of the different concentrations mentioned above.

Conclusion: Different Perfume Strengths for a Reason

The diversity of different perfume strengths offers a kaleidoscope of olfactory delights, each tailored to suit diverse preferences and occasions. Whether indulging in the opulent allure of Perfume or embracing the invigorating freshness of Eau de Toilette, the choice ultimately rests on personal preference. We hope you can now venture forth with confidence, armed with the knowledge of the different fragrance strengths, and embark on a scented journey that resonates with your unique style and sensibilities. After all, true elegance lies in the art of selecting a fragrance that speaks to the soul of both you and those around you. Here at Pairfum London, we are dedicated to exceptional, Natural Niche Perfume and we only present Eau de Parfum Intense, as it speaks the language of fragrance most clearly. We invite you to explore our range, whether it is in the form of a full sized 100ml, a travel size 30ml or our Perfume Experience Box.