#corset pattern

In this post, I will discuss my experience constructing the corset/bodice thing (henceforth, corset) for my Briar Rose cosplay, including the pattern drafting and sewing.

Once I had the general idea of what my corset should look like, I had to start figuring out the details like how to get the fit I want and how it should close. The most important consideration, though, was whether I wanted the corset to actually function at all like a real corset. Several of the cosplayers I looked at for inspiration had proper lace-up backs and boning in their corsets, and I needed to figure out if including either of those things was worth it to me. The height of the corset would also drastically affect its ability to cinch, regardless. As you can see, I was especially concerned with the closing mechanism of the corset. I decided against having a lace-up back for several reasons:

I would likely need help to get into the corset.

I would need to buy more materials but didn’t have easy access to a store.

I was already in a time pinch working on my cosplay during the school semester.

Briar Rose’s character design has no recognizable details on the back of her corset.

I ended up deciding on having an eyehook closure down the center back (kinda like the back of a bra). I had purchased a number of eyehooks for mending choir dress uniforms (part of my duties as Concert Manager of the choir), and so I had largely all of the materials I would need for this closing mechanism. I also decided against using boning because not only would it add a lot more work but I would also need to buy more materials I had no access to. Because both of these choices meant my corset would not be able to cinch like a normal corset, I felt comfortable making the bottom sit just below my waist instead of by the hips like a normal corset.

The pattern drafting part itself was a relatively straightforward process because I followed a great tutorial from Your Wardrobe Unlock’d: http://yourwardrobeunlockd.com/index-of-articles/costumemaking/paterns/72-corset-drafting2. As per usual, I drafted everything by hand with various rulers and straightedges on newspaper I taped together. I won’t go into too much detail about the drafting process because the steps are laid out very well in the tutorial, but something I learned is it is really important to get very accurate measurements. I accidentally used a slightly larger waist measurement than I really have, so my corset ended up a bit large on me.

After drafting my basic corset pattern, I then had to make the modifications necessary to fit my design. Most notably, I shortened the corset and made it come to a point on the bottom front, and I cut out the V on the top front. 

Addendum to this post!

Just wanted to add some construction notes to this bad boy! If there was ever a good 'beginner corset', it's this one. As the first photo shows, it's ALL panels. (Meaning no triangular insertion bits at bust or hip.) If you can make a simple skirt or bodice, you can make this. If you're afraid of busks and lacing, you can even just sew the center front or center back closed and add a zipper on the other end. (Or buy premade lacing strips and just stitch those bad boys on.) This is me continuing on my mission to show people that corsets really aren't difficult to make!!

While the antique version is incredibly well-made and has a TON of boning channels (possibly boned with fiber rush, quoth Clockwork Faerie), you can take this easy and make it a single-layer corset the same way that I did for the cream mockup I'm wearing in these photos. I sewed all the edges together with a ½" seam allowance, pressed the seams open, and then stitched down those seam flaps at ⅜". This allows you to shove a bone right down the seam. (It's called flat-felling, and usually you also fold the edge of the fabric under for a clean finish, but you don't have to.)

Reminder that this pattern does NOT have seam allowance. You have to add it. And make sure to use a non-wiggly fabric - a midweight cotton twill is perfect. (That's what this is.)

Underbust corset pattern and instructions available on my etsy here!