Dr. Scott and the Nirvana Fish
Beomeosa is located on the eastern slopes of Geumjeong Mountain (Geumjeongsan) in Northern Busan. It is considered a head temple for the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism, representing the Cheongyong-dong district. It is easily one of the Korea's best known and most visited temples.
It was founded and built by the monk Uisang in 678, the 18th year of King Munmu (rule 661-681) of the Silla Kingdom. According to legend, after an attack by Japanese forces, King Munmu had a dream where he was visited by a mountain guardian spirit. He was instructed to climb to the top of Guemjeong Mountain and pray for seven days. After obeying, the guardian spirit would impart his wisdom on how to defeat future Japanese attacks. Both King Munmu and the monk Uisang followed the command, and subsequently defeated the next Japanese attack. To give thanks for the victory, King Munmu ordered the construction of a temple which we know today as Beomeo temple (Beomeosa).
The name Beomeosa roughly translate to "The Heavenly Fish Temple"; Beom (범) = nirvana, eo (어) = fish, and sa (사) = temple. According to another legend, at the top of Geumjeong Mountain there is a well filled with golden water that cannot go dry. Many years ago, a golden fish descended from heaven into the well, giving the water magical properties.
Most of the original Temple site was destroyed during the Imjin War (1592-1598). One exception is the Cheonwangmun Gate (second gate) housing the four guardian kings. Restoration of the temple halls and dormitories was started in 1613 by monks like Ven. Myojeon and Ven. Haemin, and continued for many subsequent years later. One additional hallmark of Beomeosa is the monks training in the famed martial arts discipline sunmundo. This martial art is based on Seon Buddhism; Seon = meditation or zen. Using this training, the monks of Beomeosa famously defeated Japanese invaders during the late 16th century and later as a guerrilla resistance during the Japanese occupation of Korea in the early 20th century.
Traveling to Beomeosa was significantly easier than other temples mentioned on my website. The Busan subway line 1 (Orange line) literally has a stop named "Beomeosa", and clear directions from exits 5 or 7 to a special bus (Green, #90), that goes to the entrance.
The actual front entrance of Beomeosa is completely paved for cars and only about 400 meters long. Despite these amenities and scores of Korean visitors, the atmosphere was much more subdued compared to other tourist sites like Headong Yonggungsa or Bulguksa. There were also small pieces of history along the trail instead of vendors and food stalls.
Engraved rock in front of burial grounds.
Engraved rock in front of flagpole support
The main path to Beomeosa entrance takes you through three gates and one large pavilion. Below is the information about each gate provided by displays.
"The one pillar gate, or mountain gate, is the first of a number of gates built at the entrance to a temple compound. The gate Jogyemun at Beomeosa Temple is renowned as a masterpiece in Korea with its unique style of supporting the roof with four stone pillars. The gate was called a one pillar gate because when viewed from the side it looks as if one pillar holds up the roof. The gate was first built by Venerable Myojeon in 1614, the 6th year of King Gwanghaefun of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 - 1910)"
"The Cheongwangmun (Guardian Kings Gate) is usually the second entryway into the temple compound. It enshrines the "Guardian Kings" of the four cardinal directions for the purpose of protecting Buddha-dharma; North - Vaisravana, South - Virudhaka, East - Dhrtarastra, and West - Virupaksa"
Guardian kings in the second gate. Names of the statues not known.
"The Burimun (Non-duality Gate), aka "Liberation Gate", is the last entrance gate to a temple. The term non-duality implies the Middle Way that transcends relative dualities: Being and non-being or birth and death are no different from each other. This gate was newly built during a massive reconstruction of the Bojeru Pavilion in 2012".
"The Bojeru Pavilion (Universal Salvation Pavilion) is the largest hall at Beomeosa Temple and most Dharma assemblies and Buddhist rituals are held here. The current pavilion was newly built through a massive reconstruction to restore traditional architecture in 2012"
Passing through the Bojeru Pavilion leads to the actual Temple grounds. The initial area is wide open, containing a stone lantern to the left and a three-story pagoda to the right. Around the left perimeter are halls where you can sign up for one of Beomeosa's famous temple stays. Around the right perimeter are actual Temple halls including a bell tower (with a small souvenir shop underneath), Mireukjeon Hall (Maitreya or future Buddha), and Birojeon Hall (Vairocana or all-seeing Buddha).
Three-story pagoda (right side of courtyard)
Stone lantern (left side of the courtyard)
Looking straight ahead, there are three sets of stairs leading to the Daeungjeon Hall housing the statue of the Sakyamuni Buddha and two observant Bodhisattva (past, present, and future). On this higher level are smaller halls such as the incense pavilion (far right), Gwanneumjeon Hall (Avalokitesvara or Bodhisattva of compassion, right of main hall), Ksitigarbha Hall (left of main hall), Mountain God Shrine (further left), and the combination of Palsangjeon Hall (Paintings of the eight great events from Shakyamuni Buddha's life), Dokseongjeon Hall (Ven. Naban shrine), and Nahanjeon Hall (Shakyamuni Buddha and 16 Nahans or holy disciples).
Beomeosa is always filled with people, so getting in position for pictures was kind of hard. I decided not to take that many pictures or videos of the inside of any Hall with people praying. You can check out the few pictures and videos I got at my website.
Beomeosa was definitely one of the best temples I've visited since being in Korea. Despite being so close to civilization and always filled with Korean tourists, Beomeosa maintains a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere. The wisteria fields and Geumjeong Mountain trails are also large enough to spend a whole day exploring. After the typhoon season, I plan to revisit Beomeosa to check out their Buddhist museum (currently closed for repairs and probably COVID-19) and walk to one of the many hermitages (settlement for Buddhists to live) for additional pictures.
Check out more pictures on the main pages of the website. Follow ag4abroad on Steller, Flickr, and Instagram for updates.
